OK, this probably sounds stupid. When I check my valve clearances, do I have to open up the rt and lt side? Can I do both from the side of the alt cover? The manual isn't very specific, to me it seems vague. I also don't know what I'm doing so it may be me. I really appreciate everyone's help. Have a great day!
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Valve clearances
- Thread starter zonk39
- Start date
The only reason to take the alternator cover off (left) is to rotate the engine and see the timing marks. Yes- that side only needs to come off.
I really appreciate all of the advice. Have a great day!
It's just the little round cover too, not the entire alternator side cover.
It's a 17 mm bolt that turns the engine over. There should be an arrow that shows the direction to turn it.
There is always a little "slop" between a 17 mm socket/wrench and the bolt; this can cause major head aches because the engine can rotate right past the mark you're trying to stop it at. I've taken to using an adjustable wrench for a tight grip; it made setting the timing and valves MUCH easier.
After you set the valves or timing always double or even triple check that the arrow is still pointing at the line on the alternator cover. It is possible to force the engine to rotate when you shove a feeler between the valve and rocker arm. It is also possible that it can rotate by itself due to the weight of the pistons or pressure on the valves/cam lobes/rocker arms.
It's a 17 mm bolt that turns the engine over. There should be an arrow that shows the direction to turn it.
There is always a little "slop" between a 17 mm socket/wrench and the bolt; this can cause major head aches because the engine can rotate right past the mark you're trying to stop it at. I've taken to using an adjustable wrench for a tight grip; it made setting the timing and valves MUCH easier.
After you set the valves or timing always double or even triple check that the arrow is still pointing at the line on the alternator cover. It is possible to force the engine to rotate when you shove a feeler between the valve and rocker arm. It is also possible that it can rotate by itself due to the weight of the pistons or pressure on the valves/cam lobes/rocker arms.
All of your insight is very helpful. In the last ten min. I just realized that I should check the timing while I'm in there. I'll read the manual, but will I need a light or some special tool? Thanks again, have a great day!
I made my own light; you can buy alligator clips, some wires, and a small light bulb. Solder it all together to make a cheap and effective timing light. I usually tape the bulb right next to the stator cover so I can see it turn on and watch the timing lines at the same time.
One end of the bulb clips on to a point and the other to a fin on the engine. Make sure the clip on the point is on one of the flat, flexible "bars" and does not touch anything else or it will ground out.
One end of the bulb clips on to a point and the other to a fin on the engine. Make sure the clip on the point is on one of the flat, flexible "bars" and does not touch anything else or it will ground out.
I feel like an idiot. I don't have points I have a TCI. The manual doesn't mention that. Does anyone know how to check timing with electronic ignition. Thanks alot, have a great day!
New guy
XS400 Member
I am just about to do my valves and timing as well. When I take the alternator cover off do I have to drain all the oil first? Will the oil come pouring with the cover off?
If the bike is on the center stand, you should get a slow drip, nothing more (unless it's overfilled). If it's on the side stand, well, you might as well drain the oil first.
I don't have a center stand. What I usually do is prop the bike's frame/engine on the right side up against something solid. A sturdy work bench would work and you can stick something soft between the two objects. I usually remove the gas tank and put it in a safe place.
Here is another stupid question. Could the noise be the cam chain? If it is, will I have to take apart the engine to get to it?
If it is the cam chain you'll have to remove the valve cover (the top-most cover) on the engine. It can be removed with the engine in the frame of the bike. There are something like 14 bolts holding it on. The only pain is getting a torque wrench on 2 or 3 of the bolts when you're putting it back together.
Only the little round caps need to be removed to do the valves.
I like the tensioner in the XS400, as it looks to be a self adjusting type. If the cam is making noise I'd expect that a guide blade would have to be worn or installed improperly. Cam chains don't take a lot of wear because they are always bathed in fresh oil as they rotate around.
I'd check the cam chain last. Try to eliminate other possibilities first. Come back here fore advice on removal and installation if it does come to it though. I have lots of tips I could share
Only the little round caps need to be removed to do the valves.
I like the tensioner in the XS400, as it looks to be a self adjusting type. If the cam is making noise I'd expect that a guide blade would have to be worn or installed improperly. Cam chains don't take a lot of wear because they are always bathed in fresh oil as they rotate around.
I'd check the cam chain last. Try to eliminate other possibilities first. Come back here fore advice on removal and installation if it does come to it though. I have lots of tips I could share
1lowdiesel
XS400 Addict
Not sure if this is true or not, but i've heard that you can hear the valve float and tick if put your hand over the exhaust with the bike running if the valve is out of clearance. Is this true?
branson
XS400 Addict
I concurr. Hearing valve timing with a hand over your exhaust sounds like guaging thee distance of a pursuing possie by putting your ear to the ground and listening for hoofbeats. The only time I could hear when somethings was not right by listening to my exhaust was when I had a four cylinder honda running on three. Even that sound was very faint. Goodluck and much fun with your project sir
branson
XS400 Addict
Also something about funneling exhaust gases into ones ear canal seems like a bad idea. Intake clearance according to my haynes manual says it should be between .003" and .005" and the exhaust at .006" and .008 at tdc and tells me to put the engine through all for cycles before finding tdc as well as to rotate it counter clockwise. (Well it says anti-clockwise but mine is written with an english dialect)
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