How to start an older motorcycle?

chrisd1984

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Hey I'm new to this board and very new to motorcycles. I bought a 1983 Yamaha Maxim that was certified and great shape and re-charged the battery tonight. I took it out and it started the first time but I tried again later on and it wouldn't turn over at all. The weather here is around 10 degrees Celsius. Is there a trick to getting an older motorcycle to start every time after it stalls? Could there be any reason why it wouldn't start? I kept trying the start button but couldn't find power...
 
Welcome to the board. Since you said you are new to motorcycles I suggest that first you check the kill switch to make sure it is in the on position.

There are two types of motorcycle riders in this world;
i) Those that have at some time or other tried to start their bike with the kill switch in the off position :doh:
ii) Liars :D
 
I can't disagree with 63-C. I've been there and done that. :)

I also have to wonder if your battery is good since you mentioned recharging it. Is the electrolyte level correct? Over charging a battery will boil off the water. Is it holding a good charge? If it is an older battery, it may be worn out. Corroded connections, rusty ground wires, and a bad starter solenoid are other things that come to mind.

HTH,
Dave
 
Hi, welcome to the board. I'm also in the GTA. Take your battery to Canadian Tire, they'll test it for free. Just because it holds a charge doesn't mean it's good.
 
Hey thanks for the replies.

Yes I made sure the killswitch was off; in fact, it's usually turned off before I even start the bike. I try starting it but it just sort of putters but doesn't actually start - this was how I drained the battery the first time...by holding the start button for a few extra seconds trying to get a turnover. The guy who sold it to me said the battery was brand new and it looks like a new battery...I did the check the fluid levels a few days ago and they are near the top in the reservoirs....could there be any other common reason why it wouldn't start every time? I just worry in case I stall at a traffic light or something...
 
Common reasons for cold start problems: dirty carbs, bad timing, weak spark, valves out of adjustment, low compression (in my opinion, the likelyhood of your problem is in that order also).
 
I assumed that you had activated the choke before trying to start the bike when cold. If not, try using the choke while starting. If it starts with the choke on, let it run for 5 to 10 minutes with the choke on to get nice and warm. After warm up, de-activate the choke and it should run reasonably well unless one of the other issues I mentioned are present. When cold, my son (the rider ... I'm pretty much just the mechanic) will ride for around 5 miles with the choke out and them push the choke in for the remainder of the ride. It works for us.
 
Hey thanks for the replies.

Yes I made sure the killswitch was off; in fact, it's usually turned off before I even start the bike. ...

OK, I am a little confused with the terminology you are using so first let's make sure we are talking the same language. You say you are turning the kill switch off. :confused: Is the kill switch physically in the centre position when you try to start it?

Everyone's bike has it's own idiosyncrasies when it comes to cold starting, especially older ones. Mine likes full choke and no throttle and will tend to flood and get the plugs wet if I get overzealous on the throttle when trying to cold start it. Since I like to start with the easy and cheap stuff first I suggest you try pulling the plugs and make sure they did not get wet from your multiple attempts to start it.
 
Well the killswitch is up when on and down when off (at least on my bike) so I bring it down to make sure it's off. If it's on I don't even get an engine putter at all so I can usually tell if it's on or off

As for this choke idea, you hold the choke in when you start the bike? I haven't tried that but could see if it works

hmm where would I find these plugs? Are there 2 or 3 of them on the side? Just pop them off and dry them from any moisture? Should I disconnect battery before doing so?

Thanks
 
Well the killswitch is up when on and down when off (at least on my bike) so I bring it down to make sure it's off. If it's on I don't even get an engine putter at all so I can usually tell if it's on or off

As for this choke idea, you hold the choke in when you start the bike? I haven't tried that but could see if it works

hmm where would I find these plugs? Are there 2 or 3 of them on the side? Just pop them off and dry them from any moisture? Should I disconnect battery before doing so?

Thanks

Sorry chrisd1984 but I just realized that this is a Maxim :doh: and I am not that familiar with how the choke and kill switch are configured. My bike is a different model. On your bike I believe the kill switch may be a rocker type switch and the choke may be cable controlled from the handlebars so I may be leading you in the wrong direction on that.

OK you DOHC guys, time to jump in here and help a newbie out!

In the meantime, my original comment on wet plugs could still be valid and by plugs I meant spark plugs. No you do not have to disconnect the battery to remove them.
 
hey no worries, thanks for the input though. This bike is actually older than I am so I have a bit to learn yet

hmm so I would just pull out the plugs on the side of the bike and check? I think there's a few of them. Just pull out the plugs and dry them with a cloth?
 
Common reasons for cold start problems: dirty carbs, bad timing, weak spark, valves out of adjustment, low compression (in my opinion, the likelyhood of your problem is in that order also).

None of those will cause it to not turn over. He said he had no power, not that it cranks and doesn't catch.

If you push the start button and nothing happens the causes are more likely to be

Bad battery
Broken fusebox
Bad button
Bad wiring
Bad relay
Bad starter

Battery - have it tested, maybe get a new one. In US it's $39.95 at Wal-mart.

Fusebox - clip metal gets brittle and either fails to hold the fuse properly or breaks completely. If you poke at the fuses and it starts working just replace the whole damn thing with a new fuseblock. $10 at most parts stores.

Button - take it apart and look for corrosion. Clean off corrosion, lube with dielectric grease. Remember that the switch has to ground to bars , so check for corrosion there, too.

The rest of this stuff is more labor intensive, so I'd get the easy ones out of the way first.
 
I understand those problems are not associated with a "no power" situation. However, his second post noted: "I try starting it but it just sort of putters but doesn't actually start". I took that as an indication the engine was turning over but wouldn't start.
 
CHRIS -

When you say "won't turn over", do you mean that the starter won't TURN the motor (as in, it doesn't make any motor sounds when you press the start?) Or do you mean that it sounds like it's trying to start but won't fire? Those are two different things, so you need to clarify so we can better help you.

Won't turn over:
That would imply that the starter is not turning the motor - which in your case would probably be caused by some type of electrical issue. My guesses would include that the battery is no good (do you have a multimeter?), perhaps the solenoid (which you'd get a single "click" sound and no turning when you hit the button), or some other little electrical gremlin. Also, in some bikes (not sure about later 400's, mine's earlier) - they won't let you start with the bike in gear. Was it in gear when you tried to start it?

Won't start: Could be many many things, as have been stated by others, including technique. However, "won't start" would imply you've been using the starter, it's turning the motor, and it's not firing (or you tried bump starting it and that didn't work either).

Let us know what's actually going on here!:thumbsup:
 
To clarify, I'll turn the petcock on, make sure the key is in and the clutch switch is on and turn the killswitch off....then I'll push power and the engine will sound like it'll want to start but just won't catch; the red light on the dash will flicker and the bike will crank but just won't actually startup. It did work once last night but I stalled it....tried starting it up again 10 minutes later and still no luck....
 
Ok - so it's turning over. It's not starting.

Try this: put the petcock on prime (PRI). Let it sit like 30 seconds. Now put it on full choke, no throttle, and press the start button, see if that works.

If it's hard to start even with the choke, then the list that JMD forrest gave above is a good list, that if the bike is new to you, and you wanna work on it - then you should be at least checking in the near future.
 
Thanks I'll give this a shot. So PRI..is that at the 3 'oclock position? And by full choke you mean pull the left handlebar in all the way?
 
I don't have a maxim400 model, mine's older, and has a different choke. If your choke is like my maxim 650, then it is on the bottom of the left hand controls, there is a lever. Push it all the way out with your thumb. As for the PRI - it could be that your petcock is different, but it should be marked. Hint: it's the one that's not the "on" and not the "res" (reserve).

lemme know how it goes.
 
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