Help getting my bike running

Mine did that whirring/whizzing sound sometimes when it didn't start. When using the kick start make sure the bike is in neutral and I believe you need to hold in the clutch when e starting. If you flooded the engine you may need to give it some time check the plugs to see if they are wet/fouled they won't spark if they are too wet from the gas. Check your oil level. If you had the wrong float height and fed gas it may leak down into the oil.

The first start is the hardest maybe a little starter fluid to help it out.

With your bottle method does it have a breather hole that allows the gas to flow?

+1 fully charged battery.

Did you ever check the compression?

Do you have the stock air boxes and jets? Maybe get it started like that and then do mods after.
 
I'm sure the battery isn't fully charged after I've been trying to run the bike off it, but it sparks and lights work fine, so I'm not too concerned. Its AGM and should have high volts up until it's about to die. If I keep up this routine without the bike to charge it though... I'm going to get a multimeter to check it to be sure.

the PO started it without an air box and with dirty jets, so I thinks there is another problem here. The needle jet's aren't part of the idle circuit anyhow. I don't have the materials to check compression, but like I said, with the PO it ran. I don't have starter fluid, but I'll get some next time I'm out. The bottle is open when I try to start it, so that shouldn't be a problem. Oil level is how I left it, a little high. I put in 2.3L because of my new filter, but it's still high after kicking it a good amount, so I'll drain some.

I'm pretty stumped. I feel like it must be something with the float bowl/bottle, but I don't know what could be wrong. How do I check the fuel level in the floats though? I've seen it be checked with a clear tube, but I don't get how to do that on our specific bowls, or how it works in general. Any pointers on doing this? I'll try the thing with the tank and petcock, but I want to vinegar wash the tank first.
 
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Hi Allan Sounds like the same trouble I had with mine. One thing I did that I shouldn't have was I had the coils hooked to the wrong cyl's I had an electrical issue and went thru ALL the connections.(stupid me) Also replaced the fuse box with a small blade type box from the auto store. Since these bikes have a 180 degree crank the pistons are operating in opposite directions. Some other bikes use a lost spark ignition where the plug will fire before TDC for the power and exhaust strokes. Long way around to tell you to check that your coils are hooked to the right plugs.
 
Some auto parts stores loan or rent special tools, as in compression testers. You may try that route. The fuel "bottle" should not matter, if the float bowls are full. It should start and run for a little bit off them. Also do you have the vacuum ports on the carb boot holders capped?
 
I checked everything, then sprayed some starter fluid in the carb intakes and tried starting her. She sputtered and almost took, but now the battery is dead... And I've got to buy a damn charger, which is just more stinking money going nowhere. But on the bright side, I'm hopeful about starting the bike.
 
If you wanted to save the money auto zone will charge a battery for free... Personally I don't think you'll regret having bought a battery charger down the road but if you're low on $...
 
Thanks for the tip, I did discover that. You're right, I probably will want to keep it, especially since I plan to travel on the bike and from what I have read, they don't have an impressive charging system. Now I'm just disappointed for having waited 2 months and letting my battery die. Oh well!

I'll probably take it to auto zone anyhow so it doesn't get any more damaged sitting dead. Thanks for the help
 
I found the battery tender jr. on amazon for $25, but I actually ended up cancelling it. Sorry, I'm a cheap ass. But I've got an excuse! I'm putting that money towards a permanent magnet alternator, which should mean I shouldn't have to use a battery tender ever again, not to mention much better charging performance and ideological comfort.

Probably should get the bike running before I start making grand plans, but this seems to be a well documented thing for xs650's, and shown to be the same process for xs400's
 
It was too late to cancel the tender. Amazon is bloody fast at shipping. I got the battery charged at advanced auto today, and I brought it home and tried to start here up with some starter fluid and full choke. It came on at high revs one time then died, and another time it sputtered. At first I forgot to uncap my bottle, but then I uncapped it and nothing changed. As far as I know, it just burned off the starter fluid then died. Is it possible to get some reving with just starter fluid, or do you think I am getting gas flow and just need to stick with it more. I don't want to fry my battery trying to start it if it just wont go. I don't want to feed it too much ether either. Also, is there some art to this that I need to learn, or is it just kick and hope it works. When it catches, I feel like I gotta jump on the throttle or something.

Thanks!
 
So from what I've learned if it starts with the fluid it is a problem with the fuel system. I think that the problem is that it is running too lean I would try rejecting and definitely put filters on before you start it. Congrats on it starting once... That's progress :)
 
From what I'm reading here, you probably missed a passage in the carb cleaning process. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks or exhaust leaks, either.
 
So you guys do think it could hit high revs briefly on starter fluid alone? I didn't soak the thing, just quick sprays like two or three times. I hear what you're saying about it being a carb problem, but man, I completely disassembled them, dunked them three times, and sprayed every passage out twice, with carb spray and WD-40. I'll be damned if they're still dirty. I know for certain the choke, idle mix screws, and pilot jets are clear. That's the whole idle circuit, right? Oh, what should I have the butterfly valve idle position set to? I just set a tiny gap. Is that critical? By vacuum leaks you mean air leaks in the intake, and exhaust leaks air on the exhaust? I didn't tighten down the carb boot hose clamp since I was taking them off frequently and didn't think it would matter. I guess I should do that. I did feel a strong vacuum when putting my hand on the carb intake. Exhausts are on and tight, so I don't think that'd be a problem.

Thanks a ton for the help and encouragement guys.
 
... dunked them three times, and sprayed every passage out twice, with carb spray and WD-40 ...
Only three times? No high pressure compressed air? And you didn't boil them once yet?
From what I have read on here from people with similar stories, you are only just getting started.

I hope I am wrong. I know every time I read this story I find it SO hard to believe. Surely though, all these guys can't be making it up.
Best of luck!
 
There's a passage that you can see on the air intake side (the air filter end) that I forgot to probe through. Maybe you did the same?

Yea the clamps should be tightened, try that first. If you have big vacuum leaks, you won't get it running
 
Willem, if you mean that recessed jet, I sprayed that through.

I really don't want to believe that I could have missed something. I watched so many videos and took so much care! but I'll go through them again...
 
When you dunked them did you remove all the rubber including the butterfly seal I've been informed they can leak air quite a bit if you don't

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(Photo credit Xschris)
 
Willem, if you mean that recessed jet, I sprayed that through.

I really don't want to believe that I could have missed something. I watched so many videos and took so much care! but I'll go through them again...

When you sprayed through, did you visually ensure that cleaner spayed freely out of the idle mixture hole and the three holes above the throttle plate?
 
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