How to eliminate the battery ?

Matt_92

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Hi everybody,

I want to know what are the steps for eliminate the battery ?
Does some one done it before and how ?

I project to start with kick only...

Thanks guys :thumbsup:
 
Not sure about that one. You have to find one that has a cycle use of 14.5-15v or you will fry the battery. Some sealed lead acid batteries can't handle a lot of volts. On my 80 I have a led brake light, 35w head lamp and low watt turn signals so it uses very little juice. Here is a battery that look like it will work http://www.surplusbattery.com/images/SPECSHEETS/PS1213.pdf If you can find one that has these sort of specs you should be ok. My battery only cost $9 shipped and I have put 4k miles on it between two different bikes.
 
I got mine 4yrs ago off ebay and the seller no longer has them. Those batteries in your link look good just make sure it has a cycle use of 14.5-15v
 
Xchris, let me show you the answer of one friend who I tell him what you do :

(Google translate)

especially not

These well lead batteries that are not made to put on a vehicle.

This is stuff to discharge slowly, slowly , unable to acknowledge any rapid pulse ( server / Alarm / small electric vehicle at the con) .
Ditto for the load, slow very slow, never exceed 0.7A charge .
That means they can not withstand intensities too large and must remain under intensities functioning very low charge and discharge .

A motor controller should not be able to go below 2A and can rise to 14 see even for small 125cc .
Already when decreasing the capacity of your battery you submit the cycle load faster .... forget .

To give you an example story , you take hold good,
If we compare a Ultracell with RacingB capacity equal to 2.5 Ah C20
- Discharge pulse max Ultracell -> 34.5A (5s)
- Discharge Pulse Racing Max B -> 200A (5s) ! ! ! ! 110A (30s at 0 ° C) 80A (30s to -18 ° C)

You know why there's a price difference regardless of brand .
It is products that not anything to see.
This time it's even worse than fucking a battery without trial ...

Your relationship Regul / alternator has been calibrated to the capacity of the original battery.
Down the ability you're going to submit to higher levels than it should intensities.
Although it should not be a problem in absolute terms, the specific motorcycle batteries can withstand conditions of broad use.

So take a motorcycle thing is COMPULSORY even lead VRLA (AGM or GEL)
Forget that shit made ​​for any other use.
 
:laugh: All I know is I have put thousands of miles on these batteries ( even my scooters have them) and they all still work fine.:shrug: Lots of people have done this for years so it's not just me.
 
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