Re-honing cylinder advice?

member11511

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I am preparing to rehone my xs400. The cylinders are super smooth with viritally no cross hatch pattern left. I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with rehoning. I'm not looking I increase the bore, just simply get it back to factory standard. Any advice would be appreciated. Right now I'm looking at getting a ball hone and doing it this weekend, but maybe a 3 prong stone gone would be better. Also is 10 seconds about enough time to spend on each cylinder?
 
I'd get out a set of inside mics and check your tolerances first. If you are out of spec, you will need to bore to the next size over and rebuild the top end. Unless you are re-sleeving, you'll never make it back to factory standard. Honing and boring take material away, so the best you can get (assuming your bike has never been re-bored) is honing to something within the acceptable tolerances. If you simply feel like you should get that cross hatch back and are magically not out of spec, you are lucky, but should probably throw some fresh rings in at the least.
 
Thanks for the reply. My xs miraculously only has 5000 orginal miles, so I don't think it needs to be re bored. But I'll check the tolerance. And I g a
New set of piston rings.
 
I've got the correct size flex hone if you'd like to take it off my hands... No sense in paying full price for something you'll only use for 5 minutes.
 
I used a 3 arm stone. Used motor oil to lubricate it. Remember that the tool has a spring setting so you can set it to different pressures. Don't set it too high (meaning that the stones really want to push out and exert more pressure on the wall)

Use it in a cordless drill. Oil the cylinder all up and the stones as well.

Squeeze the stones and fit them in the top of the cylinder. Don't spin the stones too fast or move your drill in and out too fast. Try to imagine a speed in your head of both the stones spinning in the cylinder and moving up and down that will give you the 45* hatch that you want, then try to emulate that. You want a medium speed.

Don't stop moving the stones inside the cylinder. When you want to remove them keep the drill spinning and as your moving up and down the cylinder with the drill just pull out of the cylinder. Wipe off the dirty oil and check your work. If you don't get the results you want try again and re-lube.

While you don't want to do this too much you would have to do this for a long time to remove enough material to mess up the bore size. Do a little, check, then do more if needed.

Really really really clean the cylinder after you're done to remove any traces of the stone grit in the walls.
 
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