spark plug question - NGK BP7ES

226dark

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I got new plugs and the BP7ES are according to the owners manual of course.
Why are the terminals of the plugs too large. I measured with a micrometer and they are way big at 6.33 mm. So i remove/unscrew the terminals from plugs and the plug boot fits perfectly.

BP7ES 1034 on the box (don't know what the second number is).

Also, plan to get new boots but might mention that i have a pair of used coils just for backup plan - they were priced very nice and. .. . . the same.

I did a real quick search in the forum and found nothing.
 
You can buy the new caps right from most any cycle center, I bet. Bought mine from a Yamaha dealer. Take one of yours to match. New will be 5 ohm, not the 10 ohm original but that's ok.
 
I use a 0 ohm cap with a ngk-bpr7eix iridium plug less resistance for a longer spark. Thats what I have been told it does I guess all I know is that it runs a lot better than the stock setup. I also ran my xs650 this way and had the same results:shrug:
 
For the folks deeper into the ignition system of the XS, are the coils on pre CDI ignition systems weaker? I know they are different but that's all I know. The reason for my question - if the coils are weaker, I would stick with standard plugs. Iridium plugs are neat but both Platinum and Iridium plugs are designed for the long haul in today's modern, high energy ignition systems. These metals, while not eroding as fast, offer more resistance than copper, steel or silver. I can't explain XSChris's experience with Iridium plugs but if it works he should stick with them. My experience, and those of others with older autos, has been just the opposite. In older, lower energy ignition systems, use of Platinum or Iridium plugs often results in a decrease in performance. I run Silver electrode plugs in my '90 Benz and have used them in single cylinder foreign scoots with good luck. Research done by Mercedes found that the modern precious metal narrow electrodes produce sparks that may be literally blown out at high rpms - when used in older, lower energy ignition systems.
 
different numbers is only longer or shorter electrodes... burns oil use shorter

Well, not exactly the entire story. On NGK plugs, the lower the number, the hotter the plug runs and, conversely, higher numbers run cooler. This all has to do with how fast a plug can dissipate heat. Yes, if your engine burns oil, a hotter plug will help but that is not the real reason to go to a hotter plug. If you run your engine hard, you may want to move one number cooler to prevent premature failure of the plug. If you don't work your engine very hard, you may move one number heat range to a hotter plug to better burn off combustion residue. An "R" in the number means the plug is a resistor type. The "eix" plugs are Iridium. There is even a "Laser Iridium" plug now. Lots of advances in plug technology over the years. Because autos no longer need frequent tune ups, plugs were designed to last longer and to maintain better performance during their lifetime to reduce pollution. Higher energy ignition systems overcome the increased resistance of precious metal electrodes. Older, lower energy ignition systems were not designed for the high resistance electrode plugs used in modern engines.

BTW, heat range numbers between manufacturers are not universal. Some use higher numbers for hotter plugs and the number used by one manufacturer may not be the same heat range as the same number used by another.
 
Sounding like Sweet 'n low or Splenda. Synthetic vs standard oil. All interesting, Drewpy, Chris and others use iridium iv'e read.

yep, that's what you do :thumbsup:

Thanks! Although would have thought that is something mentioned more rather than assumed. The plug terminals fit my car plug caps just right.
After some fine tuning of the points and static timing with a test light I then did test with plugs to see how they spark. Maybe I can attempt to post a vid if it works.

You can buy the new caps right from most any cycle center, I bet. Bought mine from a Yamaha dealer. Take one of yours to match. New will be 5 ohm, not the 10 ohm original but that's ok.

That leads to more minor questions since caps themselves ohms tested at 9600 and 8500 and believe that to be acceptable until new ones. I thought I read about the 5 vs 10 ohm debate also once, haha.
Coils for primary 4.1 and 4.3 Secondary at 8730 and 8820. I prefer closer to the 9500 and wondered about the argument of cold temp ohm test raising vs lowering resistance when testing.
 
I think this vid sucks and seems the framing rate actually skipped seeing the spark a couple times. I dont know what i'm mumbling about, "RF, LF, RF, LF, RF, LF" ha. Made the vid just for future reference and for myself.
The right cyl spark almost seemed weaker but cleaned the contacts (both brand new) off and was better.
Unwittingly here, you have a video with me talking to myself :doh:


 
Sounding like Sweet 'n low or Splenda. Synthetic vs standard oil. All interesting, Drewpy, Chris and others use iridium iv'e read.

They sure do, and that's fine, as I indicated. However, the fact remains that our older ignition systems were not designed for the higher energy requirements of the plugs mentioned. Will the newer plugs work - sure. Are they recommended by manufacturers - no, for the reasons stated. No snake oil. You pay your money and you make your choice.
 
IL tell you a secret about oil.

Motors that are oil clutch driven need a less slip oil so clutch bands dont slip... bull


If you let "better" automotive oil in your bike and only full wot if motors warm it will not slip clutch and be better for your motor.

even if you never tried... clutch 100$ vs top end 500$
 
another oil secret... You dont have to change your cars motor oil....

change oil filter spring and fall... without changing brands and thickness and you can go 500tho miles with a motor.. believe me of not dont really care
 
:umm: this multi-topic post is getting confusing.
. . .anyway as to my original "problem" and question I guess i got the answer that YES, remove the terminal from plugs and they WILL work and just fine at that!

The spark for both didn't seem blazing bright and right cyl seemed worse.

Thinking back to simple and basic is always good - I had been using that battery with a test light with ignition on and in 35 degree garage for some time - voltage probably at 10. The battery is rubbish, yes, rubbish, to begin with and an original from previous owner (which i will list what was wrong , missing, broken :mad: :banghead: :( on the thing for a completely new post sometime).

Also I simply cleaned light oily residue off the points (right side especially) and is much better also.
 
Make sure you have a good fully charged battery like at 12.5 volts A weak battery will give a poor weak spark, if any.
 
another oil secret... You dont have to change your cars motor oil....

change oil filter spring and fall... without changing brands and thickness and you can go 500tho miles with a motor.. believe me of not dont really care

are you pissed? :laugh:
 
:umm: this multi-topic post is getting confusing.
. . .anyway as to my original "problem" and question I guess i got the answer that YES, remove the terminal from plugs and they WILL work and just fine at that!

The spark for both didn't seem blazing bright and right cyl seemed worse.

Thinking back to simple and basic is always good - I had been using that battery with a test light with ignition on and in 35 degree garage for some time - voltage probably at 10. The battery is rubbish, yes, rubbish, to begin with and an original from previous owner (which i will list what was wrong , missing, broken :mad: :banghead: :( on the thing for a completely new post sometime).

Also I simply cleaned light oily residue off the points (right side especially) and is much better also.

I hope you got your answers then :wink2:
 
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