Need help identifying components of a 1983 Maxim engine exterior

And if you don't mind would you also be able to help me label these spots under the seat?

Is the air filter "A" and can that easily be changed? Also, when removing the gas tank, is there a screw somewhere near where the seat clips on in the front?

There was also a sort of fuse box thing on the left side of the bike that isn't in the photo...is this some sort of circuit board that regulates voltage moving through the electrical portions of the bike?
 

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In the pics in post #20 of your master cylinder I can see the wires for your brake switch.
If you look you can see them too. There is a black rubber cover around the brake line. Just to the left of the cover are two wires inside a black plastic cover. If you pull the large rubber cover that covers the brake lever and it pivot point away. You will see that the wires Talked about go to a switch that is plugged into a hole in just infront of the lever. The big rubber cover, it just kinda snaps on the pivot bolt the lever pivots on. It will peal away easily. Revealing the switch, pivot bolt ad lever adjustment bolt.
Leo
 
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As I mentioned follow the wires from the switch. You will find where they plug into the wiring harness, unplug them, does the brake light go off?
Leo
 
On you picture A is the air intake towards the air filter. Yes, your air filter is in there and it's really easy to take out/replace/inspect. Always good to check and get all the spiders out there. But you can't access it from under the seat, you'll have to open the side panel, just pull off the side cover on the left side of your bike and there should be a little plastic panel which is attached with 3 screws, just unscrew and there's your air filter. It's kept in place by a little latch on the right side of the filter, you can just slide this one out.

The tank is bolted on with one bolt just under where the seat would sit on your tank. I think I told you about this before, but if you've removed this bolt you can just lift up and wiggle out the tank. (do detach the fuel line and vacuum line first though)

B is your rear suspension

C is a set of connectors, of which I cannot tell you what they connect to what because I can't tell where they come from and where they're going. The only way to find out is to measure connectivity and physically follow the wires where theyre going.

There is a little box on the side of the bike labeled "Ignitor unit", there are some print plates in this box. This regulates the timing of the sparks and ignition circuit. I've had to replace this recently. The fuse box is on the top of the bike, under the seat. You can slide off the lid as indicated on the fuse box to see the actual fuses themselves. A couple of your wires will probably go through here. Measure your fuses for connectivity if you have any electrical issues.

enjoy :)
 
Okay that sounds good, I’ll have a look at the air filter tonight.

Hmm I think I saw a tank removal bolt, is it a bit near the tongue where the seat fits back into the bike on the top? Also I imagine it would be a good idea to empty the tank first with the PRI setting before tank removal correct? Of course and detach the fuel line and vacuum as well

Yes I’ll pick up a multimeter soon to measure the wire connectivity. I did notice a small battery like object under the seat as well, this is the regulator for the ignition and sparks? Or was that the other fuse box like contraption on the side? How did you know that you ignitor system needed replacing and it wasn’t the battery, spark plug, faulty wires etc?
 
With the petcock in the on position you can take the tank off without draining the fuel, it's just heavier with the fuel. No fuel will come out the petcock unless it leaks. In the on and reserve positions fuel won't flow unless the engine is running.
Leo
 
Yes, what Leo says. Don't worry about draining your fuel. Just take off your fuel line before moving the tank, and if then your petcock turns out to be faulty and fuel is rushing out, you can just stick it back on.

Yes the tank bolt it is a bit near the tongue where the seat fits back on the bike.

If your bike is running and your lights work, your fuses are probably fine. The ignitor unit is the one on the side of the bike, next to the little thing with cooling fins. Both are behind the left side cover of your bike, above the air filter box cover plate you're going to open up tonight. The fuse box is on the top of the bike, under the seat. They should both say on their exterior what they are. (they're labeled "fuse" and "ignitor unit" if I'm not mistaken)


the story of my ignitor unit:
I had starting/stalling problems a while ago and had to call road assistance since I didn't have any tools on me. It was raining, and it turned out I had very good spark on both sides, but sometimes there would be nothing on either side. Spark wires measured fine, plugs were new and also producing good spark on both sides when they did. Since the battery, spark plugs, wires and everything were fine but sometimes the ignition system would just not work, unless you fiddled about in the ignitor unit, we concluded it was the ignitor unit. Haven't had any problems since. Also, the mechanic says he sees about 10 of those failing every week in this weather. I think that might be a bit much, but apparently it's a common problem in mopeds and there are a lot of those around here.
 
Hey just had a few more questions about toying with the bike a bit today.

1. The first image (A), can I just unscrew the crankcase cover mark with a flathead screwdriver? Or should I leave that circular thing alone? I thought I could remove it to check the ignition timing.

2. The second image, is that screw I circled the carb empty screw for removing the last of the fuel in the bowls before taking off the carb?

3. The third image, beside the ignitor there is some other plastic contraption with a few boxes. Any idea what this does?

4. Still can't find that tank screw, is it under where the arrow points somewhere? If so, how could a screw driver remove it? Or is there a fastener somewhere?

5. For the last image, when removing the fuel filter and fuel line from the petcock, do I just uncrew the circled screw and pull the line out from the carb entrance?

6. No photo of this but I was trying to take off the covers for the ignition case and the alternator, clutch case on the left side of the motorcycle to get an idea of what's in there. However, I notice the PO had stripped the screws pretty badly and I can't seem to remove some of the screws. Any advice on dealing with this? There is a bit of traction left but it's hard to turn them and I don't want to make it worse.
 

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Hand impact tool. If you don't have one you should. Not electric or air powered. The kind you hit with a hammer
On the oil the Shell Rotella Is a good oil, I would run the regular instead of the synth untill you know it won't just leak out or being burnt.
Leo
 
Sure I'll grab a hand impact tool this weekend, don't want to strip the rest of the bolts anymore. Any idea how many quarts of that oil I should fill up with?

Did you get a chance to look at the other post as well? Think I may try to do some work on everything this weekend.
 
I'm not sure but your repair manual will tell you. My best guess is three quarts.
Buying it by the gallon will be cheaper than by the quart. Get the gallon, That way you will have extra in case it uses oil.
Leo
 
Hey just had a few more questions about toying with the bike a bit today.

1. The first image (A), can I just unscrew the crankcase cover mark with a flathead screwdriver? Or should I leave that circular thing alone? I thought I could remove it to check the ignition timing.

You can unscrew this with a big coin or a really big screwdriver, yes. But the timing on our bikes rarely needs adjustment, so if I were you I'd leave it, unless you're experiencing problems and have ruled all other options out.

2. The second image, is that screw I circled the carb empty screw for removing the last of the fuel in the bowls before taking off the carb?

Correct. That's exactly what they are. On my bike they're stuck so bad I don't dare to unscrew them, so I just dump out the fuel with holding the carbs upside down when I get them off. But through these holes would be preferable.

3. The third image, beside the ignitor there is some other plastic contraption with a few boxes. Any idea what this does?

You can pull off this plastic bit, it's just clamped on. Be careful with it though, the plastic gets a bit brittle over time and replacements are about as common as pink unicorns. It clamps to three points. The air filter cover is under this panel, as well as some electrical bits.

4. Still can't find that tank screw, is it under where the arrow points somewhere? If so, how could a screw driver remove it? Or is there a fastener somewhere?

No, your tank bolt is missing. The oval shaped hole on the top of your tank, which is half behind the rubber flap on the picture, is the one which should be covered with a plastic oval tab with a bolt in the middle. You could look for a replacement (would be best) but to be honest as long as your seat is on it there are no real dangers in leaving it as is.

5. For the last image, when removing the fuel filter and fuel line from the petcock, do I just uncrew the circled screw and pull the line out from the carb entrance?

Not necessary, just pull off the fuel line from the carb, at the bottom end of the line. Your petcock does look slightly different from mine, and as you'll need to replace the line and filter you'll need to pull off the line at both ends. On my bike I don't have to unscrew anything, but if that screw you indicated clamps your fuel line you'll have to unscrew it of course. But I don't expect that it does.

6. No photo of this but I was trying to take off the covers for the ignition case and the alternator, clutch case on the left side of the motorcycle to get an idea of what's in there. However, I notice the PO had stripped the screws pretty badly and I can't seem to remove some of the screws. Any advice on dealing with this? There is a bit of traction left but it's hard to turn them and I don't want to make it worse.

What Leo says :thumbsup:
 
Hmm that explains why I couldn't find that bolt then haha. So to remove the tank I could just loosen the two side bike covers and the petcock fuel line and just pull the tank off?

Was wondering for lubricating the chain, ride the bike a bit and then spray it on and wipe away dirt with a wire brush/rag? How often do you remove your chain and place it in solvent though?

Just had a few more off topic questions after reading through the manuals if you don't mind...

1. Have you ever had any issues with blow by and had to replace your piston rings? If so, how did you know this occurred?

2. To check the wiring all over the bike, do you just unhook wires and make sure the voltage is 12V? Or do you cut wires a little and check for the 12V that way?

3. Have you ever had to adjust anything with the clutch plates or tranmission on your bike in the period you've had it?

4. Where would the master cylinder reside on these bikes? Somewhere near the handlebar/brake fluid?

Thanks.
 
Hmm that explains why I couldn't find that bolt then haha. So to remove the tank I could just loosen the two side bike covers and the petcock fuel line and just pull the tank off?

Yes. Again, be careful when pushing it back on after, don't push the bike off its center stand by accident while you have both hands on the loose gas tank.

Was wondering for lubricating the chain, ride the bike a bit and then spray it on and wipe away dirt with a wire brush/rag? How often do you remove your chain and place it in solvent though?

Yes just lube the chain when it's warm. Don't use hard brushes since there are rubber rings in there as well. I don't remove my chain at all, nor do I use solvent. You can brush off most gunk with a soft brush or wipe it with a dry cloth, and then just lube it up. It keeps itself pretty clean. Taking it off is not necessary.

Just had a few more off topic questions after reading through the manuals if you don't mind...

1. Have you ever had any issues with blow by and had to replace your piston rings? If so, how did you know this occurred?

not at all. I haven't personally. But all engines have wear on their piston rings over time, so a piston ring might be replaced at one point or another. The way to find out is that your compression becomes poor, and you've ruled out the valves being out of spec. Basically, if your compression is poor and there is significant improvement when you spray a little bit of oil into your cylinder, it's your piston rings. But I haven't read about anyone needing to replace the piston rings (or honing the cylinder and putting in oversized pistons) since I joined a few months ago.

2. To check the wiring all over the bike, do you just unhook wires and make sure the voltage is 12V? Or do you cut wires a little and check for the 12V that way?

Don't cut wires just for measuring. Just measure at connectors. Those are usually the weakest points anyways, and you don't have to cut anything. There is no one way to measure all wiring on your bike, but if something is supposed to be getting power there should be 12V on it, yes. For example, your wires connecting your horn should have 12V on them when you press the horn button. Your multimeter also has a connectivity meter (usually with a sound, like a beep). Use that to check if wires are connecting.

3. Have you ever had to adjust anything with the clutch plates or tranmission on your bike in the period you've had it?

I haven't. But other forum members have. But again, if it isn't broken, don't fix it. When you feel like your clutch isn't working properly and you've checked that it's definitely not your cable, it could be your plates.

4. Where would the master cylinder reside on these bikes? Somewhere near the handlebar/brake fluid?

near the brake fluid reservoir, yes. Google some images, that helps.


No problem :)
 
yeah I'll probably have a look at the tank this weekend. Is the condensor that small metal box under the seat sort of near the battery? Or is it in with the coils? I notice there was this little box that kept falling out when I tried to put the battery back in and I had sort of had to cram it in there
 
Was also thinking of doing the oil filter/fluid change this weekend. I'm able to just sue an adjustable wrench to unscrew the filter screw and oil screw at the bottom correct? Or would you suggest grabbing a torque wrench? I notice both bolts are on there pretty firm though....maybe I'll have to hammer them to get them off or something

And for when I get around to cleaning the carbs, when removing the actually carburetor do I just put the tank on RES, pull off the fuel line, empty the float bowl screw and then unfasten a few nuts somewhere to pull the carbs off? There's some good instructions on xs400 and online for cleaning though.
 
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