Do I need a new chain

kindest

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So I had my bike on the center stand the other day and noticed that my chain rises significantly up at one point when I spun the wheel. This looked odd to me so I inspected more closely and noticed my rear sprocket was pretty tore up. The teeth were sharp visablly damaged. During my first newbie year of riding I was riding around with 1. chain way to lose and 2. my rear sprocket was loose.

I thought by replacing the rear sprocket which I just did would solve the problem but the chain still appears to rise and be tight in 1/2 of it and twice as loose in the other. The front sprocket looks perfect just like the rear now so I'm thinking it has to be the chain. Just want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious.

edit the chain looks fine I can't see anything visually wrong with it and I kept it lubed.
 
If the chain,sprockets or both are worn,it's better to replace the whole system with a kit.You can get any sprockets you want if you tell them when you order the kit. You can always save any parts that look salvageable. lha
 
Glad someone posted on chains because I was wondering...is it always good practice to change out sprockets and chains at the same time? Also...what do the numbers (520-530 ect.) signify when ordering chains? For instance, what is the difference between a 520-102L and a 530-102L (RK Taskasago) chain?
On a side note...(not to highjack but piggyback the thread), if a chain is thrown and wedges against the engine guard/engine, can it damage the transmission,sprockets, or other components?
 
ya if I order a new chain from ebay (still unsure if thats my problem) that says its meant for my year and model I don't need to cut it down it should be ready to rock.

I'm sure something CAN be damaged but if it was a fluke and quickly happened and was turned off right when it happened I would think chances it would be fine.
 
Sprockets and chains should always be changed at the same time. Old sprockets can quickly wear down a new chain and vice versa.

The numbers used in chain sizing are all in 5/8ths on an inch. The first number is the pitch (the spacing between the pin centres) and the other two are for the width of the chain.

The first number is the pitch, the spacing between pins.

4xx = 4/8" = 1/2" pitch
5xx = 5/8" pitch
6xx = 6/8" = 3/4" pitch

The 2nd number is the spacing between the plates, the chain width

x20 = 2/8" = 1/4"
x25 = 5/16" ( (2/8) + (0.5 or 1/2 of 1/8) = 2.5/8 = 5/16")
x30 = 3/8"

Therefore a 530 chain has a 5/8th inch pitch and a width of 3/8"

A 520 chain has a 5/8th inch pitch and a width of 1/4"
 
If you replace the chain and sprockets at the same time,You know that all the components are new. If the chain is replaced and the sprockets are not,the chain won't last long.Same on the sprockets,as they'll wear quickly. lha
 
you need a 530 chain. just buy any motorcycle 530 chain as they fit these to a lot larger capacity bikes, so is a bit of an overkill for us.

I have noticed the HD ones last longer and the O rings foul the engine cases due to the extra width.

I just get it with about 109 links and cut with angle grinder if too long.
 
I read somewhere that it is good practice to keep the sprockets with a prime number of teeth. Something to do with stopping the chain from hitting the same part of the sprocket repetitively, supposed to extend the life of the system quite a bit.
 
I read somewhere that it is good practice to keep the sprockets with a prime number of teeth. Something to do with stopping the chain from hitting the same part of the sprocket repetitively, supposed to extend the life of the system quite a bit.

its supposed to be one odd the other even. Its never really been proven/misproven
 
Look up Pobit on ebay,or google maybe. He has a vintage cycle store up north,michigan,I think.He sells good stuff at good prices. lha
 
hmm they do offer a 16 front 37 rear as well as a 17 front / 37 rear. Prime numbers or odd/even. We need Stephan Hawking's advice on this one.
I could see a problem if the relationship between the number of links on the chain and the number of teeth caused the same link to hit the same tooth more often than others. Or, where it was say 17/34 (front/rear) - meaning the chain would repeat exactly every second time. I don't see that happening with 17/37.

I recommend you think instead about whether you were happy with the revs in top gear at highway speeds. Now is the time to make the change if you had always wished they were lower.
 
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