Bike dies when clutch is released

ripcity

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I finally got my 1980 XS400 running well, but now when I shift into first gear and release the clutch, it dies no matter how much throttle I give it. Any suggestions?
 
Is the transmission jammed somehow? Try letting out the clutch with the engine running while the bike is up on the center stand and the back wheel can spin freely.
 
So it's running on both cylinders and the wheel definitely spins in first gear when it's up on the stand. It also spins in neutral, which I don't know if that's normal or not.
 
Jmd_forest, it dies letting the clutch out. It didn't die when I let the clutch out on the stand, but it dies with both wheels down. And Lupe, it does stop fairly easily with my foot, thanks.
 
Another idea: can you roll the bike with a gear in and the clutch held?
Maybe the clutch plates stick together.

Edit:
Hm, I think the symptom for sticky plates is somehow different, but you can try...
 
So you can idle OK in 1st gear for a while with the clutch handle pulled in but it dies when you start to let the clutch out?

Does it die all at once or sputter, sputter sputter, tries to keep running but dies?

While idleing can you give it gas and the engine responds well and seems "strong"?

Has this bike ever run correctly for you? If so what happened since then?

Have you ever tried to set the timing on the bike?
 
Yeah it idles great, but didn't sputter much when the clutch was let out. It was more like a fade in power. I recently lapped the valves, and I just adjusted the clearances. The bike is running at its best since I've had it. It responds to the throttle well when idling, and even with lots of throttle just fades off when I let the clutch out, but only when I'm on the bike.
 
With just having lapped the valves I'm inclined to think there is something in the timing not set correctly: cam timing or ignition timing. Other than that, I'm stumped.
 
I had this issue once, see if this helps. I remember it being....

your clutch adjustment. Loosen it entirely and follow the manual instructions for how to get it back to the correct length. You have to loosen the adjuster at the bar, then uncork the cover on the left side. Wrench the nut to the left (takes effort if I recall)
Once it's loose you will slowly tighten the Phillips head screw inside until it's just starting to get firm, then loosen it a 1/4 turn. Then you need to keep the Philips in place and move a socket over it while you tighten it. I did the same by estimating how far it turned and compensated by loosening the Philips the same amount. so if the turn of the nut to the right is 1/4, I added a 1/4 loosening to the Phillips. When I tightened the nut, the Phillips goes with it. You'll figure it out.



After that readjust the handle bar tension nut on your clutch cable.

When the clutch is out of adjustment it will allow the engine to jam and the bike will stall every time. This drove me mad the first time.
 
But if it's dying, that means the clutch is disengaged? if he's giving it a few revs, it should still take off.

Not some foul with the clutch safety switch being wired backwards if that's possible?

Wait, he mentioned it spins freely on the stand in gear.......... Have you tried doing a rolling start? Like roll the bike with it running, drop the clutch with revs?

Rear brake isn't catching on your shoe? (you never know :p)

Does the bike actually try and move, as if stalling through lack of power, or does it seem like something is physically stopping the bike from moving?
 
Last edited:
what he says is when he shifts into first gear and releases the clutch it dies...

You musta been up late wrenching buddy. Done it myself.
 
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