Siezed engine options

[Richmond]

So i picked up an old project to make into a cafe/tracker/whatever and the left piston is all siezed up, shot pb blaster and other penetrating oils in there. no luck. If i pull the heads can i surely bet that ill need to pick up some new cylinders? If the piston is rusted to the cylinder i cant see that coming apart without scoring the cylinders past the ability of honing them. New cylinders for sure?

 

[drewpy]

don't count your chickens till they're hatched. Get the cyl barrel free first and then see the damage there is.

 

[jmd_forest]

Keep adding the PB Blaster once or twice a day and let it sit for a week or so before giving up. I've also heard very good things about a penetrating oil called Kroil, but I've never used it. You may want to try that also

 

[Lou Ranger]

... I've also heard very good things about a penetrating oil called Kroil, but I've never used it. You may want to try that also

Wow, where can you buy Kroil?
We have a 40+ year old can of it and it's almost empty. We were told the Co. was out of business.

 

[jboyer]

my dad always gets kroil from work and it works like a charm

 

[barbwirebilly]

I would pull off the alternator cover and quickly check to see if there is any free movement of the rotor. If the upper end is locked you should be able to ever so slightly rotate the rotor, taking up the clearance in the crank bearings. If the crankshaft is locked there will be no movement at all.

 

[jboyer]

You can get it on ebay for $20 bucks for a 32 ounce can

 

[OG-Rider]

Take it apart and asses the damage first. If you're okay with stock type parts, you can find cylinder blocks, and complete rotating assemblies really cheap on ebay.

 

[Lou Ranger]

KROIL

You can get it on ebay for $20 bucks for a 32 ounce can

I went looking for distribution and came across an interesting posting comparing Penetrating Oils.

Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break-out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective test of the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

Oil_________________Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .......... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
*ATF-Acetone mix...... 53 pounds
​

* a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

The "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results.

 

[Richmond]

I would pull off the alternator cover and quickly check to see if there is any free movement of the rotor. If the upper end is locked you should be able to ever so slightly rotate the rotor, taking up the clearance in the crank bearings. If the crankshaft is locked there will be no movement at all.

Hey thanks for that suggestion yeah ill check that because if it doesnt move at all then ill be in for a much bigger engine tear down project huh?

 

[Scorpio1963]

I have used marvel mystery oil for seized engines with good results.

 

[Drewcifer]

Heat and ATF.

I'd be curious if the seized rings and pistons weren't freed up with some oxalic acid as well. Not much, since oxalic only eats rust to begin with and isn't harmful. Never tried it, just wondering if it would work.