Float has pinholes - proper fuel level height - solder repair

[bochnak]

I initially set the float height per manual. I took it a step further and jammed clear tubing in the bowl drain and ran the tubing up. I filled with fuel and noted that the level settled roughly a couple mm below the mating point between bowl and carb body.

I now discovered that my floats have pinholes that will need to be soldered. Since I'll be adding weight of solder, I think the clear tubing method will the prefered method to get the right fuel height.

So, a few mm's below the parting line is good?

How many of you have been able to repair damaged floats?

I found this article useful:

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm

 

[drewpy]

use 2mm below "parting line" and take it from there.
raising level will richen the mix

lowering weaken

 

[bochnak]

use 2mm below "parting line" and take it from there.
raising level will richen the mix

lowering weaken

Will do, thanks drewpy.

 

[kirkn]

I have successfully soldered cracks/pinholes in brass floats a number of times.

I have an ancient gun-type soldering iron that works perfectly. I lightly (very gently) clean the float with, like, 600 grit sandpaper, then use a paste-type flux.

For me, using the gun to heat the float / melt the flux does a good job final-cleaning the brass, then ordinary solder like for electrical wiring work does just fine.

Sometimes you have to 'finesse' the solder / heat so as not to melt OTHER soldered joints in the float. And, sometimes the solder can cool too quickly and just re-crack. Kind of a finesse deal, but I've been successful in the past.

Good luck with it.

Kirk

 

[bochnak]

Just got finished up soldering the floats.

Couple of tips:

1. Have a cup of very hot hater & ice water handy. Hot water to test for leaks and ice water to cool the pontoon just before soldering. This will keep it from getting hot and expelling air out the hole you are trying to repair

2. Soldering iron, I used 680°F.

3. Flux, and lots of it!