I didn't do a re-wind, I did the Re-wire the wires external to the coil. Which is what the Re-wire portion of the Tech section is recommending. generically there is a bad spot, on all the originally wired systems, and that same location if no one has done anything to that previous to your ownership. So Choppers/modifiers, and the like may have re-did the wires for what ever purpose and do not have this issue. Those of us trying to re-store the bikes and maintain them, will eventually run into this. Ultimately people will spend alot of money on these bikes, and I am guilty, for a small project that involves a 4 dollar roll of wire, and a solder gun, a decent crimp er, some heatshrink, and now my recommendation of coating the wires with enamel spray paint. The crimp-er if you don't have is 15 bucks or so, the rest of the stuff a buck or two. This is the re-wire link if you didn't see it.
http://www.xs400.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5934
Also, I'm a little confused when you say "Without the rectifier/regulator hooked up". The wires from out charging system plug directly into those components. How did you connect a stator without hooking it up to the rectifier?
I suspect that my interpretation of your previous statement led me to believe you had place the stator into the bike, and ran the bike with out the Reg/Rectifier. Ran it somehow with the stator plugged in, and not being controlled by the rectifier. So when the Fuses were blowing, to me it would make sense. The fuse and everything that the fuses are protecting, is looking for 12 volts, DC (direct current) (12v DC) The stator is making Volts in Alternating Current. How much volts depends on the rotation of the crankshaft. When you look at the diagram, the white wires going to headlight, or the rectifier, does have a Diode to protect the headlight from the AC current, and the rectifier is protecting the rest of the system from the AC current. When your next post, seem to make think that you didn't run the motor, so than that to me tells you are doing a battery test, which should be fine, but the fuse still popped. So I don't know what was really going on. Did that clear things up???
The bad spot I suspect is created by 2 elements, The heat from the tranmission section of the crankcase, and the focus of the energy created by the stator. Energy has a couple attributes that gets left out, one-I likes to over heat central parts of the wire, so the distance of the rec/Reg and the stator, the bad spot seems to exactly center of the two items, and then there is a problem with electrons not liking the up-hill slops, so that seems to support that theory. My first theory is supported by any group of children playing at the park with the generator squeeze handles, and when you get odd number of children on the squeeze, which kid says the zap is worse, (middle child) (not scientific), the other is an argument in Networking CAT5 circles. That you tend to loose bits on elevated structures. So that argument is more for skyscrapers, but with over 30 years on the bikes, I think we can accept that risk. That and the eventuality of the VR die-ing, and leaving the Magnet on, all the time, potentially making the wire burn out, center of the run.
I suppose I can ask my fire inspectors where do the most fire start at, as far as extension cords being over used. I suspect they would say either the wire will be coiled up, creating its own feedback field, and or the center most of the wire, which is transporting the most amps, and the like, for running the Beer cooler, the Tele, the wireless routers, ... (one more reason to make sure you extension cords are all UL listed.
to happen at.
