crankcase bolt torque ft lb's?

subt3rra

subt3rra

SUBT3RRA
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Hey guys

I replaced a leaky gasket and need to know what the torque setting should be for the left side crankcase cover bolts...

Anyone? Don't want to leak all over my new pipe wrap...

Thanks
 
Just don't go too tight on these. I have a few stripped out from a previous owner :mad: I will get around to putting a helicoil in them one of these days!
 
If you have a leak on the left side it may have nothing to do with the bolts. There is a rubber seal on the cover where the stator wires come out; if this isn't sealed well it will leak no matter how tight the bolts are. Also, a left side leak may also be a push-rod oil seal; the push-rod seal is probably the most common leak site on the left side because most people don't remove the stator cover; they typically just take off the smaller round cover.
 
I'll check the rubber on the stator. I removed the crankcase cover as that's where the leak was. The round cover was removed first to loosen the bolts that hold the stator (I believe) in place, to get the next cover where the leak was. Stator needs to be loose to get it off. I did not remove the stator wires so maybe that is contributing...

Leak was at the bottom left bolt (happens to be 5 mil head on mine). The drip is right at the seam where cover meets case, on the kickstand it runs out to that bolt and drips and only happened when running.

So I cover all bases where is the push rod seal? Thanks
 
I had the same kind of leak; it was running down the kickstand, etc, but it was actually the push-rod oil seal. The oil will run down the engine and drip off the lowest point; the lowest point is the seam of the stator cover or the kick stand. The way to be certain is to wipe off and clean the engine including the (likely disgustingly filthy) area behind the front sprocket cover. The push-rod seal is behind the front sprocket cover just to the left of, and behind, the front sprocket. The push-rod seal will have a rod coming out of it. This is the rod that your clutch cable is pushing on to spread the clutch plates on the other side of the engine.

The front sprocket cover has a ball bearing in it held in place by grease. Make sure it doesn't fall out and get lost.
 
I just found the correct amount and I was off a few lbs. It's 7lbs for side case bolts:)
 
Thanks XSChris

Checked and the torque is fine.

I suspect it is the clutch push rod seal as bcware said. I have found them (though they are becoming hard to find, at least in my neck of the woods).

I will diagnose this weekend. Assuming this is what I need to do, it looks like this could be as simple as taking the clutch actuator apart, or, depending on how the seal works, could mean splitting the case. (ugh!)

I would appreciate a verbal preview of what is involved in this. It's my daily rider, meaning I don't have any other transportation, so I will have to plan how and when I do this...

Thanks again for the help!
 
The seals can be ordered online.

The push rod seal doesn't need the case to be split; simply pull out the rod and pry it out with a flat head screw driver carefully; don't scrape the metal "wall" the seal sits against, just catch the inner lip of the seal. If you have a junk driver you can bend it at a 45 or 90-degree angle to make removal easier.

I can't remember if anything else needs to be removed to get the seal out; I've worked on too many bikes recently in that area.

I removed the gas tank and leaned the bike against something like a work bench; this will keep the oil from spilling out.

Pull the rod out and set it aside.

Pry the seal out without scratching the walls.

Inspect the edges of the sealed area. Are they sharp? If so file them down with something very fine so that a smooth bevel is made. This is probably optional, but sometimes the edge can be sharp enough to cut the new seal.

Lube the new seal and pop it in squarely; I believe I used the flat back of a socket of the same size to drive it in, but it doesn't take much force.

Lube the rod a bit and insert it.

Done.

If the new seal continues to leak repeat the process, inspect those edges again and the sealing surface/walls. Is there any damage or sharp bits? Consider adding some non-hardening sealant to the outer edge of the seal. If sealant is used I would remove all of the oil from the sealing surface first. The sealant will act as the lube. Lean the bike over and dab the sealing surface with something like a q-tip soaked in solvent.
 
Great! glad I don't have to go too deep to deal with this.

Another question: I can find XS650 seals easy. They wouldn't happen to be the same as the 400 would they? Mostly asking for "down the road" as I said it wasn't easy to find close to home. Mike's XS has 650 seals, and I can find them local as well...

May buy a few if not interchangeable.

Thanks
 
No. The xs650's seal will not work. There are some to be found on ebay or just google the part number and see what comes up.
 

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