Yup!
Well, sort of...
I completely redid the fuses on my bike a couple years ago. From the stock 4 fuses to 14. I broke out each circuit as best as I could, so that a short in one circuit wouldn't take out anything else. I have a 4 fuse block that is always hot to the battery. A 10 fuse block is connected to one of the 4 block fuses via a 40A relay. The ignition switch gets power from the 4 block and triggers the relay, which then powers everything on the 10 block. The ignition gets power via it's own fuse on the 10 block, through the kill switch, then to the coils, TCI module, and rev limiter.
The trick I found is having the charging circuit output connected to the 4 block rather than the 10. This allows the engine to stop when the ignition key is turned off. When I had the charging output connected to the 10 block, the ignition key could be turned off and all that happened was the battery was disconnected. The charging circuit kept feeding the lights, ignition, etc. and the bike kept running. That took some thinking to figure out!
To date, I have not had any electrical issues, despite adding an air horn, heated grips, and driving lights. The only time the system voltage drops below 14V is at idle with a load on, or when blasting the horn.