Drive Sprocket Nut, Striped :(

arfstrom

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On my way to the VA Hospital, and I lost power, it did seem like the motor went out. (okay it did) Then once I got to a stop, There was nothing out of the ordinary, until my wife showed up with tools.
Note: I was able to push the bike with it in gear, to somewhere out of the way.

So while trying to thread the nut back on, it wasn't taking. a closer examination, and the threads were gone. (90179-18020-00), so getting the part number, my choices are drive 90 miles one way for the part (11 bucks) or leave the bike where its at until Friday, when the part gets in at other places near there. I think I am leaning on leaving the bike until Friday. order the part today.
 
Here is that nut:banghead: new one is on order, U-haul had a trailer for about 15 bucks, Friend had a truck with a hitch, and I had a bike with a bad nut
 

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Not good to have a bad nut. How does the shaft look? How did you strip it?
 
Assumptions? Mine is that:
1. the bendy shim, I kept reusing the old segment, so instead of having a solid backing on the nut, the partial hold, wasn't solid.
2. The nut wasn't torqued down, I guess I never seen the torque values before this weekend, I just tighten it down to a point, where I figured it was good. with out super tightening it.
3.When the bike came to a stop, it had no power from the engine, and the engine seem to have died. I tried to start it, while coasting to a stop, it was a no go.Some leakage from the clutch rod,

The shaft appears to be fine. Threads appear to be intact. I will get a new nut tomorrow, or Monday.
 
All right, after looking at the shaft, I am going to have to say it is shot. :gun::guns::shootme: Looks like my winter gig, is going to be replacing the shaft.

Any other suggestions?
Tobie

PS, I put the Kickstand hole, and spring, just to show the wear. which means, I am looking for my welding buddy, to drop a bead right there, (to make the hole round again. That is a new spring next to the worn spring.
 

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How common are shafts and what do they cost?
Depending on cost you could have new threads cut one size smaller and use a smaller nut.
I wouldn't think there would ever be enough force applied to the nut that a smaller one would be a problem.
 
If you can't re-thread it and get another nut to fit I have one that I can sell you that is in good shape. $22 shipped.
 

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Thanks Chris, I will probably follow up with you, after payday. (like you said, I will see if I can get a die, that big M16 or M17, with a pitch of 1.5 or 1.25.

I just bought a new nut, which is why I was looking at it closer today.

Ever notice its only worth your time, if you can do something? That gives me the excuse now to pull the carbs, and replace the butterfly o-rings, and put better LED lights in the front turn signals.


do you have extra butterfly O-rings handy? I suppose the old circlips will be fine?, or should I order new ones? I really didn't want to get this deep into the motor this soon after my last rebuild...
 
I was going to say that you could drill and tap the shaft for a sprocket bolt instead of a sprocket nut (my friend did this for his DRZ400 on which the threaded end of the shaft disappeared while he was riding :shrug:). $22 from Chris seems like a darn good deal though despite the work to do a lower end rebuild.
 
I think I can afford it this week end!

Seems to be a better option than superglue wacking it with a something or other.
 
I was looking at ThePsuedoMonkeys rebuild pics, and started wondering, is there some new circlips I am going to need to start pulling apart the gears, and replacing? Or if I am careful enough, that shouldn't be an issue? I Think I have everthing, unless I need to get some new circlips, or something.

full
 
Bottom end is done, I reused everything.Nothing new except for what Xschris sent me. Gasket.
Had a list of 4 things to review on the way back to running condition
  1. Replace transmission. Done
  2. starter seal, replace Done
  3. Tach noise, sounds rubbing 50%
  4. wrap muffler
  5. Carb butterfly valve replacement. may post pone until first test drive

Starter seal story, I suspect the seal is allowing oil though, and contributing to the oil sludge mess in the drive gear compartment. My first purchase, I found a nice fat seal, it was too fat. cost me $1.50 USD for 50 of them. Then my next trip, I got what appears to be the next size skinny-ier. It didn't fill the grove perfectly, since the fat one would not fit, So I put the fat one all the way onto the base of the motor, and two more seals hoping that will be the end of the oily mess.

Tach Gear, see pic, It seems to me I started a thread with a video, and I was hoping to get feedback, on what that noise is. I dont' thinkanyone guessed the E-Clip is on two groves. I was starting to think i had overtightned the bolts on the head. Silly me.
 

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Now we know what the cause of that noise is.
Is that the stock e-clip? I guess it's not in right but mine seems to hug the groove much closer. Could be the photo.

Are you looking to replace the actual brass butterfly/throttle plates?
Seems like they're not too common. Had a quick look online the other day since mine are pretty beaten up.
 
I have a company near me called Fastenal, and they tend to have things that are close. Today, I took my head peice, and found a e-clip that fits better. The new one is 1/2" E-Clip. I guess the other one must have been 5/8"s It was just resting there.

My carbs? I am looking at replacing the butterfly oring. When I started working on this bike, I boiled the carbs in vinegar or lemon juice. which means I did not take out the butterfly oring.

My mileage has never been where I suspect it to be. granted its better than either of my cars. I have an hour or so of work left on the bike, I fully expect it to start with no other problems. I might wait a week for the last two things (butterfly valve oring, and wrap the muffler) Then I can take the bike to work tomorrow!

The tease's for that o-ring is a taiwan-ese company that is selling viton oring for this carb. I thinkI have picked up the right ones here locally. They should be fine, as long as I did a good job of picking them. I have forgotten where I got them from. I must be getting close to retirement age.
 
I have three sets of the viton butterfly shaft seals from Thailand. Great little seals. Cheaper than OEM and better as far as I can tell.
 
@BBS360 Is there a link for these viton seals? I'm interested in a set myself. I have read about them in multiple posts now, but a google search only gets me to the mikesxs butterfly seals.
 
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