Has anyone ever gotten their airbox to carb boots back on?

GenusHomo

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:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

The PO didn't have the air box to carb boots connected when I bought the bike (1982 Maxim, btw) and even with it bolted in place it's like the boots are 1/4-1/2" too short to run flush with the carburetors(nowhere near close enough for the hose clamps to hold).

Even with the box completely unbolted I can't press on the box hard enough to make it flush with the carbs. I checked the wires that run underneath, but they seem to be as stashed away as possible.

Anybody ever get theirs back on? Or did everyone just sawzall the thing out, rejet, and run pods?

I really wanted to keep everything stock, but this is becoming far too irritating.

PS-is there an easy way to take the box out without ruining it? I figure some crazy person might want to buy it.
 
It's a cast-iron bitch to get the airbox connected to the carbs. I spent hours fighting with it and never could get it back together. That's why I sawzalled the thing out and bought new jets and pod filters. Maybe unbolting the top of the engine and swinging it into position would help get things together, I don't know. I couldn't see me spending half a day just getting the carbs hooked back up while trying to get them clean and adjusted. If somebody sold an accordion-pleated stretchable tube as a replacement I would have been thrilled to keep the rest of the stock setup. The stock rigid tubes are a nightmare...
 
I have had this problem. I ended up managing to get it all connected by pulling the carbs out of the intake boots (between the cylinder and the carbs) a little. Still, it annoys the cr*p out of me that it doesn't just fit. Now my carbs aren't fully into my intake boots, nor are they securely connected to the airbox. But somehow it works...

If I ever have the extra time to work on it some more, I think I'm gonna add some hose to the airbox somehow. Maybe get some epoxy of some kind, and glue on some more rubber onto the airbox.
 
Not knowing what the dohc intake boots and airbox setup looks like Im going to throw this out there as suggestion,Can you use radiator hose to connect them together.?
 
Scorpio-Where the boots connect to the airbox is like a grommet. Then again it doesn't fit in that tight(I can spin mine), maybe some tight fitting hose would do the trick, it's cheap so I might give it a shot.
 
I've never had mine off, but have been told that if you unbolt all of the engine bolts but the bottom one, you can "lower" the engine using a hydraulic jack so that it swings forward and down. The jack let you raise it back easily to re-install the bolts. Would that give you better access?

Another idea which a friend used on a Honda was to heat the tubes from the airbox with a hair dryer. This expanded and softened them just enough to jam them on all the way. He also used a very thin coat of some kind of lube - something compatible with the rubber tubes.
 
I don't think loosening the engine will help, it'll come back up to its original position anyways. Radiator hose might work though.

Problem is just that everything is just a bit short. Either the intake boots need to be longer, the carb body needs to be longer, or the airbox connectors need to be longer by about 1/2 an inch. I think 3/4 would make it a tight squeeze, but would still work as well.

I'd say the best location to add some extra hose is definitely between the carb and the airbox, this is the least critical place (it doesn't mess up your mixture if it's not 100% airtight)
 
Well it might be not the best solution but it works for me :)

Loosen all airbox bolts. Pull boots out from the airbox (from notch) so they rotate freely. Tighten boots to carbs and then remount airbox back. The lip of boots will press against airbox with some pressure and will provide seal (if not. Some rubber o-ring or seal might help).

Hope this helps :)
 

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Dang, Arturs, I'd probably just do that but I have everything but the stupid swing arm bolt off now, lol. With the pressure of the airbox up against it it probably works just fine.

Just waiting for a couple of people to be around so I can have one hold the handlebars and one lift the center of the bike a couple inches while I pull out the airbox.

I'd love to service the swing arm bearings, but the damn thing won't bang out (with a punch and 4 lb. sledge). I threw some PB blaster stuff on it, maybe better luck tomorrow.

Any Pods/Jets recommendations? I'm probably gonna go with 45 pilots and 140 mains. This would be with pods and stock exhaust. I'd buy a variety of jets, but I just can't afford it.
 
I'd love to service the swing arm bearings, but the damn thing won't bang out (with a punch and 4 lb. sledge). I threw some PB blaster stuff on it, maybe better luck tomorrow.

Any Pods/Jets recommendations? I'm probably gonna go with 45 pilots and 140 mains. This would be with pods and stock exhaust. I'd buy a variety of jets, but I just can't afford it.

If the swingarm bolt won't come out, chances are good that it has rusted to the bushing. No amount of lube will help as it can't get in to where it needs to be. Been there and tried everything including oxy-acetylene torch for heat, an air hammer, and 6 lb sledge hammer. I ended up drilling the head and shank of the bolt off so that I could get the swingarm off.

With stock exhaust, 140 mains will probably be too rich. I'd suggest 135's as a starting point. 45 pilots may be okay. :shrug: You will have to test and tune. Jets are cheap enough that it is worth ordering a bunch of them at once to save on shipping charges...
 
Jeez Dave thanks for the bad news, lol, I actually read your thread about your swingarm problems and it scared the crap out of me!

I think if I drop the exhaust I'll be able to drop the swingarm down far enough to get the box out. The bolt seems nice and sturdy and it swings nicely, maybe I'll tap a zert into the center of it and pump a bunch of grease in there. Maybe sometime down the line that'll make it easier to bang out.

Thanks for the jetting suggestion, that's where I'll start with the main. Do you get your jets from mikexs or somewhere else?
 
... maybe I'll tap a zert into the center of it and pump a bunch of grease in there ...
OH! If you do that, could you do a thread on how to do it?

I didn't know the technical term was "zert". First "nubbins" now "zerts". The things one can learn on here!
If a zert is what I think it is, I have seen little blister packs of them on sale in auto supply-type places. They are cheap.

But no where on the packaging does it say what one is supposed to do with them :banghead: other than squirt grease through them when installed. :doh: I actually already knew that part.
 
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I have to see if my brother still has his tap/die set. Basically you just drill a hole where the zert wont be in the way and run a thread chaser that matches the zert and screw the zert in (maybe with some thread sealer). Then pump til you see grease come out the sides. I havn't done one in awhile, but this looks like it's a prime candidate for a zert.

If I get around to it soon I'll do a write up with some pics, I should probably contribute at least something to this site with all the amazing info.


Oh and Hurray! The box is out!!! I didn't have to drop the exhaust or the swingarm. I just removed the black safety bar from the wheel and the swingarm and the swingarm pushed down far enough for me to wriggle the damn airbox free.

I feel like I just killed a buffalo with my bare hands and ripped it's heart out. There is soooooo much space in the center of my bike now, so many possibilities running through my head.

Anybody know a good alternative battery placement thread?
 
"Zerk". A grease fitting is called a Zerk fitting. ;)

Adding a Zerk fitting to the swingarm may get some grease into the bearings, if you pump half a cartridge of grease into it. But it won't make up for the worn or rusted out bearings. Nor will it get grease into the bushing. The bolt is now a fixture. If your swingarm has noticeable freeplay, the bearings are probably shot and you will have to deal with it in short order as it will get worse quickly.

Sorry, be be the bearer of bad news...
 
I decided the original boots to air box system was a waste of time.
Will be shopping for thick wall pipe and making stacks with K&N filters real soon.
Got the basic figure out how it's done from 16V GTI Dave.
Found 2 inch ID pipe but it is 2 3/8 OD. Will try and find thicker wall for 2 1/2 inch OD'

Unkle Crusty
 
Most of the problem is they shrink over time. Probably from heat cycling. My klr250 carb to box boot was the same way. 1/4 short. Put it side by side with a new oem one...yup. noticably shorter. Had to replace all 4 on my kz650 too.
 
If anyone else in the future comes across this thread like I did in a panic. I've got a quick no budget fix for those who desperately need it done until they get pods/jets.

Only thing you need is some form of grinder and elbow grease (This was on my 1983 Maxim 400)


1. Locate the section the hose clamp goes over, then locate the protruding ring you need to grind.
noPPyGh.jpg




2. Becareful grinding down the ring, don't over do it or get to close to the other ring on the opposite side of the gap.
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3. Install with a bit of elbow grease from inside the airbox with hand varius tools like a flathead covered in electrical tape and maybe some pliers. (varying hand size may have different troubles, small easy....big hard)
2wsfT04.jpg

Y9BJRV8.jpg


This was my "oh crap, I'm sick of fighting this for 6+ hours I just want it fixed. So far everything feels fine, idle was the same as before. No powerloss, No backfires, just like it was before the carb cleaning *haven't rode it yet*)

Oh and P.s. Try and do the far side first. I regretted doing the closer boot first as a test to see if what I had done worked........

Hope this helps future carb cleaners ;)
 
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