New guy and new to Yamahas and looking for parts.

FlyingAnvil

XS400 Addict
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Hi everyone, my name is Keith and I just bought a 79 xs400 yesterday for $400 bucks and rode it home (about 13 miles). Has a super high idle around 3500 rpm to 4000 rpm. Tried to adjust that but I firmly believe it needs carb service. Since the electric starter is not working, it is a bugger to kick start and that's only when it starts. Next I went to adjust the rear brake and that was super easy till it locked up and sounds like there is a broken shoe in there. Next it looks like it will need new sprockets and a chain soon. On the good foot I got the horn and indicators working. Already learning lots about these little monsters on here.
Where is the best place to get parts for these things in or around the great North West? Do y'all buy online or dealer? I just want to get it up and running before I make this thing my own. Thanks everyone.
 

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Welcome! I have always bought online. I have used Z1 enterprises, Parts-N-More, Mikes XS and eBay. Old Bike Barn and Bike Bandit are other options.

Your bike may have been manufactured in '79, but with the higher stepped seat and 16" alloy with drum brake rear wheel, it looks more like an '80 or later model (XS400 G). Knowing this will be important for ordering parts.

As for the carbs, sounds like they need to be removed and cleaned really, really well. It may take more than one cleaning. All those passages in there have to be surgically clean to get it to idle and not stumble just off idle. I mean clean. There are plenty of posts around here about carb cleaning. Once the carbs are truly clean, it will kick start mus easier. I have a '79 (XS400 F) and it takes no more than 2 kicks to start.
 
Thanks HoughMade you really seam to know what's up. Here's a bummer looked at the vin to get an idea for parts and my registration says 2V6 00XXX and all the numbers on the bike say 3F9 00XXXX. I called the guy I bought it from and he said he bought it in 06 and had know idea about all of that, he is a little slow. Now I guess I got to go to the state patrol. I put it in my name already with the guy there at the dmv. The regi says it's a 79, but the bike numbers show it would be an 80 xs400sg now what the heck? I can't order anything till I get this sorted out I guess..
 
O and yes it does have a 16" inch rear wheel with drum brake (that is locked up, suspecting broken shoe). Don't really want to take a wrench to it till I figure out this paperwork mess...
 
Well, I think you can be pretty sure it's an '80 XS400 SG as far as ordering parts. The "3F9" fits. There is always some overlap in model years and some states register the year of a vehicle as when it was first sold no matter what model year it is. You can buy 2012 model year new cars right now and some states will call them 2011s on the title if sold this year.

That's not a big deal. XS400Fs which are the "real" '79s have 18" wheels front and back with the alloys having a disk rear wheel. Also, the XS400 Fs have a points ignition. I bet yours is electronic which would make it an '80 model year no matter what the title says.

Just so you know, I have a bit of an idea what I am talking about as I used to run a small car dealership years ago before law school and I've been a lawyer for 13 years....in addition to an XS400 nut.

In sum, if your ignition is electronic, it all fits and you can be pretty sure you have an XS400 SG- who cares what the title says?
 
O I thinks it's an 80 because it does have electronic ignition (yea, one less thing to upgrade) and it has the 3F9 all over it, but why an earlier title? Possibly an early 80 that was sold in November or December of 79? I don't know, going back to the licensing agent to find out. Part of me thinks to hell with it, it's just an old beater bike, but I can't be having any part of being in possession of stolen property either.
 
What brand carbs? If they are Keihin, on top of each carb is an air mixture screw. As per EPA specs, the screws were set lean to 1.5 turns out. Increase this to 3-3.5 turns out.

From the factory there was a plug on top of each screw so we mere surfs couldn't mess with the adjustment. This plug can be carefully drilled out to access the screw.

In addition, there is a VERY SMALL o-ring at the bottom of each air mix screw. The rubber ages and deteriorates and needs to be replaced or you will have idle and, maybe, mid-range performance problems. A new set of air mix screws and o-rings for the Keihin can can be bought from mikesxs.com
 
Well the lady at the dmv said it was not stolen and if I wanted to mess with the hassle to make an appt with the state patrol and they are booked out 8 weeks right now.
It has Mikuni carbs and I have 4 spares that I bought at a swap meet about 4 months back and they look to be the same number. They need a good cleaning, but I like them that's what I have on my ol 82 GPz750 and it goes like poo off a shovel.
The cycle barn up the road had the rear brake parts in stock so I went up and grabbed some new shoes and put those on and cleaned and polished and repainted some stuff. Man what an easy little bike to work on, one of the easiest rear brake jobs ever. They did not have any carb kits but I will start with a quick clean. Painted the rear wheel semi flat black and it looks a bit beefier and a bit more aggressive. The bearings appeared to look new and felt good.
Electrical, charging the battery and in need of a flasher I believe and that should fix the indicators. As far as the E-start there is the clicking at the solenoid and it has magnetic flow as when it clicks it will magnetize a wrench. One of the terminal has no wire going to it and there has been people in there before and it has a 20 amp fuse installed and I don't know why.
I need to figure out why the oil light is on, I hope a sending unit or maybe it's unplugged I just don't know where it is yet.
I found the locking steering pin and my key switch only has one bolt in it so when I find a bolt the right size that will be in working order.
Thanks everyone for the knowledge and inspiration.
 

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there is supposed to be a 20 amp fuse and 3 x 10amp fuses in there!
no wire could go to starter motor or positive side of the battery (its a short thick red wire with eyed ends)
 
I can see better now.

looks like you have that short wire to the battery, so you need the starter lead, or is that there behind the short lead?

fuses are a mess, but there is a How to somewhere to put new fuse box in with modern gear.

please don't use pre-insulated connectors, they are for cars and accessories not motorcycles. get a crimper and the proper jap spades!
 
I can see better now.

looks like you have that short wire to the battery, so you need the starter lead, or is that there behind the short lead?

fuses are a mess, but there is a How to somewhere to put new fuse box in with modern gear.

please don't use pre-insulated connectors, they are for cars and accessories not motorcycles. get a crimper and the proper jap spades!


I prefer crimping, soldering and heat shrink...but I'm like that.
 
I seen a thread with one where a guy used a "fisherman's friend" lozenge box. Kind of clever. Mine seem to all be good working order except the starter part. Going to post a electric thread to see if I can get some more action.
 
Your vin code matches my 1980 xs400 sg if that's any help to you at all. It looks like mine too. Id be willing to wager its prolly an 80 xs and may have a 79 frame for legal purposes. Check your frame vin n see if it matches your engine vin. It probably doesn't. Engine swaps are common with these ol bikes.
 
I need to figure out why the oil light is on, I hope a sending unit or maybe it's unplugged I just don't know where it is yet.

The oil light goes on with main power (no pressure if engine isn't running) and will go off when you run it. If it is on while running and the bike's not slagged yet then the oil switch probably failed, since it is normally grounded (on).

....and thats just for your hair styling :laugh:
I like HoughMade's styling! That last thing you want is the rain messing up your hair on a ride. :thumbsup:
 
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