Kickstart knocked a whole in my case.

Theres a top and botton case going for $50 shipped on ebay. Itd be cool to see this work even though i dont have faith in the jb weld sealing and not cracking from stress and heat. If you had the pieces that broke off id say to try soldering/brazing it. And no, i dont mean the solder you use in copper pipes
 
Well, we will see if it works here in a couple weeks. Since its on the back of the case I figured it wouldn't see much stress or major temps being on the opposite end of the cylinders. I've done JB on cracks in small engine cases before with satisfactory results. But this isn't a crack. I'm hopeful that it but not holding my breath. If it fails, then I'll be looking for a case. If it works, I saved my self the time and effort of swapping a entire engine and trans when I know this engine runs.

@NewHavenMike yep, im aware of the difference of soldering needs, i know aluminum needs to get way hotter to solder with it's own special solder. I've never done it and I don't know if I could get it clean enough to trust it. So I went with what I know. Im definitely going to update this when she's running again.
 
JB weld...:eek:
I'd be weary...considering temperatures/pressures involved...I am one to hate being stranded with my bike
...but that being said...hope it works for you

I am cautious, when its finally running good and registered, I've got a 17 mile commute to work and if it fails it wouldn't be too far to get to my pickup and scoop it up. I plan on running it alot, quite a few warm up and cool down cycles, to get it to expand and contract and see what happens before I even put it on the street.
 
So I'm getting closer to being able to see if my sweet JB Weld repair will hold. My starter clutch wasn't working and since I'm now at a lack of a kick start, I had to fix it. On a random thought/last ditch effort, I rented the pulley puller kit for a Chevy power steering pump that I've used on my pickup 3 times cuz I couldn't find the right bolt locally to pull the alternator rotor. Works phenomenally. Turns out it's the right size and thread pitch.

I got the starter clutch off and immediately saw the problem. One spring was broken, one was weak as he'll. And the third wasn't too bad. I realized that buying these springs locally would be difficult, but I realized I might be able to source them another place. My local TD Bank. I had a TD Bank pen in my pickup i ripped apart and took the spring out of. Same. Exact. Size. And stronger then the one spring that was good. So I hopped into my truck, ran to the bank and grabbed two more pens to scavenge the springs from.
Starter clutch works great now.
I made a new gasket for the alternator/starter cover and bolted it up. Next weekend I'm going to adapt a regular canister oil filter to her and fill it and see if she will run, and ultimately if my JB Weld repair will hold.
Anyone who's interested, stay tuned.
 
I am not moving quick on this at all. And this time forgot pics. But I put a regular oil filter on her. Filled up the crank case and tried to start it up. And the starter clutch was slipping. Upon further inspection, I found it was cracked. Busted out the dremel and welder. Ground out 80 percent of the crack and laid a few beads over the crack. Which worked phenomenally. The starter clutch works perfect now. Unfortunately I couldn't removed all the oil residue from the steel which resulted in a mediocre weld. It's holding, and we will see for how long. But if nothing else, it'll work for the time being.

Got her running for a while today and it would only run on full choke. I found one rubber boot was leaking so I put a touch of rtv on it and that helped it. Had it running for probably half a hour total messing around. Got it nice and warm and actually idling decent till it ran out of gas.

And back to the original topic of this thread. So far, my JB Weld repair is holding and not leaking. I'm gonna get it fired up again tomorrow and run it for a bit, maybe even grab a video to throw up here.
 
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