New chain/sprockets on DOHC

doodsaibot

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I have researched the forum as to what chain I need. Before I pull the trigger on buying the chain, however, I am curious, how many links are needed? The manual indicates I need 102 links on a 50 HDSS chain (which I found through reading in this forum is a 530 chain) but I am lost on the number of links since the manual is for the 6 speed SECA and not the 5 speed Maxim. I read that if the chain is too long, I would need to grind off a few links but I simply don't have those types of tools right now:redface:. I just need a simple swap before I put a couple hundred miles on her this weekend.:bike: Thanks.
 
I can't say for certain as it has been years since I could run a stock chain, but I believe that with stock gears you will need 100 links on your Maxim. The Seca has a larger rear sprocket and needs a couple more links as a result.
 
I believe you are right. I found a website that sells parts for vintage bikes as well as newer ones called motorcyclesuperstore.com Their recommendation for the stock 83 maxim is a 530 chain and 100 links. DID brand. I will be getting the JT sprockets as well.
 
Good choice on the sprockets. What chain are you going to get? I paid the price for a premium EK SRX chain and haven't had any issues with it. There is also a nifty master link that only requires a wrench to set it. It didn't stretch much when new, and hasn't changed since then. Other than a little rust from winter riding and road salt, it might as well be new. Despite the dust, dirt, mud and water it has been subjected to. A good investment going on 3 years and 24,000 km. Constant oiling probably doesn't hurt either. ;)
 
That does sound like a good investment. As much as I would like one of those nice o-ring chains, I am on a tight budget right now. I am going with the DID standard chain, made in Japan.

The one I have right now is the original, 33 year old chain from the factory and could probably go a few more trips but I don't see the need to push it. I keep it lubed but I suppose after that many years and close to 10,000 miles it has had its fill.
 
Nothing wrong with a DID chain. Just keep it lubed and it will serve you well. That, and don't over tighten it. Loose is better than tight. A slappy chain is a happy chain! [emoji6]
 
Well, I got the new DID chain and JT sprockets on without any problems and everything is lubed up. Rode it around the lot and it's all good except my rear brake does not work :doh:. The rear brake pedal presses further down than normal and does not engage the rear brake. From the outside, everything is reconnected and bolted back on. Is their something with the drum internally that came disconnected? I ran out of daylight and so I will have to re-check tomorrow. More than likely have to take the rear wheel back off. I looked through the manual for hints and couldn't find anything. What should I look for?
 
Other than the external adjustment, I can't think of anything. The rear brakes are simple enough that it is difficult to get them wrong. I'd suggest giving it a good look over in the morning. Chances are good that it is a simple mistake, like not tightening the adjusting nut enough.
 
Well I gave it a look over and I am still completely stumped. I messed with the adjusting nut and I'm still not getting any results.:er: I'm going to read through the manual again.
 
I got some braking results from the adjusting nut but only with it turned completely in and the spring almost completely compressed.but the brake pedal still seems to be depressing several inches further than it should be. I never removed the brake pedal nor did I adjust it in any way before hand.
 

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Ok got if figured out. the brake rod attaches to that arm which attaches to the shoe plate; The arm needed to be rotated forward slightly before tightening it down as to not give the brake pedal so much extra room to depress.
 
Just rode 100 miles today through the hill country with some friends. The new chain/sprockets worked just as they should. Before we left, I picked up a new can of lube called White Lithium Grease. It doesn't seem as clumpy as the Champion Chain Grease I used before and it leaves a nice thin film. After watching one of bcware's videos a while back on chain tension, I took his advice and replaced the cotter pin on the rear wheel axle nut with a solid hitch pin so I can re-use it rather than buying new cotter pins.
 
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