New Starter solenoid CLICK,CLICK,CLICK!!!

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SlickRick

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Hi guys, need more brain power from the XS400 super group.

Had it down to the starter solenoid for the problem. Old one weak clicks, tap it starts up.
Did that several times and the clicks got worse. Good battery. Put in a new starter solenoid and all I got was very strong Clicks! Could it be a bad or wrong solenoid? Bought from EMS Global Direct #31-5975 B42149. Name: Yamaha Timberwolf Breeze Warrior TTR Starter Solenoid. Said in a long list at the bottom it XS 400 among other CC,s. Hope you can at least get me to the correct one. XS400SJ 14V "82".

Thank You :confused:
 
The click means it's good, and unless it is too small there isn't such a thing as a wrong solenoid. Usually starter issues are simply a bad ground, so you should jump the starter directly if you want to rule that out.
 
Hi, It dose look smaller than the original, that's why I mentioned it being the wrong one and gave the info on it. Another thing, when I put the new solenoid on my battery went from good to overcharged. Tomorrow I will check fuses, grounds, wires and kick starter. How do I jump the solenoid to the battery? Should I check starter?

Thanks for the quick response.
 
That is the same one that's on my bike, so no worries about it being too small. Lead-acid batteries will have a voltage around 12.6V when they are in good shape, and will get to as much as 13.1V after being fully charged. If the voltage on the battery went up after removing the old solenoid, then it was draining the battery and you should charge it back up when you get half a chance.

What you want to do to check the starter is pull off the cover and clip a jumper cable to the case of the starter motor, and the other end to the ground of a known good battery. then touch the positive cable (connects the starter to the solenoid) to the the positive terminal of the battery. If it doesn't get the starter spinning, move the jumper somewhere else and try again. If you still get nothing then you'll need to service the starter. More often than not, it turns out to be a poor ground though. Good luck!
 
Thanks, at least I can eliminate the wrong one. It is about 7:00 am here in Wisconsin and after my coffee I will be heading off to the garage and start going through everything possible on it.

I'll let you know the outcome tonight.
Thank for your help, you guys are really super helping out mechanic jrs.
Happy rides SlickRick
 
Hello, reporting back as promised.

Ok, went to check on the bike. First the fuses, ok. Kick start ok. Checked for grounds, ect. I did put in a new key switch, maybe a short there. Battery got to weak now for anything, checked no water in most of the battery, so filled that up. Starter flying colors. One thing I found was the wiring on the solenoid (red/white,blue/white was put in opposite of mine. So I had to plug it in backwards for now to keep the colors correct. Put charger on battery and it is now charging up. Will find out tomorow if battery took a charge and will start bike. Still may have to dig deeper if the Click, Click, Click continues.

On another matter. I Made a manometer today, used ATF in the tube. When I get my bike running again I will use it. I hope I can get it tuned fast enough to keep the ATF from being sucked in. I also want to note that my pilot screws have the "anti-tamper caps" missing, sooo I would like to "tamper" with them. Do you know how I can do this along with syncing the carbs.

Ok, Hope all goes well tomorrow. Let me know what you think on the report. Thanks
:bike:
 
I had a very similar Click,Click,Click issue with mine earlier this year. Went through everything (wires, grounds, fuses, battery)...nothing. Bought a new solenoid and a sealed battery (was going to change anyway)...nothing. Finally, checked the starter. Brushes were toast and had a bad sooty burnt smell. I dropped the original starter and broke a couple teeth off the gear.... Bought a used starter on here and she started right up. Sooooooooo , long story short, mine was just the starter needing to be serviced/replaced.

Oh, also, the Mitsuba SM-7 (i think that's the starter model) has been replaced with the YS-7. Threw me for a loop when looking for parts. Hope this helps you get yourself up and running soon.
 
You can have a bad battery that will show good voltage under no load, but will drop way down under load. Of all the times I've ever heard a solenoid go click click click, it's always been the battery. I would use jumper cables on another good battery just to quickly rule the battery out.

As far as your mixture screws go, I would turn them in until they gently seat and count the turns as you go, then turn them both out equally the same number of turns. Should be about 1-1/2 but could be as low as 3/4 or as high as 3. After you've done that, sync your carbs. Finding the perfect fuel screw setting is a topic for a thread of it's own.
 
Hi guys.

Results from today:
As of last night I had on overcharged battery, very weak, no waterT. Look closely again at everything I could think of. Well I checked on the connections of the battery charger. The positive was good but found the negative not making a connection. Fixed that and let it charge overnight. This morning went out to the garage unhooked the charger cables, turned the ignition key on and pushed the starter button. BANG-she started right up again and again.

Thanks for the great help and information. :bike:

Next: I will sync and tune the carbs. Also would like to adjust the valve clearances on the intake & exhaust. Any good info on this procedure? Hayes is not the best in accurate info. :confused::confused

PS: It's to bad we can't have a bikers convention to meet everybody.
Like the ones HOT ROD magazine puts on every year, it's great!!

HAPPY RIDING EVERYBODY :bike:
 
Hi,

The air/fuel pilot screws I have was turned out to 8 1/2 - 9 12. I not sue I have any springs either. I am going to pull them out to see if they have springs and the condition of the points (if any). I need to sync the carbs also. Are those turnouts readinds I had ok? Stock everything. Plugs are carbon coated.
Appreciate any help on these "tamper proof screws.

Thank You
 
No, you want to be between 3/4 and 3 turns out. Usually around 1-1/2 to 2. Pull them out and make sue you have the spring, washer, and o-ring under the washer. The are tiny and hard to get out. I use a needle with a bent tip.
 
Hi Travis,
Had pulled out the jets and found them to be ok, except for one washer which I think fell off. I will have to look for it or it is still inside the needle hole. Any how I have them set at around 4 turns out approx.,fine tuned them a bit. This was with the air filters on. I took them off to check on some popping noise from inside them, found the rubber air intakes to have a bit of gas in them. It seemed to settle down and had power, maybe not at 100%. I did notice the increase of rpms when I covered my had over the left side of the carb intake and no difference on the right. I thought now it was close enough to do a manometer adjustment on it. Got that setup and started the engine and whoosh the ATF went flying up toward the left carb, killed switched it. So this is where I am now. Tomorrow will be getting the ATF even on both sides again. But not sure from that point on what to do in what order. If you can help I would appreciate it.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
Start with that washer. Without it, you may have an air leak there and anything else you do with the carbs will probably be wasted effort. Carbs are very finicky. Everything has to be perfectly clean, sealed, adjusted, etc for everything to work like it should. If you can completely block the intake of one carb and not notice a difference, then it's not running on that cylinder. You probably need to pull the carbs and really clean them and give them a once over. Ultrasonic cleaning is great if you know someone with one.

Maybe we should put this carbs stuff in a new thread and start from the top.
 
I'm trying to jump my starter because I've bought 2 starter solenoids and I'm still not getting a click from them. Can someone be more discriptive on how to do this with the jumper cables? Do you connect the negative jumper to a known ground and the positive to the case or the other way around? I touched the starter motor cable to the positive of the battery and hear a small sound but nothing big enough to turn the motor
 
Ground the motor and positive goes to the cable the attaches to the starter.
 
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