Start problem

[norrie]

Hi. Got my 78 XS250 back from mechanic for a variety of issues and I'd given them the wrong petcock kit and it was leaking fuel from there and my air pods. So I figured that was my starting problem. I've installed the correct one and no more leaks but still no start. Charged the battery up yesterday. Apparently you need a full charge on these to kick over too, correct? Tested with multimeter and had 12.7 and 12.1 with the ignition on. Start button gave me absolutely nothing and can't kick it over. No bite at all. Lights didn't dim when I pressed start either. Fuses in box appear to be OK. Kill switch is set to run. I'm admitting cluelessness. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[troy7548]

If you don't get anything when pushing the start button might be a wiring issue.

 

[norrie]

Can't kickstart either though. Has brand new plugs in it too.

 

[norrie]

I just pulled the plug and heard it against the head. No spark, either from the start button or kicking it over.

 

[kshansen]

Guess the first place I might start, no pun intended, would be to check the points. Not sure if new ones were installed but sometimes new or even old points will need a little cleaning to get them to work. If they are not pitted first thing to try is to slip a nice clean piece of paper between them a few times to get them nice and clean.

Could also use a volt meter to check for power at the points while they are open. The side with the arm should show close to battery voltage with key on.

 

[norrie]

If you don't get anything when pushing the start button might be a wiring issue.

Guess the first place I might start, no pun intended, would be to check the points. Not sure if new ones were installed but sometimes new or even old points will need a little cleaning to get them to work. If they are not pitted first thing to try is to slip a nice clean piece of paper between them a few times to get them nice and clean.

Could also use a volt meter to check for power at the points while they are open. The side with the arm should show close to battery voltage with key on.

Noob question: Even if I get absolutely no feedback from the start button or kick? The points could be the reason the bike is just dead?

 

[norrie]

Nothing to do with my starting problem I guess but I notice this wire wasn't connected behind the headlight. Should it be? What is it for? I see another white cable it looks like it should connect to.

 

[norrie]

It shouldn't be the problem since the bike started fine over an over at the mechanics but could the suggestion I found in another thread be an issue considering I have anodised clip-ons?

"The start button grounds through the housing to the bars. You need a clean bare metal to clean metal connection from the housing to the bars. Assemble the housing back on the bars, try start button, if it cranks your golden, if not you need to do the same on the left side switch housing.
The ground path for the bars is through a black wire on the left side housing down into the headlight bucket to the harness ground. The right side grounds to the bars over to the left side. "

 

[Wolfe_11B]

I'm on my phone so can't check that year diagram, but does it have the safety start relay?

 

[norrie]

I'm way out of my depth here but a Google search suggests no.

 

[BBS360]

Shouldn't have a safety relay according to the Haynes wiring diagram.

It shouldn't be the problem since the bike started fine over an over at the mechanics but could the suggestion I found in another thread be an issue considering I have anodised clip-ons?

Could be your problem. Anodizing changes the surface into non-conductive aluminum oxide.
You could sand through the anodized surface to get an electrically conductive contact area.
An alternative would be to run an additional wire from the ground wires in the headlight bucket to each control and attach it internally.

 

[norrie]

Shouldn't have a safety relay according to the Haynes wiring diagram.

Could be your problem. Anodizing changes the surface into non-conductive aluminum oxide.
You could sand through the anodized surface to get an electrically conductive contact area.
An alternative would be to run an additional wire from the ground wires in the headlight bucket to each control and attach it internally.

Power needs to get to the starter motor before anything will happen with the points, no? It's like the kill switch isn't switching to allow power to the starter motor or allow you to kick it over. But we pulled the switch apart and it seems to be functioning fine. And I followed the wires to the headlight housing and cleaned the connections where it joined the wires heading back towards the coils. I didn't see any contact point from the kill switch, all wires went to the headlight. Not sure about the start button. If there was a problem with the start button we should be able to still kick it over though. I'm more confused than ever.

 

[norrie]

If you don't get anything when pushing the start button might be a wiring issue.

Gonna change the fuses just in case tomorrow. Failing that, you'd be right me thinks.

 

[norrie]

It was a damn fuse! And now I'm on the road. Bwaaaaaaarrp!