I'm not surprised

[226dark]

I checked the inside of my fuse block and found this -probably off a Suzuki dirtbike or something. Hmmm , strange colors.


Even worse I actually bothered to zip-tie it back on and then shortly after discovered THIS!


The 2 red mains were hand-twisted and not fused. The fuse box has a black which is plated to all the fuses. The Headlight (B/Y), Signal (Br), and Ignition (R/W) from one side of the connector were hand tied together into that black.
Then from fuse box a White/Green to signal, a B/R to headlights, a B/Br to Ignition and a Br/L for nowhere (no need for a fuse there! and all fuses were 15 amp).

So I cut the fuse box off, crimped insulated slide connectors on and to the appropriate fuses - and this is a temporary solution



- but my question is. . is it that simple or am i overlooking something. If that simple then why the elaborate confusing effort the PO messed with??

Conclusion so far: signals, indicators, brake/taillight are good. Getting ignition spark good. I don't know yet about headlights et. al because floats are set wrong and also I ordered the correct size main jet and the CORRECT PILOT JET, on the way in the mail from MikesXS (not SCI). Finally decided to order them as I should have to begin with because. . .

 

[drewpy]

some peeps just ask for trouble and overthink a problem. I had a friend buy an FZ600 really cheap as the PO couldn't start it and messed with it till he gave up.

choke out, but of throttle and she fired up in the back of the van.

 

[226dark]

So I got my answer to the headlights - don't work. Not sure if switch or main relay or just burned out headlight OR my simplify, simplify, simplify fuse setup- I'm assuming not that.

I have a really long story for another post but i got it running, late night last night, tore down top end everything required to get to it, then back together in 4 hrs. In kind of a hurry.
The part in manual for cam chain tensioner that mentions leave all slack towards back of the chain? Wasn't sure I did that a year ago+. The tension on the slack (too much in front) (tensioner in back) was effecting the whole timing of the cam/valvetrain so in haste decided to get it right, and still could have gotten one link tighter but weighed the risk of dropping cam sprocket bolt(s) straight down to case, now on with red loktite, , and oily fingers, against having possibly one link of slack better. I just put it together.

Also, since apart, took bowls off carbs and found the knarled up original pilot jets with holes in the side. made sure clean -one was plugged with dirt- and put those in for experimental nothing-to-lose. Adjusted float height to 25.8 mm.

So there's three changes in one go and it bloody RUNS! I have a bike I bought 2 yrs ago this April, and I finally got to hear it run and let idle happily for 10-15 minutes right around midnight (what neighbors? ).

Here's the screwy part and parts. I did go so far as remove acorn nuts just to lift barrels slightly. It was one of those days, ha. Wanted to just double check that little O-ring there. I rebuilt it so long ago and it sat in the basement- got fedup with rest of bike and parts list exceedingly extensive and $$$. The irony is I might have caused an oil leak. Back together in a hurry and found a DOWEL PIN on the floor!
Those are for oil passages as well as locating the placement of the block and head, is that right? Or just the o-ring one. I will have to start it up again probably tmrw to check again for sure for oil.

Here's another strange thing. Back together hastily, but carefully, put the tank on and gettin excited at this point (I didn't see that dowel pin by the mess of tools on the floor yet, HA). Oil in. DOUBLE checked that petcock vacuum was attached to the barb because don't want gas flowing out of airboxes again when leaving in Prime! Double checked the timing and gap of points, fiddled and got it. I Did NOT double check that spark plugs were tightened, in fact i barely screwed them in!!! Might have noticed when attaching caps if not in such a hurry, and getting mad at how late it was.

It sputtered and I Knew, FINALLY, there is hope. THEN???? To my amazement . . .INTERNAL COMBUSTION , it was really running, after looking at this thing for 2 years! And running pretty darn good, carbs close to synced even!
****Even more amazing, and scary . . . the spark plugs were barely in. I thought the smoke coming off the engine was from maybe WD-40 coating for that clean protective barrier. For 5 minutes anyway. Then thought better of it and it was running maybe just more than 10 minutes. One of the spark plugs was about 4 turns from removal, can't believe it ran at all. So compression is good with the new rings, ha.

Other thing also messed up in such haste. I torqued and wrenched on header nuts like I was taking it out on em and one of them I went too far. Not sure what to do there but it's stripped. Too hurried to take apart or worry about that. Another reason for smoke.

And yes I found fresh oil and suspect I need that dowel pin?
And no the headlights don't work, was it my new fuse arrangement?
How best to fix header threads?

Listening to valvetrain etc, and considering I could have been killed by a vibration-removed projectile spark plug. . . For my stupidity and frenzied haste I am pretty thankful whatever else I might have to fix.
And how sweet she sounds

 

[bcware]

Hook the head light up to a known good battery to see if she lives. The headlight should be lit with the ignition on even when the bike is not running if I recall correctly.

As far as I can tell only the dowels with the o-rings feed oil to the top end. I think all of them are just for locating the top. I am not sure anything bad will happen if you forgot only one, but should the missing one be from the oil channel there may be a higher chance of leaking since there is nothing to keep the o-ring's shape.

Is the head stud stripped or the nut? You can get a chase for the threads.

Slow down on your build; it sounds like most of your problems were caused by your haste. Slow and methodical is best!

 

[xschris]

The head light operates on a relay so you will have to turn the engine over enough for the relay to trip and the light to come on.

 

[OleDoc]

The head light operates on a relay so you will have to turn the engine over enough for the relay to trip and the light to come on.

yeah i figured that out the hard way

 

[drewpy]

you'll need to get another barrel stud and fit that. its the only way, no repair is possible.

use a torque wrench they are cheaper than rebuilding the engine over again!

 

[226dark]

youre right BC. I WAS somewhat methodical BUT just wanted done pissed-haste, ha. Not sure if header pipe is just nut stripped. I won't have time tonite or tmrw to do anything with it so i will pick a time when I can make time

It is the exhaust pipe header and not head stud, so could be much much worse, happy for that!
The o-ring and dowel between cyl block and head is in place, but between head and valve cover is likely where it came from and don't know if that one is also the needed one for oil to continue upward without leaks

I/ll test the headlight itself to make sure it's still good for starters when I get some XS leisure time.

Got the drivechain in the mail today so i'm gettin closer to having a bike

Thanks for all advice and help XSforum friends, Big help always

oh yea and good call on the torque wrench. I broke mine using it as a breaker bar on my truck for stubborn nut on transfer case to get at the seal. and broke it I did -the torque wrench. I immediately bought an expensive breaker bar and failed to invest in new torque wrench. That will be remedied!

 

[226dark]

I just realized i had taken a couple, few at most pictures. Was in no picture taking mood for a How-Not-To tutorial
Took one early on, before hands were too oily. The timing looks deceptively perfect. Not the case, should have gotten a picture with the chain tensioner still on. The two Dowels both on here.
picture at 6:36 pm


Then this pic for no reason except cleaned hands of oil to get gasket mating surfaces clean. Dowels still on
picture at 7:34 pm


note: i did cover spark plug holes right after this picture (note to self: oh, i should do that!).

Then no pictures between so i've narrowed that down to 1 of 5? Smashing! I didn't remove the barrels but did in fact lift them up for a look, completely unnecessary.
Not spending any time Saturday in garage, day of cuarentayuno and will find other diversions. I'm anxious, both good and bad way, to start it again Sunday and have a patient approach to looking it over.

I did take a pic well after turning it off and cleaning myself up, happier and better mood. I like fire This depicts the ideal pristine wrenching environment.

 

[bcware]

The missing dowel came from the photos above? Between the top of the valves and the cover? There were only 2 dowels locating the top cover on mine and they do not channel oil; the right side rear dowels going through the cylinder base/head gaskets with o-rings are the only critical ones as far as I can tell. The base/head gasket layers have 3 dowels.

Do you have any photos of the damaged nut? I am still not 100% sure which one you're talking about.

 

[226dark]

you'll need to get another barrel stud and fit that. its the only way, no repair is possible.

use a torque wrench they are cheaper than rebuilding the engine over again!

The missing dowel came from the photos above? Between the top of the valves and the cover? There were only 2 dowels locating the top cover on mine and they do not channel oil; the right side rear dowels going through the cylinder base/head gaskets with o-rings are the only critical ones as far as I can tell. The base/head gasket layers have 3 dowels.

Do you have any photos of the damaged nut? I am still not 100% sure which one you're talking about.

It is part 30 from cylinder diagram i looked at - 90116-08423 - and seems hard to find and obsolete and might be same as on 1983 XV500K which SpeedandsportInc has for $3.57 (might as well get 2). I was "torquing on the thing as if I was trying to recrush the already crushed gaskets

Unfortunately I discovered from the couple pics it is not a dowel between top of valves and cover, which i was convincing myself it was. that is why i am banging my head, it is lower than that.

I'm still happy for not worse outcome of stupidness. A puddle on the floor, i forgot to mention was very liquid. Gasoline! directly below right spark plug hole. Jeepers I like fire but not that much fire!

Also convinced now no oil leak after pondering that and will find out tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[226dark]

misleading wrong info, that picture i said "The timing looks deceptively perfect", i would have to have the TDC Mark lined up to see and then also have the tensioner in.

Anyway here is my ATTEMPTED ARSON. Another of the pictures 1/2 hr after shutting off. While it was running i was letting it idle while i cleaned up the garage and all the tools laying around. Even the neighbors would have thought I was trying to burn down the neighborhood, smoke rolling off entire engine, but me - man, i sure did use alot of WD-40 to shine up engine. This picture shows even after half hour after, a puddle of fresh gas! Don't do this at home. Or EVER.



And a detail of same picture. What's that puddle straight under the spark plug? Phew, that's only gas from the combustion chamber while running. And what is that little metal thing on the floor? I can't imagine it's anything important, ha

 

[drewpy]

can't see, picture's too small

 

[226dark]

Talk about DUMB luck. This is the one. No oil leaks except cam seal. We is happy

 

[xschris]

Its always something simple