What kind of clamps would you recommend? Are t-bolt clamps strong enough? The auto parts store probably only has those ugly u-clamps. I have never seen a store that sells t-bolt clamps and band clamps; I like to test fit before I order.
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skillzman1
XS400 Junkie
if you cant find clamps to your satisfaction...just get them welded on at a muffler shop...shouldn't cost much...the chrome will blue from the heat...but if the exhuast gets hot enough the pipes will likely blue anyhow.
A decent shop should be able to weld them up cleanly and no leakage problems to worry about.
I was looking at the same mufflers and will likely weld them on and just header wrap the rest of the head pipes and the union/welded section.
A decent shop should be able to weld them up cleanly and no leakage problems to worry about.
I was looking at the same mufflers and will likely weld them on and just header wrap the rest of the head pipes and the union/welded section.
I will recommend http://www.nichecycle.com/ if you're looking for mufflers. This is where I got my emgo shorty mufflers and the guy shipped within an hour of my online purchase!
Thanks for the suggestions. I came up with an idea, but if it doesn't work I will just bite the bullet and have the mufflers welded. The only problem that came to mind was getting the bike to run with no mufflers on. Would you just remove the entire header and bring that to the shop? My bike was not running right to begin with, but once I pulled the mufflers off it wouldn't start at all.
Thanks for the suggestions. I came up with an idea, but if it doesn't work I will just bite the bullet and have the mufflers welded. The only problem that came to mind was getting the bike to run with no mufflers on. Would you just remove the entire header and bring that to the shop? My bike was not running right to begin with, but once I pulled the mufflers off it wouldn't start at all.
skillzman1
XS400 Junkie
I would take the exhuast off and have it welded if thats the route you go...that way nobody messes with the bike etc,..
hardtailed77
Never Finished
Link no work-ey for me. lol
hardtailed77
Never Finished
I know a lot of people that just use clear silicone on the boots of the KZ400 and 440's. I've never had to repair mine, but I figured I would throw the info out there. I would consider it more of a temporary fix at best though. Just my two cents.
skillzman1
XS400 Junkie
new carb boots are like $45 on ebay...and from messing with torn boots in the past...new ones are well worth the eventual brain scratching aggravation.
Haha, you're probably right. I thought I would give it a try before buying new ones. What I found out, however, is that the base of the carb boot with the screw holes contains metal inside while the gasket sealing carb-side is pure rubber. I guess I am hoping that since they only had some cracking on the side farthest from the engine (carb side) the temperatures might be lower.
This is what the manufacturer claims:
"Liquid Tape is a rubber coating for use as electrical tape and insulation. This flexible coating exhibits excellent protection from acid, alkaline, and abrasion, as wells as sealing out moisture and salt permanently. Liquid Tape has the strongest dielectric protection on the market; 1,200 v/mil, 5 – 7 mils per coat. Our rubber based coating will not harden, unravel or become brittle in extreme weather conditions like our competitors' vinyl based product."
I won't be going far from home until I know the bike is reliable in general
This is what the manufacturer claims:
"Liquid Tape is a rubber coating for use as electrical tape and insulation. This flexible coating exhibits excellent protection from acid, alkaline, and abrasion, as wells as sealing out moisture and salt permanently. Liquid Tape has the strongest dielectric protection on the market; 1,200 v/mil, 5 – 7 mils per coat. Our rubber based coating will not harden, unravel or become brittle in extreme weather conditions like our competitors' vinyl based product."
I won't be going far from home until I know the bike is reliable in general
Oh boy; busy day.
The rear fender was painted and an enduro style tail light I found at a local shop was installed. I started fabricating a seat pan, but I am going to hold off on photos until I get a bit further along. The emgo shorty mufflers are now truly on, but holy crap was it a difficult job.
The emgo shortys are made of a very strong metal or it is just quite thick. I bought some serious t-bolt clamps and they did absolutely nothing. In the end I made some relief cuts on the mufflers and all seems well; I got a good strong attachment. Finally, I used the ultra ghetto ultra copper atv silicone as a gasket. After searching around a lot I actually found a video of someone on youtube using it to install an aftermarket muffler with the exact same clamps; after several months he claims to have no leaks.
So, anyway, here's a new photo.
The rear fender was painted and an enduro style tail light I found at a local shop was installed. I started fabricating a seat pan, but I am going to hold off on photos until I get a bit further along. The emgo shorty mufflers are now truly on, but holy crap was it a difficult job.
The emgo shortys are made of a very strong metal or it is just quite thick. I bought some serious t-bolt clamps and they did absolutely nothing. In the end I made some relief cuts on the mufflers and all seems well; I got a good strong attachment. Finally, I used the ultra ghetto ultra copper atv silicone as a gasket. After searching around a lot I actually found a video of someone on youtube using it to install an aftermarket muffler with the exact same clamps; after several months he claims to have no leaks.
So, anyway, here's a new photo.
Attachments
Front fender is painted. I hope this holds up for a little while (all rustoleum products). Float bowl gaskets should be coming today and I can probably try and get the bike started this weekend. It will be nice to know if my efforts so far have improved anything. I will be rejetting soon because I am going to be running crazy lean with these new short mufflers and pod filters.
80 grit, 3 layers of self etching primer, 3 layers of color, 2 layers of clear:
80 grit, 3 layers of self etching primer, 3 layers of color, 2 layers of clear:
Attachments
looking good 
Bad news The left side muffler was putting out some light white smoke as well as the crank case breather. I pulled the plug on that side and it definitely had some oil on it. I am not sure where to go from here. I have not changed the oil in the bike since I got it.
The left side muffler was putting out some light white smoke as well as the crank case breather. I pulled the plug on that side and it definitely had some oil on it. I am not sure where to go from here. I have not changed the oil in the bike since I got it.
lube the throttle cable and slightly extend the throttle tube off the handle bars, its probably binding on the handlebar.
that sounds like its running on one cylinder, are both exhausts hot?
that sounds like its running on one cylinder, are both exhausts hot?
You're right. The right side is cold, but it is giving a spark. I had a spare plug I put in the cable and it is jumping to the block when I hold it close.
Would oil that is too light in weight leak past the rings?
Would oil that is too light in weight leak past the rings?
a spark is ok when not under compression, but is it strong enough to ignite in the bore?
spray a bit of starting fluid/gas in the bore before you start and see if that side starts, maybe its a carb issue
spray a bit of starting fluid/gas in the bore before you start and see if that side starts, maybe its a carb issue
I fixed the throttle control. I used way too much grip glue and it found its way inside the throttle case sleeve onto the actual handle bar underneath; combine that with the fact that I put the grip on all the way and the sleeve at the end was making contact with the switch housing.
I lowered the floats to 27mm and cleaned the pilot jets out. It will idle on full choke but with any throttle it stalls out. The right side is still not firing. I don't have any starter fluid right now; would a small amount of gas work? I am going to try a different plug I have sitting here. If oil got into the cylinder could it also muck up and weaken the spark?
I lowered the floats to 27mm and cleaned the pilot jets out. It will idle on full choke but with any throttle it stalls out. The right side is still not firing. I don't have any starter fluid right now; would a small amount of gas work? I am going to try a different plug I have sitting here. If oil got into the cylinder could it also muck up and weaken the spark?
