Help out a beginner bike owner?

[HenryJenkins]

Some really simple questions that I am looking for help on. I am new at this bike thing (really new), so these may seem like simple questions to you, but any help is appreciated.

How do I Change the oil? It hasnt been changed in multiple years on this bike (I assume), and I am guessing there is lots of crud in there. Do I need to change the oil filter too?

I had to remove my wheel to replace the tire (which was pretty hard), and now that I have it back on, the brakes are too tight and the wheel wont spin. How do I adjust these? Do I have to bleed them? What does that even do?

What is the proper chain tension? How do I tell if it is right? What do I do to adjust this?

Also, slightly longer term (as in wont get done this week), I got new air filters, and I assume I have to re jet the carbs? I dont really even know what that means. How do I do it? Am I better off taking it to a shop for that? I would rather do all the work on this thing myself, but if it is going to be extremely difficult then I will take it in for that.

Thanks in advance!

 

[HenryJenkins]

Photographic material for your pleasure.

 

[chkm8]

First thing to do would be to download the manuals from this forum, which includes basic maintainence like oil changes. I would change the filter too. Also, do some searches on rejetting on the forum, a lot of info there too.

 

[HoughMade]

To change the oil...

 

[ThePsuedoMonkey]

The chain should have about 2-3cm of play to it (midway between the engine sprocket and the wheel sprocket), the manuals will tell you how to adjust if it's not in spec.

My expertise with brakes is limited to cars, but I would take the caliper off the disc and make sure it is not locked, and take it from there. Usually a little common sense goes a long way in diagnosing brake issues. You will need to bleed the lines if you disconnected the brake line at any point. Bleeding the lines gets rid of air in the line, which makes them feel spongy and fail to apply proper force to the disc (but that could also be an indication of worn brake hoses). To do that, locate the bleeder nipple...

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...and the proper socket for it, then repeat the following steps until no air bubbles escapes (and a few more times for good measure, as brake fluid is the cheapest thing you will ever buy for an automobile): (1) Open the bleeder. (2) Engage the brake lever slowly, watching for air bubbles, do NOT release at all. (3) Tighten the bleeder nipple. (4) Disengage the brake lever.

Since you've never changed the oil by yourself, please make sure to check the torque on the plug after you finish! I forgot to do that last time and it was significantly under spec, causing the vibration from freeway riding to rip the threads out.

 

[HenryJenkins]

You guys are awesome! Thanks!

About the brakes, I did have them off the wheel so I could change the tire, but never disconnected them from the bike or the hoses. I took the brake pads out so I could get it back on the disk, and now it is so tight that the wheel barely rolls. Is there a way to adjust the brake pads?

 

[OliverB]

No adjustment on brake pad clearance. If the piston in the caliper is moving freely in and out, the pads will retract enough not to be very tight. Normally, pads will touch the rotor when the brake is relaxed but not enough to cause the wheel to drag as you describe. I suspect you have a caliper piston problem.

 

[HenryJenkins]

Alright, thanks. What do I do about that?

 

[OliverB]

Well, I haven't had to go there yet myself but will later this Fall when I get into the '79 we recently got. That bike has both front and rear discs that are not functional.
Hopefully, others with that experience will chime in.