Just checked Fuse box, found a 10, 20, and 30 ?

Recreateme

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So i have been really looking hard into my issues with my headlight, Neutral light, and gauge lights and last night i was trying to clean all the connections i could - I undid the connection, blew it out with some compressed air and sanded off the connectors of any corrosion/gunk/etc.

The PO had removed the Fuse box, and replaced it with newer blade type fuses, and 1 original glass fuse (i dont know why he didn't do all of them but w/e).

When i opened them up i saw a 10a, a 20a and a 30a. I just looked around online and it seems like my 79 xs400-F would only be 10a and 1x 20a... No 30a's.. What would the reason for upping the fuse ? Could this be why my headlight/neutral/gauge lights don't work ?
 
Using a larger amp fuse could cause components to blow out or be damaged if the voltage get to high or there is a short. Stick with what is recommended :wink2:
 
I believe that Chris meant to write Amperage. ;)

Fuses don't care about voltage until it is high enough to arc across the contacts. The fusible link in a fuse will melt with too high a current flow (regardless of voltage) to protect the wiring and components.

On our bikes, a 20A fuse should go to the ignition switch and everything else should have a 10A fuse. You will need to do some investigating to find out why the PO had installed a higher rated fuse. I'm guessing you will find some interesting wiring repairs somewhere...
 
Yes amp:laugh: People often put higher amp fuses in to mask issues that blow the correct size:doh:
 
nooooo.... Interesting wiring would be awful.. However, as far as I can tell it all looks ok except for 1 wire that comes out of the voltage regulator was clipped on both sides to avoid the usual connector and rewired to have its own, which seems fine to me.

After that wire, obvs the fuse box was replaced with these blade style fuses, and 1 single glass fuse which could have just been lazyness/whatever the PO had around the house on hand at the time.

Can anyone point me to the location of my Neutral switch? I am still trying to figure this out, maybe the actual switch is bad or unplugged and its not the wiring ?
 
I think the color of the wire that goes to it should be blue.
 

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Thanks again, but before i go tearing up the sprocket case, i have a flasher relay question. I just pulled mine out (my turn signals work great mind you) and it has three wires going into the plug but the actual relay only has 2 prongs.. Is this possibly the wrong flasher relay that the PO slapped on there?
 

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Also, so looking at the wiring diagram the ignition switch should be the fuse that has the "brown to brown" wiring right ?

I looked at it and its all red, or red stripped wiring, except brown to brown.. which is ignition right ?
 
Also, so looking at the wiring diagram the ignition switch should be the fuse that has the "brown to brown" wiring right ?

I looked at it and its all red, or red stripped wiring, except brown to brown.. which is ignition right ?

on mine the main fuse is red and red stripped which goes to the key switch then comes back to the fuse block with a brown wire that powers the other three fuses the brown to brown should power your turn signals and brake lights I do believe
 
I guess I am just asking which coloured wires should have the 20a fuse... I clearly don't know and i can't find a diagram that shows the wiring and the fuses layout :(
 
The PO probably replaced the OEM flasher with an aftermarket one that doesn't have the self-canceling function. That's fine but you have to manually cancel the turn signal (which I like better anyways)
 
Thats not a problem phate, i haven't had this bike on the road yet so i can't verify that. I am fine with manual canceling it though. thanks for the heads up
 
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