from Two cylinders to only one, (Cause of the burning oil?)

[arfstrom]

All righty, I can't be long, I have class tomorrow. So today I was driving hard, over 65 mph, closer to 80 ish. My bike was running really good Then I slow'ed down and took a clover leaf from 94 WB, to 494 SB. (local guys will know) Then for now explain-able reason, (ok may be one, obviously) The left side stopped working, then it would periodically kick in, then it would be ineffective. Sounds included more popping noises, and stuff like that. When the occasion suite it, it would rev up to almost full power, then it would go back to periodic popping. Speed went from 80 mph, to max of 55, uphill 45 ish. So on the way home, I unplugged the left plug, so I wouldn't hear the attempt to throttle up, and stuff like that.

Something I have been suspecting, cause I spent a lot of time fairly recently securing all the oil leaks. and its still going though oil. SO I am burning alot of oil. perhaps 3/4 of quart of oil per fuel fill up. I know there is a lot of carbon on the hole in the exhaust. Then when It stopped 2 blocks from my house. I did notice alot of oil/fuel leaking form from the exhaust port. My first clue was that the oil was splashing on the motor guard, and my shoes were more slippery, then before I stretched out. So I walked the bike home.

So first thing I will test out is new plugs. Because I was driving up to 80mph, I dont suspect a carb issue. I suspect a ring issue. While the left plug was on, I was thinking a valve issue. Am I missing anything? btw the left muffler is shot.

 

[willem]

I had a similar thing a while back, no oil consumption but I did have all the rest. Riding at high speeds, one cylinder not firing and it progressively got worse, and actually ended up stalling all together (I was a little way from home so I had to keep going until it stopped). In the end it turned out that my inline fuel filter was full of gunk from my tank, which made the fuel flow to the carbs trickle slower and slower, until it finally stopped completely. Driving at 80 mph takes a lot of fuel, so it could still be that.

Regarding to your oil consumption, that's not good. You'll need to do a rebore and oversized pistons for that most likely, but at least new piston rings. But your old plugs can probably tell you a little more about your consumption I found this link recently which I think is quite nice. If you're consuming that much oil, it could be that your bike is running richer and richer because of the added oil to the mix. You could have drowned your one cylinder, which would explain the non firing. But then your shot muffler would cause the mix to be a bit leaner, so I personally don't expect that to be it.

The way to find out if it's a valve or a piston ring problem is by doing a compression test. One dry, one wet (put a little oil into the spark plug holes). If you have decent compression in both cases, the problem is not in your cylinder. If you have compression in a wet cylinder, but not in the dry one, your piston rings are bad. If you don't have compression in either case, it's likely your valves. Or your piston rings are so far gone that the little oil doesn't help seal it, but start with the valves.

oh and check if you have spark first, it might just be a no spark problem

 

[arfstrom]

That was weird, I went advanced, and added photos, and then Google chrome died on me. redoing my previous thoughts.

Okay here we go again,

 

[arfstrom]

Okay, so where I previously let off, I felt it was a valve issue, spark, or something like that on left side of engine. First thing I did was take some photos of everything. So I felt it had to do with Plug/Valve, or something on that side?

Oil leaking out of back of muffler, ewww

Oil leaking out of huge a@@ break in middle of muffler, (been there about a month, and a half.

Oil on fin's below the exhaust port

More than normal oil near tach port.

Spark plugs, Right, was white, looked good, if not a bit hot.

Left side, was coated in oil. last 20 miles home, I pulled the sparkplug boot off that plug.

The front valve cover didn't have a screw or nut there. The second one, (rear I probably didn't need a wrench to take it off.

That adjustment screw beat the cap off. you can see the beat down marks in the pics. and half the thread is still in the screw down space.

Soo, Dr.'s How screwed am I? Do I have to pull the engine out? anything else I should look for? I have the gaskets for that, just not the rings. I dont seem to think I need to order anything else? (bottom end should be fine True or False) Anything I am missing? (Muffler has been on my wish list at Amazon, with a new set of rear brakes, now a set of rings?)

Does anyone have experience with "2A2-11610-00-00 PISTON RING SET" Is that all 3 rings? should I wait till I mic the cylinder?

Okay last time I did the valve was last year about a year ago. It has been running great.

 

[16VGTIDave]

Looks like you may be in for a complete tear down. I'd suggest starting at the top of the engine and working your way down, until you have found all the missing parts. They are in there, somewhere. Your head gasket appears to be blown, based on the leakage.

Also check your ignition coil, running without the spark plug connected is a good way to fry the coil.

 

[arfstrom]

Looks like you may be in for a complete tear down. I'd suggest starting at the top of the engine and working your way down, until you have found all the missing parts. They are in there, somewhere. Your head gasket appears to be blown, based on the leakage.

Also check your ignition coil, running without the spark plug connected is a good way to fry the coil.

I think the gasket is all right, I guess I was previously worried about the rings, that I will probably pull the head off, and validate that. and replace the head gasket/the bottom one if there is one.

That is the best photo of the bunch. The Oil definitely been coming out the exhaust pipe. But I wont be upset if I am wrong, (been wrong before) Time to clean the garage, so I have a spot to work.

 

[drewpy]

I see there is no locknut on the adjuster and with no adjuster on the other, I'm not surprised it doesn't run!

those spark plugs are well past their best too.

I agree you need to do a top end rebuild and see how the valves stood up to the hammering.

first stop gasket set and cap, and adjusters.

 

[arfstrom]

those spark plugs are well past their best too.

first stop gasket set and cap, and adjusters.

I am sure the adjust are there, cant wait to see what type of damage they have. I have new plugs, just got em a week ago. Just waiting for me to take the time to see how rich my settings were be fore I just put em in. (Only a year old, Maybe less) I guess I waited toooo long!

 

[arfstrom]

Coil is testing bad. 13.77 ohm, for both primary, and secondary. Suppose to be, 4. Or 9. Ohm. With out the spark in place, maybe I saved something? With the nut floating in their, and all that.

 

[16VGTIDave]

Without a path to ground through the sparkplug, each spark made it's own - by burning through the insulation in the coil. Never operate a "modern" (mid '70's and newer) ignition system without a good path to ground for the secondary side, and that is usually the sparkplug...

 

[willem]

sucks to be you man...

I'd say you're in for at least a top end rebuild, but while you're at it you might want to inspect the bottom end as well. Why not do a complete rebuild?

but if you don't feel up to it, and your time is worth more than a few 100 bucks, you might consider getting a replacement top end or complete engine. It's a gamble though, since you might be buying someone else's broken or nearly-broken junk

good luck!

 

[xschris]

I would agree with finding another engine. At the least for parts that you will need. You might also want to get some mufflers

 

[arfstrom]

Okay, so tomorrow I can start taking the top off. Muffler, brakes are the wish list. I am going to take the head up to my local Yamaha dealer, and have them measure the inside diameter. See whats they say.

 

[arfstrom]

Good news, I found everything. 2 nuts, and a screw.

I am heading off too work now, If someone has a link about those stubborn Acorn nuts. I am open for suggestions. (i haven't had a chance to search yet, after work)

Anyone has an idea if the guide is still good? the top of the 90 degree bend is showing metal, Pic coming

The tension thing ontop, the box end, isn't square is that an issue? Pic coming.
Thanks in advance

 

[xschris]

This is what they should look like. These where off a motor with 12k miles on it. If you want them I can sell them to you.

 

[arfstrom]

Soo that right angle isn't natural? Oh wow, what the How much are you looking for those items? you got a pair of coils your willing to sell as well?
TA

 

[xschris]

Sorry no coils at this time. I can sell you that stuff for $37 shipped paypal only

 

[arfstrom]

PM sent, for the Paypal addy

 

[xschris]

Pics of the cap and rod you wanted

 

[arfstrom]

Cool Beans!!!!