Blown Fuse -Ignition- Neutral light not on -Relay????

Hi guys, I have tried to find anything posted on blown relays, and how to check?

Story thus far ... finally got last clutch shim, thrown it into bike, and filled it up with Oil and now I am trying to start it. I was able to get the Neutral light(NL) to turn on by jumping the 2 wire at the relay connector. So is this Safety relay dead? The other relay was warm to the touch (going bad??) Finally while bouncing the bike from neutral to 1st or 2nd gear, I did try to push the starter Electric button. probable when fused blew. Oil light was on, NL on at that time(while connector was jumped.) beside needing a 10 amp fuse, the local motorcycle place quoted me $65.00 for a new relay, Just wasn't specific for the Safety circuit. I did feel it click or something before the fuse blew.

mental note: I do like the fuse's that glow when they pop. Probable save be some time in troubleshooting a blown fuse.

Kinda concerned that I haven't been able to move the crank shaft since putting the clutch in, I felt there should have been some thing to check for functionality. (prior to sealing up the clutch side panel.)

Any one have any good ideas???? Thanks
Tobie
Robbinsdale MN

Any one have any Ideas? Here is a picture of the 2 fuses.

Any one have an Idea where is the most inexpensive place to pick up relays???

Any one have any testing Ideas for these relays????

Tobie

relays work by a small electro magnet which throws a big "switch" to get power to flow.

the click you can hear is the switch throwing, thus the larger connectors should be at infinity using a multimeter when this happens and open circuit with power off.

On SOHC bikes, I don't think there is a safety lock out, that is, the bike need not be in neutral to start- it's just an indicator light.

Cool, I did swap the relays onto the other circuits. I did hear the Clik as Drewpy said, and then the Head light worked. So I put that relay back onto its circuit. I did just rewire the A/C Generator, just like Drewpy's Re-Wire first part. I am re-signing myself that I am going have to spend at least $68. from https://www.powersportsplus.com for this. of coarse I could get one for maybe $29 from Ebay, used. Hmmmm Since no one is really coming up with a decent wire / map / diagram for test purposes, its hard to just add power to this link here, and check for output power here.

1st thing I guess I am going to have to do is Double check the Connectors, make sure I didn't cross the neutral check wire with the Oil pressure light, and the other 2 wires.

2nd thing I think I need to worry about hmmmm It will come to me while I am looking at the bike!

What we know is headlight works, and Neutral light works, and the relay marked 4H7. I think 3H5 is bad.

3H5 is the circuit that handles Neutral Oil switches, Clutch Switch (At the clutch handle) incoming power from the igniter Unit.

4H7 circuit has the 1. Power in from Fuse, 2.Headlight diming Blue wire, 3. white wire is from the Generator, for the Headlight, 4. black is a ground / earth line

Has anyone noticed that the Neutral sensor on the crankcase, seems to remained charged even when its out of neutral? I will double check it of course, (that's number 2 from earlier in my ramblings

Eureka, You know when your doing a tear down, and you put the engine on the table top, and you start removing this, and that, and that and this, one of the things I did pull out, and forgot where it went was a spring. this spring looked like a spring to my Govt issued pen. I had thought it was part of the clutch. I never found proof, so I never put it in. While looking at the Neutral safety system, the diagram had a spring like thing, yea that proved where it went. Its the spring that pushes out the ball thing, so that the neutral light turns on.

Things Learn't To isolate anything that needs a Light, pull out the Lightbulb. Everytime I checked for continutiy with gound, the light buld always reported a short. so if the (in my case) I was checking the wire from triangle thing (Neutral check switch) to first connector, to the relay. I was getting false readings when I put the bike in gear. Once I pulled the light bulb, I knew there was no short. and the wires to relay/connector worked just fine. Coincidentally once the spring was put in, it was reporting right!!!!

I still think the one relay is blowned out. I did get the biked started, I started adjusting Idle/balance screws (forgot the chock was out) and got a reading on the charging system. so now that I got the balance/idle screwed up, Then if that wasn't bad enough, I burnt my leg on the muffler while adjusting it. so tomorrow I will take up this challenge to reset the screws, and try to get this going.

So here is what I have mapped out for these relays!
Relay:
1 B Ground
2 L/B Headlight
3 W AC power from generator
4 R/Y Power from Fuse box

Safety relay
1. R/W Starter Switch
2. R/W Ignitor Unit to relay to OFF/ON engine Off Switch
3. B/Y Clutch Handlebar switch,
4. sb Neutral Switch
(Numbers randomly assigned by me)

Safety switch works! Relay may not! Note I did swap the two relays, and the headlight did work. So Order new Relay, bench tune the Carbs, Check Charging system, Use Homemade "Houghmade" manometer Certify I did a great Job!

Looking at the "Curly Charging Guide"
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3461

Curly does state if certain conditions exist, the relay maybe broken. Then looking the Relay, it has a White wire coming from a Diode, going to the Relay, so that is straight AC power. I suppose that is being directed to the Headlight usage. really not much else left there. No wonder this is probably special. it has to deal with DC and AC power. So I suppose I am still in need to trouble shoot in order, first, new relay will be here. 2. Check for short in Stator. I underlined my issues as I am aware of them!

Quote"" 6. At the stator wire connector locate the three white wires. Use a voltmeter set on the AC scale to test the three possible connections between the white wires by probing from the backside of the connector. (The connector should be plugged togeter for this test) With the engine running at idle you should see about 10.5 to 11 AC volts (Not DC) on each of the three combinations of white to white that you make. If you get a very low reading on one or two legs then something is grounding your stator. If you have high readings on any of the legs (i.e. 16-18VDC) then your rectifier is bad.


7. If you got low readings on any of the stator voltage checks then unplug the connector and use your ohm meter to check the stator windings. Check the resistance between the three fabric covered wires (stator side) on the side of the connector. On each white to white connection you should read about 0.4 to 0.5 Ohms. If you get a very low reading on all of the three combinations find the single Yellow wire connector and disconnect it. Re-check your stator resistance. If the readings are now good then the yellow wire or safety relay are shorted. If there is one or more that still read low after disconnecting the yellow then check those legs by touching one lead to ground with the other on the white wire. You should see a very high Kilo ohm or infinite reading. If you get a low resistance check the stator lead pigtail to see if it is pinched by the cases or rubbed through on the frame. If that looks ok then your stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.

All this posting, and there was nothing wrong, it was the Voltage Regulator.
See post http://www.xs400.com/forum/showpost.php?p=88162&postcount=72

Relay Worked once the Voltage Regulator was swapped,

neutral Light I forgot to put a sping in the hole behind the brass contact bulb thing.