Rust

[robindean]

Two years ago, when I bought my bike, wow ... clean!

Then, last summer, I saw a bit of rust towards the bottom of the frame. It was easy access, so I simply sanded it down and smathered a bit of Rustoleum satin-black on there (which works wonders, by the way).

Now, I'm seeing a little bit of frame rust near the engine mounts. This got me thinking that the frame might be rusting elsewhere also.

Three questions, one post:

I've never removed my engine. How tedious is said process for the Seca?

Also, if I want access to the entire frame for an investigation into rust, without having to completely disassemble the bike, what steps should I take?

Basically, if I want to access the entire frame without having to spend months (remove, check, paint if necessary, put back, ride) ... what suggestions do you veterans have?

 

[Flexeril]

I do not own a Seca, but it is easy IMO....at least on my 1980...

Good luck!

 

[robindean]

Thanks for the comment and moral support.

Now, onto more in the way of details, suggestions and conversation ...

Contribute as you see fit.

 

[Flexeril]

No problem,

Your best bet is to take it all apart (if you are up to it...) take it to a painter and have them dip it in Evaporust. My painter did this. Spray some WD40 inside of the tube frame....

See if you can get a scope thing that plumbers use and you could also gain some viewing access that way.


Keep us posted. Good luck.

 

[bentwrench]

Removing the engine is really, really easy.

First, remove the seat, tank, carbs, tach cable, chain, spark plug boots, and the three wires at the back that go to various electrical components. Now all you have left are six bolts at the top, and two at the side. Place a jack under your bike (include a piece of wood if you're really worried about damaging your newly polished aluminum), and remove the top two bolts. Then, remove the next four at the top (two per side) that allow you to remove the chrome engine hangars. Next, the top of the two side bolts, and then use your jack to slowly pivot your engine downwards. Make sure everything is free and clear.

Now, time for some muscle. Lift the engine enough to get the jack out of the way. The engine should sit nicely on the ground, as long as your front tire is turned all the way to the left or right. Then, remove your last bolt.

I'm 175 and 6 feet tall, and I can lift the engine by myself (granted, I do lift a lot of weights and am a cross fitter, so determine for yourself if you need help.) I set the engine on a piece of plywood (as per my avatar) so it doesn't get dinged up.

 

[robindean]

Excellent step-by-step, Bent!

I've always wanted to know the process. It is listed out for me in the manual but then having a fellow rider deliver a thorough explanation is a rockin' compliment to my other readings.

I'm still not dead set on doing that, though. I feel like for this season I might be able to get away with pulling the tank and seat before simply unfastening one engine mounting point, sanding, painting, refastening and then repeating with the other mounting points.

Basically, I believe that NEXT winter will be my first full disassembly, cleaning and tuning.

 

[Lou Ranger]

... I'm still not dead set on doing that, though. I feel like for this season I might be able to get away with pulling the tank and seat before simply unfastening one engine mounting point, sanding, painting, refastening and then repeating with the other mounting points.
Basically, I believe that NEXT winter will be my first full disassembly, cleaning and tuning.

B-W may not be a weight lifter, but his "pivot" is second to none.
I haven't done it yet with my dohc, but the previous winter, before putting away my Yamaha sr250, I worried about a little brown on frame welds etc. I bought a can of Rust-Check type oil. I held newspapers behind each spot where I could and sprayed all the welds, mounts, bolt areas etc. I wiped any excess off surrounding areas but was careful to leave it on the critical points to penetrate.
Then in spring, I did a more thorough wipe-down job and was very pleased with how well the stuff had protected all the brownish spots from winter condensation etc.
It was cheap, quick and easy to do. Admittedly, it was not restorative - but it did suspend any further progression of deterioration.
If you want to go a bit further than this and do some Rustoleum treatment to key areas, I would be tempted to perform part of B-W's engine technique - i.e., everything short of removing the last bolt. Up to that point it would be easily reversible and involve no heavy lifting (just pivoting). It would give you better but not total access to some critical areas for touch-up painting or oiling or both.

PS - Take and post pics - especially if you do some heavy lifting ....

 

[robindean]

You got it. I might just video and time lapse at key stops. We'll see.

 

[bentwrench]

Lou beat me to it. Everything but that last 14mm (maybe 17mm - the freakin big one) bolt, leave the jack under the engine, and then there's no heavy lifting involved.

The only problem with that method is that you likely have rust in that bottom pivot - it's simply closest to stones and water. But if you are OCD enough to hunt it all down, this will get you started.

 

[Lou Ranger]

Lou beat me to it ... The only problem with that method is that you likely have rust in that bottom pivot ...

Wow, I love these contests

If you are not OCD enough (like me), a squirt of Rust-Check (NOT WD-40) will be good enough to arrest any development of rust for long enough for you to wear out all the other parts by RIDING the bike.
This is my plan - to wear the thing out riding before anything rusts through. Which doesn't mean I will not try to take every reasonable preventive maintenance step, just that I would hate to miss a sunny day of riding because I was OCD.

 

[Flexeril]

This Rust-Check seems to be only available in Kanada...craps!

was looking to give it a try.

 

[bentwrench]

What? Something is Canuck only? WHOOO!!! NORTH AMERICAN DOMINATION VIA RUST-CHECK!!!!

 

[Flexeril]

not so fast....after more searching, it can be found in some scattered areas of this country. sorry.

 

[16VGTIDave]

You could also try finding ACF50. It is the aviation version of Rust-Check. Try aviation supply companies or the local airport. A maintenance shop might sell you some.

 

[Lou Ranger]

This Rust-Check seems to be only available in Kanada...craps! was looking to give it a try.

Don't panic I didn't actually use Rust-Check. But up here, Rust-check is like the "Kleenex" of "tissues" and I couldn't remember the exact brand.
It was this product, and they have dealers in some US states: http://www.corrosionfree.com/rust_care.htm

I am sure there are other brands available at US auto shops - at least in the "rust-belt" states. You're in Disgusta - is that GA?

 

[bentwrench]

Booo... No Canadian domination, for now...

 

[robindean]

Interesting, so assuming I do take some of this noise apart, sand and paint ... is Rust Check good as a preventative where there is no rust yet?

Also, same as any of my other posts ... what are the torque values for the engine mounting bolts?

Better question: Where are those figures located in the manual? Seems the appendices doesn't list 'em.

 

[Lou Ranger]

Interesting, so assuming I do take some of this noise apart, sand and paint ... is Rust Check good as a preventative where there is no rust yet?
Also, same as any of my other posts ... what are the torque values for the engine mounting bolts?
Better question: Where are those figures located in the manual? Seems the appendices doesn't list 'em.

Torque table are spread through section 7. Engine 7-7, 7-8. Chasis 7-10. General 7-13.

The various rust oils are not perfect. On cars you have to redo it every year as eventually it runs or wears off. But for putting it away for the winter I think it works great, if you are a rider and not trying to preserve a show-piece in perfect condition. For that level of bike, I am sure no owner would allow any kind of oil of any kind to remain - even on the finish of the frame welds. That's what wax and Q-tips are for.

But for a $1k, 30 yr. old everyday rider, a little oil spray in the fall, wipe off the excess in spring = good to go.

 

[robindean]

I actually ride year-round (I don't winterize)

 

[Lou Ranger]

I actually ride year-round (I don't winterize)

Surely not in the wet, salty slush though, right?
Even if you avoid wet roads, there is salt dust on the dry days and condensation. And no time for wax and Q-tips, right?

I would be spraying Rust Check on all the welds and bolts every few weeks all winter. It really does slow down the oxidation of the ferrous metals.

PS - did you move south from Chicago?