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clutch replacement
- Thread starter xadmp
- Start date
Charles
XS400 Addict
The anchor?? What's that?
The cable runs into the left side cover. It's rather obvious. The left rear engine cover should look like this:
Remove the black plug, and loosen the adjustor nut first. Then, there are 6 or 7 bolts holding the cover on. Remove the bolts, remove the cover and disconnect the cable from the clutch rod actuator.
The cable runs into the left side cover. It's rather obvious. The left rear engine cover should look like this:
Remove the black plug, and loosen the adjustor nut first. Then, there are 6 or 7 bolts holding the cover on. Remove the bolts, remove the cover and disconnect the cable from the clutch rod actuator.
Ok thanks. That's what I was intending to do but the nut wasn't budging. Does the shifter knob need to come off? Or will it come off with it? I'm new to this stuff so I'm basically counting on manuals and this forum to help me out. So I appreciate it in advance. Ill post a picture of it in a different thread to show you guys my bike.
I'm intrigued as to what this anchor is?
Anchors away!
Neither the black cover nor the corresponding adjustment nut found under it need to be touched in order to remove the cable. If you loosen the adjuster nut you may have to re calibrate the clutch next time you ride; this creates unnecessary work.
Neither the black cover nor the corresponding adjustment nut found under it need to be touched in order to remove the cable. If you loosen the adjuster nut you may have to re calibrate the clutch next time you ride; this creates unnecessary work.
by anchor i meant the part the barrel connects to..thats what i thought the manual piece said it was called..and im not quite sure how i would replace it if i dont take the black cover off..? bcware how do i replace this if i dont take the cover off?
I usually just unbolt the clutch lever and undo the cable perch on the handle bar and twist the ajuster so you have a clear line to pull cable through. Make sure ajuster is screwed all the way in to give the cable enough slack, pull cable out and through the slot, and then take it out of the lever. Undo side case and remove cable from its mount down there. Its pretty easy! Make sure you remember how it is routed when installing new one. Im with bc on the black cover and push rod ajuster nut, you dont need to touch it at all to replace the cable!
Charles
XS400 Addict
Yes, the gear selector will need to come off. I forgot to mention that.
He's replacing the cable, so he might need to re-adjust depending on how worn/stretched out the old cable was.
Rockrider
XS400 Enthusiast
I know this is an old post but thank you. Search function works great. This helped me out. Went through the manual and there are no details about removing cable unless Im completely burnt and missed. I used to tear things apart then look at book unless I had a problem. Now I look at book then dis-assemble. You guys give better directions then the book ever could. Thanks again.
gordonfi
XS400 Enthusiast
I was out for a ride this afternoon and during a shift, the clutch cable broke up in the lever assembly. Nice thing about this bike that I noticed, is that you don't always have to use the clutch to shift. I noticed it downshifing once. Forgot to use the clutch and geared down by accident. It went in! Went into the next gear too.
That was usefull information to know when I was suddenly without a clutch on the way home. So shifting with proper rpms instead of clutch got me home and I just had to stall it when i stopped. Or I cpould have used the kill switch. Yea! That's what the clutch is for! LOL.
Anyway, these things always happen when the parts store is just closing, or you don't have any money till payday. So I looked at the clotch lever and found the end inside with the cable broken off right where it went in. I remember that the adjustment was pretty far out before so I though there might be enough cable to just re-install the end piece. After I dug it out of the handle, I saw that it was soldered! So, I took each wire at the end of the cable and sanded it t get all clean. Used torch to melt out the solder inside of the end piece. I believe they used regular rosin core solder but I had some silver solder so decided to use that.
So, after all clean, I loaded the wires of the cable with the flux and added some inside of the endpiece too. The twisted them all back as close as I could to where they were. Threaded the cable through, making sure the larger diameter was to the outside end. That fills up with solder to hold better. Proceeded to silver solder it, adding more flux as I went along until it was full of solder including the cable on the other side.
I oiled the crap of everything and put it together. Ah Ha! It works! Maybe the $20.00 price tag would scare some away from doing it this way, but in my case, I didn't want to wait for another cable AND, until I read the forum here, was afraid of what was at the other end and I remember that the bolts were really rusted in on that cover plate. So I've just saved some possible frustration. If anyone wants to try this, be sure you know how to solder. If it is a poor job, it won't hold.
Oh yea, I had to readjust the clutch play under the rubber plug too. That was easy.
Anyway, for what it's worth.
That was usefull information to know when I was suddenly without a clutch on the way home. So shifting with proper rpms instead of clutch got me home and I just had to stall it when i stopped. Or I cpould have used the kill switch. Yea! That's what the clutch is for! LOL.
Anyway, these things always happen when the parts store is just closing, or you don't have any money till payday. So I looked at the clotch lever and found the end inside with the cable broken off right where it went in. I remember that the adjustment was pretty far out before so I though there might be enough cable to just re-install the end piece. After I dug it out of the handle, I saw that it was soldered! So, I took each wire at the end of the cable and sanded it t get all clean. Used torch to melt out the solder inside of the end piece. I believe they used regular rosin core solder but I had some silver solder so decided to use that.
So, after all clean, I loaded the wires of the cable with the flux and added some inside of the endpiece too. The twisted them all back as close as I could to where they were. Threaded the cable through, making sure the larger diameter was to the outside end. That fills up with solder to hold better. Proceeded to silver solder it, adding more flux as I went along until it was full of solder including the cable on the other side.
I oiled the crap of everything and put it together. Ah Ha! It works! Maybe the $20.00 price tag would scare some away from doing it this way, but in my case, I didn't want to wait for another cable AND, until I read the forum here, was afraid of what was at the other end and I remember that the bolts were really rusted in on that cover plate. So I've just saved some possible frustration. If anyone wants to try this, be sure you know how to solder. If it is a poor job, it won't hold.
Oh yea, I had to readjust the clutch play under the rubber plug too. That was easy.
Anyway, for what it's worth.
Spence654
XS400 Member
I'm currently trying to route a new oem cable onto my bike to no avail. Does anyone have any pictures on how to route the cable properly?
