Heated Grips ... Can My Bike Handle Them?

robindean

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I just ordered these specific grips with the default "High, Low, Off" switch ...

http://www.hotgrips.com/store.php?crn=203&rn=139&action=show_detail

The specs are listed. My alternator is stock.

I already have one power source drawing from the battery ... a standard "cigarette lighter" power output that charges my mobile phone (low voltage) while I use it's GPS.

I've heard others speak of how important it is to keep track of your power draw, so as not to fry your bike's wires/circuits. I very much want to install these grips. I will, at some point, be running the heated grips (on high), the phone's GPS (low voltage charge) as well as the stock elements (lights at night).

Will my bike's stock electrical setup be enough? :shrug:
If not, what steps should I take?
 
Well, that's around 40 watts. I'm no expert on the charging system of DOHC bikes, but I know I would never try that on my SOHC. A smart phone draws very little power, maybe 2.5 watts, so you can see the big difference. If I wanted to do this, I'd convert all my lights over to LED and run the lowest wattage headlight I could that is safe.

So- I have no definitive answer, but I'd love to know the answer.
 
Are there LED bulbs that will simply fit in place of my stock bulbs or would I need to go through some elaborate process? Sources?

As always, thanks HoughMade :)
 
A friend of mine asks ... "Can you find the spec for your electrical system in watts or in amps? That would be a start."
I don't see anything specific in the manual, although I do see something that reads "When performing an Alternator output check, battery voltage on the meter should be 14.5 v with a maximum allowable variation of .3v"

Not sure if that applies but, if anyone knows the specifics, I'd love to have 'em.
 
I went through the same thing a few years ago with a 250 motor scooter that had the same marginal charging system as our cycles. I used a system with an amp draw of only a couple of amps - 2.x low & 3.x high, IIRC. Offset the amp drain increase by installing LED tail/stop bulbs, if you haven't already done so. Of course, if you have the LED bulbs and have installed a 55/60W headlight bulb, your amp drain will still go up with the addition of the grip heaters. My set of heaters were adhesive pads installed under any grip of your choice. What you linked says 3 amp draw - not too bad as many with heaters built into grips are higher.
 
If you replace the brake/tail light with the right LED lamps, nothing else needs to be done. Changing turn signals will require changing the flasher to one that is made for LEDs (that's the easier way, this site is full of threads with people trying to roll their own to get LEDs to flash).

I run a 35w/35w headlight, which seems to work fine for me, but if you plan on running higher speeds at night, you better stick with the stock wattage.
 
So, what I'm getting from this is that replacing the tail lamp bulb with an LED is a simple switch out. That's cool!

Then, what about the headlamp? Do they make a simple LED replacement for headlamp bulbs?

EDIT: I'm having trouble finding a source for a simple replacement bulb that is LED. I see a lot of custom housings and all of that noise but ... I'm hoping to just buy an LED bulb for my existing housing. Anyone have a resource to purchase somethign of this nature?
 
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So, what I'm getting from this is that replacing the tail lamp bulb with an LED is a simple switch out. That's cool!

Then, what about the headlamp? Do they make a simple LED replacement for headlamp bulbs?

EDIT: I'm having trouble finding a source for a simple replacement bulb that is LED. I see a lot of custom housings and all of that noise but ... I'm hoping to just buy an LED bulb for my existing housing. Anyone have a resource to purchase something of this nature?

Yep, simple switch for the tail/stop bulbs. You need an 1157 bulb. The problem with installing LED bulbs in older lamps is that the reflector and lens were designed for the illumination characteristics of filament bulbs. LED bulbs have vastly different "directions" of light emission. If you don't select the correct design LED bulb you can end up with a tail light that emits less light - and that's not a good thing! The ebay seller I have used for a few years is currently not listing anything so I can't refer him to you for which design LED bulb will work best in your tail lamp.

AFAIK there are no satisfactory LED headlight bulbs that give off enough light for night driving. There are LED headlight bulbs that are used in vehicles just for show purposes. Some folks have installed a single HID bulb. The HID bulbs are supposed to use only 35 watts after warm up but do consume more at start up.
 
Thank you, everyone. This is great information!

So, the tail is an 1157. What about all of the others? The headlamp? Are the signals all the same?
 
The 1157 is only for the two tail/stop bulbs. Off the top of my head I don't know the numbers for the turn signal bulbs. Original headlamps are sealed beam units (30/40 watts) and the entire unit is replaced. If your original headlight was replaced with a reflector allowing use of just a replacement bulb, then the bulb most likely is an H4 which would be a 55/60 (watts low/high) bulb.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-BAY15D...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eba56c147

is what i used on my tail lights and they work good. super bright too
turn signals I could only use 2 leds and 2 stock bulbs and still have a 2 prong flasher work for me.. was the best I could do :p

Actually, he is the guy I have bought from. Must have lost the link to his store. Yep, good tail/stop bulbs for our older lights. When installed, you will notice that your headlight no longer dims when brakes are applied - but it will when turn signals are used.

Novel idea about using 1 filament and 1 LED bulb in turn signals. Reduces the amp draw by about 50% since LED bulbs consume almost no amps.
 
If I use 1 standard and one LED in each signal, is it sensible to put both LEDs up front / in back rather than yin-yanging the entire set up with a filament/LED combo to the front/back?
 
If I use 1 standard and one LED in each signal, is it sensible to put both LEDs up front / in back rather than yin-yanging the entire set up with a filament/LED combo to the front/back?
thats what I did with mine. I got both my led's in the rear turn signals and 2 standards up front. I had to replace the stock flasher with a 2 prong auto flasher available for cheap at any auto store. If I put anymore then 2 leds in it wouldn't work.. wouldn't flash
 
My first attempt at installing heated grips ended in failure with a bit of mental collapse. While I'm completely in tune with the wiring diagram, I have zero talent for wiring and soldering. I could sure use a lifeline.

If any of you live in (or near) Chicago and are up for helping me out, I'd be very grateful. Pizza and beer on me.

On the upside, I was able to reroute some typical wiring to their proper locations (Chewie's Motorbikes didn't use the wire guides to position my tender access or auxiliary power supply).
 
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