anonymosaurus_rXS400

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hey guys, in need of some advice. bike is stalling while idling; have messed with idle screw in between carbs but bike is still getting hung at high rpm's when revved. could be loose throttle cable?
additionally, i noticed my engine seems to have a large gap where I believe there should be a seal. notice in the third pic how i can fit my key into it. am i correct in thinking this is/could be part of the issue? thanks in advance.
 

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That gap is fine. Check your points gaps and timing.

Also, try disconnecting the throttle cable to make sure it moves freely. Might as well lube it up some.

Then make sure that the throttle on the carb returns all the way.

Then look for vacuum leaks around the rubber parts.
 
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That gap is fine. Check your points gaps and timing.

Also, try disconnecting the throttle cable to make sure it moves freely. Might as well lube it up some.

Then make sure that the throttle on the carb returns all the way.

Then look for vacuum leaks around the rubber parts.

Thanks mike.
After adjusting the two mixture screws on carbs back to factory setting and furthermore, playing with idle screw and throttle cable she's sitting at about 1.5-2 rpm's during idle. although the hanging rpm issue has gotten better, when revved to 6 or 7 there is a quick and seemingly normal drop-off until about 3 rpm when she gets hung up and takes about 2-3 seconds to come back down below 2. additionally, while idling and rocking bike side to side, idle rpm fluctuates up and down. will be removing throttle cable and adjusting some free-play out of throttle; going to lube her up and explore better options for routing cable back to throttle as well. any other issues I should be looking/preparing for?
 
The bike should not be running when you adjust the mixture screws. Take them out and make sure the tips are still intact. Some people over-tighten them and the tip breaks off inside the carb. At this point, Id remove the carbs and clean them and make sure the floats are within spec. If/when you adjust the float height, if the floats compress the needle spring even a tiny bit, the needle and seat should be replaced. Even if i got the bike running decently, id probably still order rebuild kits and have them ready.
 
Tips are intact; turns out the mixture screws were pretty out of whack. Reset them to factory settings and bike is now idling properly with much less hand in high RPM's after revving. still not perfect.
flash forward a week or so and now i've run into a separate issue; bike won't start at all. it has been pretty cold here and I'm thinking (hoping) my battery is the cause. it is kick start only but going to use Xmas money to buy new solenoid and hopefully that will help. probably going to have to buy a new battery; this one seems pretty old.
 
Thought solenoids were only for starters? If you have jumper cables you can run them from your bike battery to a car battery and see if it will start. Or you can test the voltage first. If you have no idea of the batteries age, I wouldn't depend on it.
 
Battery's age is questionable; upon further inspection, acid inside of battery is right at/almost below the "low line" marker. That coupled with dim headlights while trying to kickstart leads me to believe my battery is old.
Solenoids are for starters and wouldn't help much if my battery is toast, but i'd like to have the option of push-button starting.
 
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