Should I put some gussets in this

Drewpy was hoping you would look. Her is pick of cross braces http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o558/WLS4/BothCrossBrackets.jpg
There are also a few more pics in my barnbuild thread and some more on photobucket under WLS4 . Am I correct that the gussets need to be offset from center of tube a bit to prevent the can opener effect they talk about at chopcult. I welcome any advice you have.
 
can't get into the album, permission denied.

cross braces look ok, I have seen gussets offset, in fact you can see what Mr Yamaha did on the same frame opposite side of the rear brake mount
 
Drewpy my bad on the album just got the photobucket account think its public now here is link http://s1147.photobucket.com/albums/o558/WLS4/. I have some big steel washers im gonna use on the frame after i cut and fit. About shock towers dont remember if i have pic on here they are plated on both sides all plates welded top bottom inside and out dont know where i would put gusset but i am thinking of putting a flat plate across the top of the towers.
 
just thinking, the weakest spot would be the tubing, especially in a concentrated area like the shocks.


the plates would be fine just the tubing they attached to!
 
I wouldn't worry about adding gussets to the initial 2 yellow areas in your photos assuming the tubes were properly contoured with clean fitting saddles and you got full penetration with your welding. A triangle is one of the strongest geometrical shapes there is. My concern would be in the shock attachments that extend about 4 inches or so above the seat frame. The large outside gussets you installed there are won't add any strength above the bending moment created at the corner where you welded the horizontal frame member for the seat to the vertical frame member. In the last photo you show a gusset above that joint that will help but I'd still be a little concerned about the forces at play on the tubing extension above the rear seat frame joint that is the foundation of your shock attachment.
 
What about slugging the upright to below the joint.I could grind off outside shock plates and run them further down the tube. Could do all 4 just to be sure
One last thought what about cutting the rails back out and sleveng the back verticals all the way to bottom jointnby the swing arm that sounds strong
 
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The box isnt fixed its sheet metal but it could be replaced with plate i have points system on way so i dont need as much room that would save some grinding . Thanks wasnt thinking along those lines ill see what i can mock up. I just want to say thanks to all for the help you guys are cool.
 
The last picture you posted will resist the bending moment more, especially if welded up with plate as opposed to sheet metal since the reinforcement is in compression instead of tension. Personally, I would put the reinforcement on the other side of the tube ( in tension) or, as you mentioned earlier, insert a solid sleeve inside the tubing and weld it along several radial axis to counter the forces from the shocks on the tubing at the weld joint of the seat frame and the vertical rear frame.
 
slugging with solid bar will cause the tube to break as there is no flex in solid.

It usual to use the same wall thickness for slugs!
 
Looks like the best thing to do is redo the shock plates to a bigger one that catches both rails.a bit of grinding to keep a shock out of my arse is okay by me.
 
Mabey im overthinking what about as jmd forest suggested go on the tension side with a piece of split tubing and run from below seat rail to top of tower that would up the thickness on the back and still blend in pretty decent.
 
I would just do something like this on both sides. That will give you enough support all around.

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