Muffler for 1976 Yamaha XS360?

[Xander Stephens]

I just bought a 1976 Yamaha XS360, with straight pipes, no mufflers. This bike has an awesome sound to it, but is so loud it disrupts the neighborhood. That said, I’m looking to buy some mufflers for it to quiet it down. I don’t have much room for a long muffler, as it would get in the way of my rear sets, but could definitely put on something a little shorter. I would like to buy a pair of mufflers for less that $60, and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or mufflers that work well on these bikes? Thanks for the help!

 

[NewHavenMike]

The best, cheapest aftermarket mufflers that work decently are the EMGO tapered exhausts. They are about $60 each. Ive found these work quite well.

Do not get the shorty pipes that are like 13” long and $20 each, they are junk and then impossible to tune with.

The best exhaust will obviously be the stockers, my 360 had no mufflers either and the tapered ones work well enough and are louder but manageable.

The mufflers will not have a perfect seal on the headers, you will need to use high temp silicone and let it cure before riding. Practically every aftermarket muffler will have this problem. Any holes left will produce backfiring and you may mistake that for being too lean.

 

[sandmanred]

Making an baffle to insert in what you have will bring the noise way down. Different bike but same concept shown here. Make the baffle at least 4-5 inches long with slots or holes along the length. If it's too short there a resonance that's extremely loud when you hit it.

 

[Xander Stephens]

Making an baffle to insert in what you have will bring the noise way down. Different bike but same concept shown here. Make the baffle at least 4-5 inches long with slots or holes along the length. If it's too short there a resonance that's extremely loud when you hit it.

How do you make a baffle like that?

 

[sandmanred]

The header is 1 5/8 OD with a 1 1/2 ID. So 1.5 OD tubing will just fit inside, I think I had to sand it a bit to get a nice slip fit into the header. That's the 1.5 inch section in my hand in the last pic. The slotted section is a piece of 7/8 OD tubing. I think the ring that joins them I cut with a hole saw to get the outside diameter and then drilled a center hole to match the ID of the 7/8 tube. The cap for the 7/8 tube was also cut with a hole saw without the pilot bit. The slots were made with a cut off wheel but I'm sure drilling holes would work as well. I'd keep the holes small enough that you could weld them if you'd drill too many.