First bike 1980 xs400 and I need some help

[Petew]

I would be inclined to say the same thing, except that I can replicate the situation repeatedly by switch the key position in the ignition lock switch. I don't know anymore about it than you, but it happens,and only since I replaced the key. Go figure...

...and hey, ...I'd take 3 seconds and give it a shot- I've looked foolish before and will again!

The lock mechanism doesn't seem to have electrical priperties. its just a cylinder with tumblers inside a bigger cylinder and the tumbler portion turns a seperate switch housing. Most common electrical problems are ground related. The wire insulators get hard and crack and sometimes they rub on the frame or cross other wires.. you couldve uncrossed a ground just by sitting on the bike.

That is entirely possible. I only know what it did, but I can't explain it .

 

[Petew]

I would be inclined to say the same thing, except that I can replicate the situation repeatedly by switch the key position in the ignition lock switch. I don't know anymore about it than you, but it happens,and only since I replaced the key. Go figure...

The lock mechanism doesn't seem to have electrical priperties. its just a cylinder with tumblers inside a bigger cylinder and the tumbler portion turns a seperate switch housing. Most common electrical problems are ground related. The wire insulators get hard and crack and sometimes they rub on the frame or cross other wires.. you couldve uncrossed a ground just by sitting on the bike.

I agree. It would seem that if one of the lock tumblers isn't being contacted properly, and is not depressing fully, the cylinder may not turn all the way to the necessary contact point. I draw a comparison to a valet key for an automobile, the key cuts are in the right places so as to allow the ignition and electrical function of the car but they are missing a cut or high spot that won't allow the valet to open your locked glove box etc. The ignition switch is a lock cylinder that turns a rotary switch with four individual contact points....possibly the switch wasn't being allowed to turn far enough( one of the cuts was not of proper height or depth.) to make necessary contact. I had another key made and haven't had the problem since.

 

[Ramonski2]

I feel like it would be a lot easier to trouble shoot if i could get the push start working. Someone said that the bars might not be grounded and the start button is grounded to the bars. So im thinking the easies thing to do is try just grounding the solenoid and if thats works it has to be the bar grounding. And if not its a bad solenoid. The one question i do have it how do i know what to stick where to ground it out.

 

[xschris]

The button grounds to the bars that grounds to the left side of the bars at the light/signal assembly. If your bars are painted or have a covering on them just sand them where those parts make contact to bare metal. Problem solved.

 

[Ramonski2]

Yes but i mean is there a way to just ground the solenoid itself to see if thats the problem before I go taking things off to sand.

 

[NewHavenMike]

Take a wire and run it to the switch from the battery. If i remember correctly, the starter is already grounded to the frame and it has a single lead wire off of it. I think with the solenoid you can just jump yhe two prongs on it with a screwdriver. The bike needs good grounds to function properly. The wires are hard and brittle at this point. Theres a couple of grounding wires in the headlight cup. I also cant remember if they were for lights or the harness.

 

[Ramonski2]

So if i can get it to start just without the buttons the best bet would be to run my own wires and not just ground to the bars but run it back as far as I can?