They're referring to which end of the field coil wire gets switched.Somebody is pulling your leg, the field get switched on BOTH ends. Gets switched ON when charge is low and OFF when charge is high. On ALL alternators.
It makes a difference because a ground switching regulator won't work when plugged into a bike wired to switch the positive supply, and vice versa.It makes absolutely no difference at all which end of the field coil gets switched in the operation of the field, either end will work the same. The alt when it rotates will still work the same, all it knows is if there is magnetism in the field or not.
It makes a difference because a ground switching regulator won't work when plugged into a bike wired to switch the positive supply, and vice versa.
K3ith I know other members have used the RR38 but I do not recall which year of bike they had. It looks like the RR33 probably has the right connectors but also doesn't say which models it is compatible with.
The Mike's/Rick's one should work fine.
Any of the above could be made to work with any model of bike if you are willing, able, and understand the changes required.
I think a direct swap is probably in your best interest.
As AMC points out you would also be replacing the rectifier but that's not an issue at all.
Thanks!!On the ground switching one you have to sever the ground point and carry the connection back out as power to the to the field instead. Harder to do if the reg grounds right to the case, you would have to remove that and insulate the mounting point to carry out another wire for power instead.
A grounding regulator will be hooking up to field power from somewhere else after the load, not the regulator, and the other type will have a freestanding ground outside the reg to end the field circuit.