how to get a stripped oil filter bolt out?

I don't think mine has a torque spec printed on it (1978). I just go with "snug." After that I start the bike and let it run for a while and look for leaks.
 
They started putting torque (1.5kg) specs on them in 81.
 

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Aha. That cinches it, then: I thought I had an 80 but this and a couple other things have convinced me it's an 81. Guess I could have run the VIN, too. Oh well.
 
... but if the bolt has been sitting for years and years:wink2:
I got a set of these for Christmas and it worked like magic on a nearly round bolt:
There are little cams in them which grip tighter the more force you apply to the wrench handle.
The 12 mm socket did the trick - once I put a 3' steel pipe over the socket wrench handle that is. Since then, I have torqued to 11 lbs. per the manual when I re-install the cover and the 3' pipe has not needed to come out again.
 
I had the same problem. I spent some time filing the 12 bolt head to a 11, then hammered an 11 socket on, and it finally came out with help from a ratchet-lengthening-device aka a long piece of old pipe :D.
Now I have a much worse problem though... I managed to round off one of the nuts attached to the long studs parallel to and running along the sides of the cylinders. Like a proper caveman, I then proceeded to pound the crap out of the nut with a chisel and a big hammer (duuh), I got a good part of the nut out but the rest of it is not very accessible and its keeping me from opening up the rest of the motor. Any ideas?
 
Heres a thought:
Can I cut off part of the stud plus the remainder of the nut with a dremel? Are those long studs easily replaceable?
Its number 9, see attachment.

Thanks...
JP
 

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There are tools for removing rounded off bolts or screws. Sears makes a set for each. They call them bolt-outs and screw-outs:laugh: I know the name is simple but they work:) Do a google search and you will see them.
 
To remove the cylinder studs I use two nuts tightened together on the stud. Then use a socket to unscrew the stud from the case.
 

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This just happened to me about two days ago. You can put some tissue inside of the socket in the ratchet or tape it ontop of the bolt then use some channel locks to unscrew it.
 
After I cut the rest of the nut and part of the stud (took me about an hour with a dremel because of the lack of space, I didn't want to damage the aluminium under and around the target), I removed the cylinder head and cracked the case open. I was able to unscrew all of those studs using the two nuts and the socket, no big problems. Thanks all!
 
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