Oil plug fell out on freeway!

ThePsuedoMonkey

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I hate to be someone who starts out asking for help, but I think I need it.

After an oil change I stop for fuel, no problems yet. I get on the freeway and travel ~9mi before I start to lose power from the throttle, previously traveling 75mph with tachometer at 6.5k, at which point I grab the clutch and move off to the side. The engine may have stalled before I cut it off, but I'm not sure as there are a lot of semi-trucks on that freeway and I was too caught up in controlling the bike to look at the tach. After checking out the bike I realize that I was an idiot and didn't torque the oil plug properly :banghead: but there was still some oil draining from the pan, so I immediately call a friend to load the bike into a pickup. We double back to see how far I had gone after the plug fell and notice the trail about 3mi from where I pulled off.

I have not touched the bike yet, as I do not have the opportunity until the weekend, but have found a new plug, assuming that the thread on the '81 is also M14-1.5 like the manual for the '82 says, as well as a gasket set in the event that I need to tear down the engine. I have never done this before and am ridiculously nervous, but I know there may be extensive damage and that it must be done if that is the case.

I am hoping that it can be saved without a complete rebuild, so right now my plan is as follows: Remove the side covers, filter, and oil screen checking for metal flecks. If I find none I will fill the oil through the top end (heads/lifters was my first thought, due to my experience with cars), letting gravity do what it can to lubricate the system in lue of the oil pump. After leaving the oil to work through the system for a few hours I plan to start turning the engine via the kick start with the cutoff switch in the "off" position, slowly at first and being satisfied after ~5min of gradually increasing this. I will check the oil filter and screen for metal flecks before actually starting the engine and running for a few minutes, again before riding for about a half hour under gentle conditions ( <35mph, <4kRPM), and once more for good measure.

What do you guys think of this plan? Should I use a lower viscosity oil to clean out the system at first? Should I tear down the engine anyway? If I tear it down are there any curve-balls I need to look out for like bolts torqued to yield or parts that should have a liquid gasket? Should I use oil additives like Lucas stabilizer or Seafoam? If there is damage, where would it most likely be?

Thank you for reading that huge wall of text! Your assistance is much appreciated, have a great day everyone!
 
You shouldn't get any flecks as any wear would be in bores.

oil has a nice propensity to stick around a while and I remeber those STP ads which say the engine ran for X miles, and then some motoring mag did the same with no stp and got the same results.

the only problem may be in the bearing shells as they need oil pressure to maintain the lubrication gap between each part.

I would check the filter gauze and change the oil filter, then fill with oil and take out the spark plugs. crank the engine over on kick to prime the system and then use the starter motor.

after that I would start the bike and listen for knocking/rumbling on bearings. then I'd slowly ride to check for gear whine etc. I'd take it from there!
 
Drewpy you are the man... Just sayin'

I was basically going to say that if there is any damage, it has already been done so fill 'er up and fire it up and see what happens. But you should probably just do what Drewpy recommended. I think your plan was a little too cautious and probably unnecessary.. Don't tear into the engine unless you need to. :twocents:
 
Thanks for the input you guys! I've been really worried about this the last few days, especially since I've never had to worry about something like this before. I am going stir-crazy not being able to work on it during the week, which allows my OCD-ishness to work through plans like that, but I am immeasurably relieved that you guys seem more optimistic than I was about this!

I will hold off tearing into the engine, but will probably check the filter and screen once more than Drewpy suggested since I still fear that some metal may have come loose and without oil in the case it wouldn't get to the filter or the screen. I shall let you know what happens this weekend.
 
I'll give you credit for one thing, I haven't had the guts to take mine out on the freeway with semi traffic, let alone doing 75. Hope everything is OK with your bike!
 
Yeah I had a hard time finding ALL of the main bearings for mine. You might want to look in to that first.
But on the other hand .....tear her down and find out how she works. You have nothing to loose now.:shrug:
 
I decided to tear her down, mostly just for shiggles. Got down to the pistons and noticed no damage to the sleeve, so I sprayed some Pb Blaster on them and tried to rotate the crankshaft. After a little work it loosed up! I checked the entire visible surface of the sleeves and still no damage, the crankshaft was loose now but there was still some catching as I rotated it so I kept going.
Fast forward: turns out one of the piston bearings got toasted, and the other wasn't that great either. Looks like I can get her running again if I can find a good machine shop (let me know if you know of one in SW Michigan or Chicagoland) and bearings!

I have yet to successfully remove the flywheel/rotor from the crankshaft, any recommendations? Also, I checked the starter motor and it spins quite slowly when hooked up to battery (~10-20rpm), are these salvageable or should I be looking for a new one?
 
Starter was full of black oil :wtf: I was not aware that these required oil. Cleaned up everything with some Simple Green, but Brush#2 was wasted; got one off Ebay for $12 but #1 is still in spec (and costs $25!). Ordered new bearings for the crankshaft ($30!) as well as a backup crankshaft assembly in the event I screw up this one. I remember reading about some pin for the crankshaft elsewhere in this forum, but I do not recall this pin being present when I removed my crankshaft: does anyone know what the deal with this pin is?

(fingers crossed for assembly next week :))
 
where's this pin agin?

crank-piston-xs400e-1978_bigyau0808a-8_811b.gif
 

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sometimes those fall out as they can be loose, if its not in the bottom of the case look at the top one. Its a dowel which helps locate the two halves.
 
So we are en route to completion here (finally), too bad I was just rained out! Everything has been cleaned and is in decent shape, but the (expletive) starter motor brush hasn't come in yet so I am leaving off the chain connecting it to the flywheel (as well as the solenoid). Installed the engine to the frame, but the kick-start is not behaving: it does not ratchet back up and seems to be constantly connected to the drive-train. I don't suppose anyone would be familiar with this? I am assuming that this is how the spring is supposed to be positioned:
P8200072.jpg
 
yep, but you need to pre-tension it.

make sure the sliding gear slides, put the bottom loop in and pull the hook clockwise with a pair of plumbers pliers round onto the post on the crankcase at 12 o'clock position.
 
Got it! Turns out I missed that the inside is sort of keyed, which was supposed to be in the 6 o'clock position. Had to make my own tool for this 'en (a nail bent into a hook and held with vice-grips to make it easier to manipulate) as well as have someone keep the orientation of the shaft via another set of vice-grips.

We are up and running now... sort of. It had trouble starting up, so after checking the easy stuff I looked at the points system. There appear to be two preset positions for the spindle which is attached to the camshaft, so I positioned the crankshaft so that the indicator on the rotor indicates "LF" and then aligned the spindle attached to the camshaft to the first (top) magnetic point (making the assumption that the cylinder fires when the spindle rotates past that first point). The other position which the spindle can be seated in is 45 degrees ahead of this, and thus dead center between the two points. This got the bike running, though there was quite a bit of misfiring going on (maybe the other position was correct?).

I mustered the courage to ride this baby after trying to balance the carbs based on the exhaust of each piston, but that didn't last long as it stalled out a few times and was backfiring and taking a while to respond to throttle. I bought some vacuum gauges and did a proper balancing of the carbs (was off by less than two turns), but the end result was similar, except that by now the battery was too weak to start it or even run after getting a jump. I've got the bloody battery on the charger, but I'm pretty sure the thing is shot based on the issues it's given me (any guesses as to the make of the battery? Yep, its a "Duralast").

So now I'm trying to track down anything that can result in backfiring. Ideas?
 
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