Stripped out Mirror holes

rugbywarrior89

rugbywarrior89

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Hello All, Just got a new 82 XS400 Heritage Special that the PO apparently ripped out the mirrors (no threads at all). I've been throwing around ideas about getting new ones and wanted to know what everyone else thought. Here is what I've been thinking:

1. Put some JB Weld around the threads and shove them in the best I can. Problem is if I break the mirror some day (I'm learning to ride so the chances are high), there will be no way to get them out.

2. Tap the hole for 12mm thread and try to find a 12mm CW to a 10mm CCW adapter for the right side. Don't know how likely I'll be to find that.

3. Get aftermarket mirrors that are DOT approved (for my driving test) that have larger threads than 10mm. Downside is that I will never be able to find mirrors specific to xs400 ever again.

I like option 2 but I'm not sure of the practicality of it. Any ideas are appreciated.
 
I haven't tried it but it might be worth it since you are willing to use JB-Weld. I know it is considered sacrilege by some, but for non-critical, non-stress type areas it is second only to "GOOP" and the "Handy-Man's Secret Weapon" (duct tape).

My idea would be to drill out the holes so they are even a little wider (so the JB-Weld can be thick enough to work. I would do my best to score the sides with something hard like the sharp pointy end of a file (so the JB can grip better).

Then (here is the untested part) I would wrap the threads on the mirror stalks with a layer of the thinnest clear plastic food wrap I could find. Or, maybe better still, a couple of wraps of plumber's teflon tape(I think the tape would prevent the JB-W from sticking to the mirror stalk and would allow you to thread it in and out later).

Then I would do your option #1 - make sure there is JB-W against the sides, all the way around (maybe use a toothpick as a miniature putty knife), then shove the stalks in and then pack JB-W all around. Try to position them exactly where you'd want them - just in case they become permanently attached. Make sure your bars are set where you will want them first as any adjustment to them later will require a mirror adjustment.

I would do one mirror at a time because JB-W hardens pretty fast, and in case the idea totally doesn't work.
 
Then (here is the untested part) I would wrap the threads on the mirror stalks with a layer of the thinnest clear plastic food wrap I could find. Or, maybe better still, a couple of wraps of plumber's teflon tape(I think the tape would prevent the JB-W from sticking to the mirror stalk and would allow you to thread it in and out later).
Click to expand...
I think I might just do that. Has anyone on here ever done anything like that before?

Magyver just shed a proud tear the moment you replied to that message.:thumbsup:
 
Dave is right of course about the proper way to do it.
However, sometimes people literaly have to choose between buying new mirrors (even if used) and buying a tank of gas.
And some like me, who can fortunately afford both, still enjoy the challenge of trying something first, then buying if necessary - with one caveat: never do anything that could not only fail but also jeopardize the "proper" fix.
If you drilled out a little, say to 11, and the JB-W idea didn't work, then you could still drill out the JB-W enroute to M-12'ing it. If giving the JB-W a chance to work meant drilling to 13, I would say no way.

After I sent the first "idea" (not a proven technique) I channeled MacGyver yet again. My plumber friend tells me that the new solders which have no lead are quite a bit harder than the old ones - yet still softer than steel. So, could one buff up the surfaces, coat with flux and then solder the stems in? They could still be removed by breaking the solder joint (likely would also break the stems though) and drilled out to M-12.
I'd definitely check with a plumber though. You need to heat the mass of the receptacle to get solder to stick, so you would need to tie wet rags around ALL adjacent metal so that the heat would stay localized only where you want it.
 
Here is a thought. Is there anything I could use to fill the hole completely that is strong enough to drill and tap in M10? Is JB or solder that strong? I'm not opposed to melting something into the holes. You could even drill tiny holes into the sides of the big hole for anchors.

With that in mind, I might even be able to fill the hole in using a MIG welder right? Just go around in circles with the bead until its filled up then redrill?
 
rugbywarrior89 said:
... With that in mind, I might even be able to fill the hole in using a MIG welder right? Just go around in circles with the bead until its filled up then redrill?
Click to expand...
Have we determined that the housing is steel and not aluminum. It would work with steel.
By suggesting solder, I didn't mean filling the hole with melted solder and then re-drilling, rather, prepping the male and female surfaces as one would a copper water line and the inside of a copper fitting, then heat the base of the female (fitting) part until the solder melted when touched against the male and flowed into the tiny space - thus making a very solid join.
 
I've used the jb weld method on a friends bike before, works pretty good, just can't get the mirror too tight and pull out the jbw threads
 
I'm suprised no one suggested helicoils. I had a similar problem and tried jb-weld and then drilling and tapping that all to no avail. I then went the helicoil route and that worked perfectly. Be aware that It's kind of hard to find that 1.25 (I believe) helicoil expecially if your looking for the left hand thread. To avoid that problem I bought cheap bike master mirrors (both with right hand thread) and chased the thread to the readily available 1.5 thread size.
 
Lou Ranger said:
Have we determined that the housing is steel and not aluminum. It would work with steel.
By suggesting solder, I didn't mean filling the hole with melted solder and then re-drilling, rather, prepping the male and female surfaces as one would a copper water line and the inside of a copper fitting, then heat the base of the female (fitting) part until the solder melted when touched against the male and flowed into the tiny space - thus making a very solid join.
Click to expand...

No I didn't even think about the metal:doh:

I knew what you meant concerning the solder, I was just brainstorming further.

Everyone has a lot of good ideas (and for such a seemingly easy problem). I think it just made my decision that much harder.lol

I will think about it and post how everything works out when I've finished. It may be a little while as I've got other stuff to fix on the bike. The PO obviously didn't maintain it terribly well. Thanks for all the help!!
 
I guess my original assumptions were that you didn't want to buy other mirrors and didn't want to spend money in general. Hence the MacGyver inspired ideas which involve materials already on hand in most garages.

If money were no object, then the best idea might be to find replacement mirror mounts at a bike graveyard or from someone on this Forum who has installed new bars & handlebar mirrors. There have been a few.
 
I guess my original assumptions were that you didn't want to buy other mirrors and didn't want to spend money in general. Hence the MacGyver inspired ideas which involve materials already on hand in most garages.
Click to expand...

That was the correct assumption. I'm trying to get this back on the road ASAP with as little money as possible. I've already sank about $120 on the bike overall and still have a ways to go. My wife is starting to give me the crazy eyes:mad:. Unfortunately, I'm only 24 and my garage is a bit sparse so I take projects like these as an excuse to buy things I will need later, like a M10 tap and a thing of JB Weld (or quicksteel). Not to mention Macgyver is my hero and it makes me feel more accomplished when I can do a quality job using a toothpick, pen tube, and a roll of yarn.:)

Also, I got to looking again, I think the PO drilled it out to more than 10mm, it looks more like 12 or 13 now. That might make a difference. I'm starting to think he got about 2 hours into a mod job and decided to call it finished. This bike is missing a lot of weird stuff like that.:banghead:
 
Well, if you can be confident of setting the mirror stalks in exactly the right positions to allow you to make minor mirror adjustments using the rotator ball and the other set screw ONLY, why not go and get the softest solder you can buy and simply solder them in there?

You will be able to break the join when the time comes, the evil eye is focused elsewhere andyou get around to buying all the stuff you ultimately want.
 

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