first thing to replace/fix on a 79 xs400?

[sly409]

Hey guys,

So I started tearing down my bike to start fixing, repairing and replacing parts. I've decided to do safety as first priority, then functionality, then mods for "looks" last.

Some of things I was thinking of replacing/repairing/fixing for safety are:
-replacing tires (front is completely bald and rear looks to be maybe 1-2 years old but I dont want to chance it)
-replacing chain
-replacing clutch cable
-replacing headlight, brake light and turn signals with smaller updated ones since my originals never worked

For functionality are:
-replacing fuse box with updated blade type
-replace leaking petcock
-derusting tank using electrolysis
-replacing old inline fuel filter
-changing oil and filter
-replacing spark plugs and wires connecting them to the coils
-new battery since I accidently drained mine leaving the ignition on (gonna go with small 12v 5amp battery and relocate somewhere else also)
-replacing battery cables for both pos and neg since my current ones are pretty tore up (pos cable is torn almost all the way through! )
-installing a breather on crankcase since PO didnt do that even thought he replaced the airbox with pods
-disassemble carbs and clean out thoroughly and readjusting the settings for it (bike starts up fine but idles very high)
-replacing tach cable since the stock one is broken

and for "looks" are:
-making custom cafe seat
-cutting rear end bars off, welding new slimmer loop on for cafe seat
-shaving off all tabs that are used to hold things like battery box, passenger pegs etc
-making knee dents on the tank and repainting
-replacing gauges with mini gauges for a more updated and cleaner look
-polishing rust off header pipes
-cutting my rusted out mufflers in half to make some shorty muffles until I can afford to buy new replacments

I eventually plan on taking the bike apart down to the frame to have it powder coated but I'm gonna wait till its cold season and I know I wont be riding for a while. Maybe take apart the motor and redo everything there too. Right now I just wanna get it up and running and safe to use so I can use it to get to school/work.

Basically my question for you guys is am I missing anything for the safety and functionality categories? And I'm open to suggestions if there is anything from the categories that should be moved around. Thanks folks!


Scotty

 

[Lou Ranger]

... and rear looks to be maybe 1-2 years old but I dont want to chance it) ...
-new battery since I accidently drained mine leaving the ignition on (gonna go with small 12v 5amp battery and relocate somewhere else also)

You might be able to save a few bucks initially if you could verify the age of the year tire and use it (if it's less than 3 or 4), and re-hab the battery well enough to last you for the rest of this season - or at least until that cold California winter (really?) hits ....

There's a 4 digit code on the tire giving the date it was made:the first 2 numbers identify the week and the last 2 the year in which the tire was produced.

If you just drained the battery, it may take a charge from a proper charger - and even if you boiled it dry (like I did), try filling it up with distilled water and charging. Mine came back and, while I don't expect it will last me all the way to Dec 4th again this year, I think it will make it to the fall at least.

 

[cyclocrossfool]

w/ a custom/cafe seat you might need rearsets. dont put on clipons/clubmans without them. a superbike type bar w/ cafe seat and stock pegs might be ok ??. but clipons/ clubmans w/o rearsets = FAIL. i dont know if id start cutting tabs. later on in your project you might need them. same goes w/ the frame. keep a rear fender of some sort. and make sure your pods are K & N or the uni foam ones. people put on cheap emgo and they dont work.

 

[sly409]

w/ a custom/cafe seat you might need rearsets. dont put on clipons/clubmans without them. a superbike type bar w/ cafe seat and stock pegs might be ok ??. but clipons/ clubmans w/o rearsets = FAIL. i dont know if id start cutting tabs. later on in your project you might need them. same goes w/ the frame. keep a rear fender of some sort. and make sure your pods are K & N or the uni foam ones. people put on cheap emgo and they dont work.

I was thinking of going with drag bars or maybe superbike bars. Clipons/clubman angles seem a little extreme for my wrists. As for rearsets I'm gonna have to save up for them way later on down the road. I'm gonna have to look into replacing the pods with some k&ns. I think the PO used emgo ones lol As for the rear fender is there a reason why I should keep them? For the cafe seat I was planning on doing something like the picture to the left below. A shorter seat and hump and I was planning on sealing off the loop under the seat with sheet metal or something like the other picture on the right.

 

[cyclocrossfool]

As for the rear fender is there a reason why I should keep them? For the cafe seat I was planning on doing something like the picture to the left below. A shorter seat and hump and I was planning on sealing off the loop under the seat with sheet metal or something like the other picture on the right.

youll need something between your carb filters and the tire. if you happen to get caught out when its wet. water flinging up on your engine is what i ment.

 

[sly409]

You might be able to save a few bucks initially if you could verify the age of the year tire and use it (if it's less than 3 or 4), and re-hab the battery well enough to last you for the rest of this season - or at least until that cold California winter (really?) hits ....

There's a 4 digit code on the tire giving the date it was made:the first 2 numbers identify the week and the last 2 the year in which the tire was produced.

If you just drained the battery, it may take a charge from a proper charger - and even if you boiled it dry (like I did), try filling it up with distilled water and charging. Mine came back and, while I don't expect it will last me all the way to Dec 4th again this year, I think it will make it to the fall at least.

I'll have to look into the tire. I'm willing to spend a few bucks on tires instead of having to worry about them blowing out on me while riding . As for the battery I was planning on going with a small SLA that'll fit under the seat pan or something. Still figuring out how I'm gonna fabricate all that. And yea by winter I dont mean the temperature as much as I mean the rainy season haha. Cali = 70-80 year round most of the time lol.

 

[vectra]

if you want to sell the grab bar let me know been looking for one to go on my 79

 

[JPaganel]

I am up to three Yamahas now. The one thing I had to do on all of them was replace the fuse box. I'd start with that. It's relatively cheap and simple, and it will cure a bunch of electrical gremlins.

 

[drewpy]

I think these bikes are some sort of rite of passage in life.

a metaphor for triumph over adversity.

We always come out of it having "been through the mill" unless your a quitter and sell it as a "project"

 

[cyclocrossfool]

I am up to three Yamahas now. The one thing I had to do on all of them was replace the fuse box. I'd start with that. It's relatively cheap and simple, and it will cure a bunch of electrical gremlins.

what did you replace it with?. mine is still stock. sounds like a good idea to change it

 

[JPaganel]

what did you replace it with?. mine is still stock. sounds like a good idea to change it

On the XS I used this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...7_-1_-1&keyword=fuse+block&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172

It actually fit into the stock location with stock screws with only a little bend in the bracket.

On the XJ I used this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...7_-1_-1&keyword=fuse+block&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172

The XJ doesn't have as much room under the box.

The fusebox on my XS literally fell apart on me one day as I was leaving work. The clips that hold the fuses are made form some sort of crap metal that gets brittle. They crack internally and you often can't see they are broken.

 

[sly409]

On the XS I used this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...7_-1_-1&keyword=fuse+block&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172

It actually fit into the stock location with stock screws with only a little bend in the bracket.

On the XJ I used this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...7_-1_-1&keyword=fuse+block&pt=N1177&ppt=C0172

The XJ doesn't have as much room under the box.

The fusebox on my XS literally fell apart on me one day as I was leaving work. The clips that hold the fuses are made form some sort of crap metal that gets brittle. They crack internally and you often can't see they are broken.

Thank you! mine fuse box's top cover doesnt even stay shut! And the little clips holding the glass fuses are all broken. The PO litterally taped it all down lol. I'll check out oreilly tomorrow

 

[Ironhead]

Basically my question for you guys is am I missing anything for the safety and functionality categories?

Brakes??

 

[sly409]

brakes seem to be working fine just rolling up and down the driveway, should I bleed them and change the fluid? are there any tests I should do to determine if its safe to use?

 

[vectra]

what i did what pull them apart and gave them a good clean
rotors was ok so i just change the pads and fluid to fix my problem with them
now i can trust them
better to be safe then think they are ok and come to find out when you need them
they don't work like they should

 

[sly409]

You might be able to save a few bucks initially if you could verify the age of the year tire and use it (if it's less than 3 or 4), and re-hab the battery well enough to last you for the rest of this season - or at least until that cold California winter (really?) hits ....

There's a 4 digit code on the tire giving the date it was made:the first 2 numbers identify the week and the last 2 the year in which the tire was produced.

If you just drained the battery, it may take a charge from a proper charger - and even if you boiled it dry (like I did), try filling it up with distilled water and charging. Mine came back and, while I don't expect it will last me all the way to Dec 4th again this year, I think it will make it to the fall at least.

So I just remembered to look at the tire code tonite and it says 4008. Sounds like 40th week of 2008. October-ish 2008? well that puts it at 4 years so i better not risk it. I did purchase a BatteryMinder plus and a 12v5ah mini battery that I plan on mounting somewhere hidden in the seat cowl after I fabricate on

 

[Lou Ranger]

So I just remembered to look at the tire code tonite and it says 4008. Sounds like 40th week of 2008. October-ish 2008? well that puts it at 4 years so i better not risk it ...

Depending on how the bike has been stored for the past 4 years (i.e., if NOT outside, not in direct sun, not a garden shed that heats up to 130º every afternoon) then I personally wouldn't worry about using the tire at least up until the Simi Monsoon season this fall. But it is a personal decision.

I think the 3-4 yr. rule of thumb assumes that a tire sits in the distribution pipeline for an additional year before an owner gets it onto his bike. Here are a couple of articles which might give you some comfort unless you mostly drive on Interstates and get the odd ticket.

http://www.munising.com/motorcycle_tires_faq.html

http://blog.unsafemotorcycles.com/2010/09/motorcycle-tires-age-matters.html​

 

[JPaganel]

what i did what pull them apart and gave them a good clean
rotors was ok so i just change the pads and fluid to fix my problem with them
now i can trust them

Maybe. Have a look at the brake hose. We are talking tires going bad from age, and the hose is made from rubber, same as the tires. Chances are that hose is 35 year old rubber.

I'm going to try and have a replacement stainless braided hose made at an industrial hydraulic hose supplier to replace mine. It kinda worries me.