Introduction and Cafe build log

[226dark]

The mufflers are pretty rotted out, and i'm not a big fan of the megaphone look anyway, so i've been looking for replacements. I don't need a performance exhaust, or need to boost HP or anything, ( I have my SV1k for my speed fix) This is going to be a daily rider. So anyway, I'm leaning towards these: EMGO CHROME PLATED REPLACEMENT MUFFLERS Anyone have any experience to share?

Mark

Ah, but they might want to hear you arriving! That was how it was when my dad pulled up in his purple 70 Cuda, HA! I just put Emgos on and only 1.7 miles on them so the verdict is not in but already it seems they lightly scuff and swirl-mark easily. Other than that very happy for what i paid for. The ones I got are reverse cone Dunstall replicas like here http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/emgo-slip-on-muffler-dunstall-replica-reverse-cone-black-bracket-chrome-universal/part/EMGO-80-84051

The ones you're looking at, here on a small twin cyl, 250 Honda rebel. Didn't read much of the comments after that video - maybe comments will be helpful or maybe not.

Did you use a coat or 3 of clear on the frame?
Coming along nicely and at that rate you'll be ready for the riding season. Get some good rain gear and ride all year i would say

 

[RevrdMark]

I was just reading through the threads about exhausts and i see a lot about re-jetting the carbs with an aftermarket exhaust. It seems that with the added flow (or lack of restriction) that the jets need to be bigger to increase the fuel in the mixture. I have a couple questions, first of all i realize that is a trial and error kinda thing, but i have never rejetted carbs before and don't even know where you would get bigger jets for the carbs? Second, can the same thing be accomplished by turning the idle screw out another half turn or lowering the floats a little?

 

[OleDoc]

looking good

 

[RevrdMark]

Well, i started a little project to try my hand at fiberglass. I got some side panels for cheep but they were for the wrong model and the tabs don't line up so i figured i would just make a copy out of fiberglass and put the tabs where ever i want. anyway we'll see how it goes.

This is just the first layer, two or so more to go.

 

[RevrdMark]

Well took the fiberglass off the mold this morning and it looks pretty...ok I think i made some rookie mistakes like using too much resin. The instructions said it should cure in 90 mins. Mine took considerably longer than that. I'll need to do some sanding and trimming, but I think after some elbow grease primer and paint it will be acceptable

 

[steeze]

Once you knock off all the high points go over the piece with body filler like bondo... You'll never get a smooth finish with glass... you gotta coat it with body filler. It'll come out nice...

 

[RevrdMark]

Thanks for the body filler tip Steeze.

I have a question about the fiberglass cloth that maybe someone here can answer. I understand the idea that the resin saturates the fibers and then hardens, is there something special about the cloth? The package says it is woven polyester. if i were to use, say an old bed sheet that i use as a drop cloth, as the base layer would that work just the same? Or would the cotton fibers not work as well? Just wondering.

 

[OleDoc]

not sure on that.i hjave never seen anyone use anything other then the fiberglass cloth,so there is probally a reason for that.

 

[226dark]

I was just reading through the threads about exhausts and i see a lot about re-jetting the carbs with an aftermarket exhaust. It seems that with the added flow (or lack of restriction) that the jets need to be bigger to increase the fuel in the mixture. I have a couple questions, first of all i realize that is a trial and error kinda thing, but i have never rejetted carbs before and don't even know where you would get bigger jets for the carbs? Second, can the same thing be accomplished by turning the idle screw out another half turn or lowering the floats a little?

Not sure but I would start with stock sized mains, maybe depends on the mufflers. There's this link I had bookmarked http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Motorcycle_Carburetor_Jetting__W7.cfm
But i'd say Hough, Drewp, Chris, BC and the rest can offer some sound advice on that

 

[drewpy]

lowering floats will help to a certain degree, but consider that fine tuning.

really need to get the main/pilot jet sorted and tweek from there.

do a search as there are links how to set it up.

I've used a NOS dohc carb and persevered getting it nearly right, just need to get on a rolling road to get final figures.

 

[RevrdMark]

Well spent the afternoon with my son working on the engine today. He found out why his old man cleans his bike after long rides. I had him cleaning out 30+ years of chain lube and gunk from the back side of a clutch cover while i took a wire brush and degreaser to the fins to clean up after a leaky head gasket.

Took the head off and replaced the gaskets, and I'm crossing my fingers that i reinstalled the timing chain and cams correctly. I'd rather not pull the engine and do it over if i can help it. ::::crossing my fingers:::

Also finished de-rusting the new-to-me tank that arrived this week. Three days of electrolysis has it looking good. there was alot of rust and gunk in there. This is the anode after day three, and that is after taking it out each morning and sanding it clean.

Next is cleaning the carbs. I drained the bowls last week and it looked like someone put florescent yellow Gatoraid in them. I'm sure i'll find lots of varnish and gunk in there. I might attempt to get her fired up tomorrow depending on my progress.

 

[226dark]

Well spent the afternoon with my son working on the engine today. He found out why his old man cleans his bike after long rides. I had him cleaning out 30+ years of chain lube and gunk from the back side of a clutch cover while i took a wire brush and degreaser to the fins to clean up after a leaky head gasket.

Took the head off and replaced the gaskets, and I'm crossing my fingers that i reinstalled the timing chain and cams correctly. I'd rather not pull the engine and do it over if i can help it. ::::crossing my fingers:::

It seems I've rarely seen a non-restored one for sale without the leaky head gasket.

With the timing chain I seemed to not get it right the first time and took it apart as I had too much slack at the front and the tensioner (at back) would push it out of wack. So then after a re-try on that it seemed I could have gotten it one link closer to less slack in the front. And back together it was exactly that. The points adjusted, Left first, Then right points had to be all the way to the right (to the stop) to be close and still not there. I considered filing or something, the groove so I could get the right to move just a smidge more. Instead I gapped the left slightly more and was able to get the right on the 10 degree RF mark and than's not the right way either.

I am rebuilding the top end again and third time will be a charm (I hope). This time taking advice to slow down. And also using a torque wrench, HA. Waiting on a tach cable seal in the mail, a second reason for the do-over.

With the timing chain I might try getting the chain on, tight at front, but with rotor sitting on just before the TDC mark (crankshaft clockwise) and when the extreme tension from cam chain tensioner pushes and takes any slack out from in front of cam chain sprocket it will rotate the camshaft slightly toward the back, lining it right up, and I won't have the issue of the points being maxed to the stop and still not be on.
Maybe.

 

[RevrdMark]

Starting to think about how I am going to paint up the project when I'm done, I'm not usually a fan of "yamaha yellow" but i do like the "film strip stripe". I came across this picture of an xs 500 i liked that i am leaning towards

 

[drewpy]

they are called Yamaha speed blocks

 

[RevrdMark]

they are called Yamaha speed blocks

Well for a 30+ year old 400 cc bike with toothpick forks and skinny tires i use the word "speed" loosely in any description.

 

[RevrdMark]

Well came home from church last night and figured I'd spend an hour or so cracking into the carbs. Once i got the Phillips head screws broke free w/o stripping them (grrr not sure if it was just 30 years in the same place or if some factory tech in Japan put all his weight into it but they didn't want to budge. Thank God for penetrating oil!) I was surprised that they were very clean inside even though the fuel that came out of them looked like florescent gatorade. So got everything taken out blasted it with carb cleaner so i could see light through all the holes in the jets, got it all re-assembled, and everything moves and slides smooth. (Didn't have any washers or screws left over so i must have done it right.)

I need to go get some fuel line, the old ones are all rotted out, and a filter, then might try to get the engine back in the frame tonight, hook the battery, carbs and fuel lines up and see if she will fire!

 

[RevrdMark]

I hooked up the break lines and throttle cable and routed the clutch cable. Anyway, since i switched over to the clubman style bars rather than the old stock elk antler bars, the front brake line especially is a bit long and I have to put a pretty drastic bend in it to make it fit. I guess I will head down to the local salvage yard and see if they have a shorter line that wont cost me an arm and a leg, unless anyone knows of a switch from another stock bike part that i might find on Ebay cheep that will be shorter? Also my throttle cable is a bit long now too but i think i can find a few places to add a curve or two to take up the slack. I haven't connected the clutch cable but i might need to get a little creative with that routing as well. Wish me luck

 

[RevrdMark]

BTW - I tried the cotton sheet for fiberglass fabric just to see what would happen. I was a little surprised at the out come. I expected it to be very thin and very brittle but instead it was not brittle at all, in fact it was very pliable and "bendy" and never really got ridged even after drying for 2 days. I thought at first my resin wasn't mixed with the right amount of hardener but the glass fabric i used with the same resin was hard and normal. Well live and learn

 

[xschris]

BTW - Well live and learn

As in life

 

[RevrdMark]

Ok ------ i need some advise -----

So i got a can of started fluid, got the fuel lines hooked up fuel in the bowls connect the started motor crank it till the battery goes dead and nothin....

Pull out the 30 year old spark plugs and they are wet, take some sand paper and get the ends clean and shiney put them back in after recharging battery engage the starter and get a pop or two but nothing consistent...

Run up to the auto parts store and get two brand new plugs ( and two at the heat range above just in case and they were 40% off) come back hook it all up and i get it to fire but a very slow chug chug fire and only after hooking the starter motor up to an external power source as to not kill the battery. If i open the choke, turn the throttle a little bit, stand on one foot and close one eye i could keep it idling but very slow and if i touched any control it would die.

Here is the question that i need advise on. When i replaced the head gasket I am afraid that i may have replaced the cam in a 180 degree wrong position (meaning the lobes were up when they are supposed to be down or visa versa). I'd rather not take the cam cover off and redo it if its not wrong. So would the engine fire at all if the cam was in a 180 degree wrong sync? or would there be enough residual fuel in the head to get it to fire albeit roughly when the plug fired?

I have cleaned the carbs, set the idle jets at 3 1/2 turns checked the plugs with a spark tester and get a nice blue spark so my fear is that its the timing of the cams, any advise would be appreciated. Thanks in advance guys!