Cracked oil filter cover - J-B Weld or replace?

Lou Ranger

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I know this also belongs on the "Tell on Yourself" thread, and I promise to put it there once my bike is ride-able again. :doh:
Even using a torque wrench set at 11 lbs., I managed to over-tighten the oil filter cover bolt and put a couple of cracks in the cover. :shootme:
Could it be repaired with J-B Weld or do I need to get a new cover?

The pics show the 2 main cracks on the inside surface, what they look like on the outside surface, and some other small secondary crack which only show on the inside surface. I would really appreciate your advice, thanks.
 

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I'd just replace it. Don't need to keep worrying about if or when it's going to leak. Do it by hand next time this way you can "feel" when it's aboot to be tight enough.
 
I'd just replace it. Don't need to keep worrying about if or when it's going to leak. Do it by hand next time this way you can "feel" when it's aboot to be tight enough.
Thanks, I hope these things are readily available.
I feel so stupid. :doh:
I recently met a guy who has been a motorcycle mechanic for 25 years. He told me he shuns socket wrenches for the final tightening because the handle is built for the largest of the sockets in the set. He told me that each size wrench has a different length handle for a reason - so guys like him can't over-torque. He does the final tightening with the single-size wrench - tightens to "wrist tight".
He does make exceptions for installing wheels and reassembling engines. Hasn't cracked an oil filter cover in 25 years and I do my first one using all the "right" tools. :doh:
 
If you're feeling adventurous, how about using a torch to weld it back over itself? Pull the screw out and push the plate down in firmly packed sand, evenly heat it with whatever torch is handy until you get a little pool at the cracks; quench it when you're finished and then do the other side. Careful though, as even natural gases have flames around 2000C while aluminum melts around 700.
 
It is a noble aspiration to have JB Weld never touch your bike.
I know, I know, I am so torn.
Then I ask myself - are we "One Percenters" just doing that to rub the Plebes' noses in it? Truth-be-told, I'm pretty much a Plebian myself and I figured it would be inside the oil sump and at the bottom - who would know, would the Patricians ever have to find out?
 
If you're feeling adventurous, how about using a torch to weld it back over itself?
Wow, could that work? When the alternative to being adventurous is the same as not being adventurous (i.e., buying a replacement part) then I am usually filled with courage. When the choice is only between a a sure-fire solution and an adventurous hail Mary that could fail, I am chicken through and through.

If I can confirm that these things are readily available I may just get adventurous. Thanks PsM for the nightmares tonight.. :wink2:
Does a propane torch for melting plumbing solder heat to 700º?
 
A propane torch is plenty hot to melt aluminum. I've melted aluminum pans on the stove when I was a kid :)
 
A propane torch is plenty hot to melt aluminum. I've melted aluminum pans on the stove when I was a kid :)
But now that you're an adult, would you be adventurous and try it? Could I use a piece of an old aluminum pan (with a leak) to add metal to the weak area?
 
You may be able to fuse the area without adding material. You might try stuffing the crack with aluminum from a can or sheet of foil if its big enough.

I would try it since it won't likely cost you anything. Melt up some pan pieces and give it a try; there is nothing to lose.

Actually, the aluminum can might be a bad idea because I am not sure if they are lined with a polymer. Any scrap pure piece of aluminum should work. You can break it down into little bits to melt it faster.
 
Thanks PsM for the nightmares tonight.. :wink2:
It's one of my specialties. :cool: EngTB has more info (as is its custom) including other torch gases.

I think you've got a pretty good chance of getting it, since torch welding seems ideal for cast aluminum and the sand will help prevent it from flowing if you overheat it. Those brazing rods that HM pointed out look pretty sweet for this kind of thing too, and it looks like they are just a mixture of aluminum and zinc (probably 5%Al, based on their phase diagram, which would melt at 382C) so you might even be able to get 'em locally. They would make it ridiculously easy, since you wouldn't need to worry about melting too much of the cover. I'd still give it a shot without 'em, but only because I'm a cheapskate. :thumbsup:
 
I'd seen a demo of those rods and it was pretty good. even a fillet weld to a plate at right angles onto another plate.

Only thing is I would be tempted to get another cover knowing its not broken and meaning it'll look unmolested
 
I would ask the question this way: If this part were to fail because I chose to weld over replacing, will I be happy with the outcome?
 
... Only thing is I would be tempted to get another cover knowing its not broken and meaning it'll look unmolested
I know what you mean. Appearance-wise, it's lucky the dohc cover is out of sight on the bottom - but that location (at the very bottom of the engine) makes the cover a "critical-fail" part.
I would ask the question this way: If this part were to fail because I chose to weld over replacing, will I be happy with the outcome?
I've been asking it just that way since having a nightmare or 2 last night - thanks PsM. :wink2: The answer, of course, is NO, I would not be too pleased at being "penny-wise and pound-foolish".
Visited a welder today and he said that they could weld it and make it solid but it would be tricky getting the repair honed down perfectly so the bolt and tube would fit tight, and the bolt's little O-ring would seat and not leak - not to mention the main O-ring for the whole cover. He recommended I regard this option as a very last resort and suggested a few repair shops with parts barns to try first.
They're readily available, I got mine off of ebay for 10bucks. from Northwest Salvage ...
I'm told there weren't many of the DOHCs made compared to the SOHCs. The covers are different and not interchangeable. E-bay didn't have any yesterday or today and I visited a couple of places today with no luck. One super guy even phoned a big bike graveyard and another competitor for me but neither had one.

BentWrench appears to be right - that nothing ever happens to the '83 DOHCs (except for owner abuse - :eek:) and, since most are still running and haven't blown up, there are virtually no low-end parts in the graveyards. Maybe if I find him a Seca 6 spd tranny, he will let me keep the oil filter cover ...
 
Are you limiting your search for a replacement to 400's only? I don't know the DOHC bikes at all but the way a lot of vehicle manufacturers work it could very well be a generic piece to all or most DOHC engines, not just the 400.

Just a thought. :shrug:
 
Are you limiting your search for a replacement to 400's only? I don't know the DOHC bikes at all but the way a lot of vehicle manufacturers work it could very well be a generic piece to all or most DOHC engines, not just the 400.
Just a thought. :shrug:
And a good thought it is. I have placed no limits on my search but am getting quite discouraged and may talk to a few more aluminum welders this aft. One place yesterday had a number of dead DOHC 4 cylinder engines (likely 650s) which look identical from the side, however, their oil filter covers are clam-shell shaped, not round and flat.
A local little one-man shop near Owen Sound thought he had one ordered for me, but he a got a call from the knowledgeable parts clerk who caught it before it went out - it was the sohc cover. Even Zdenos don't have a disabled DOHC 400 - BentWrench was right .. :mad:
My son is presently touring California and he is authorized to rob the Hells Angels and FedEx it up here. Not sure if he is keen though.
 
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