Sync now or idle later !!

[SlickRick]

Hi guys, hope all are getting their rides in, and PsuedoMonkey your healing quickly!

I need tech advice. I have be trying to sync & tune the carbs for days now. I have read the threads on how to do this but I still have procedural questions.
Okay, I have the A/F screws at 3 and have adj. from there. Here are the questions!
The sync screw(on top) is that to be tighten all the way in (That is what I was doing all this time and backing out for idle) or all the way out and backing in?
Here is what I saw on the Screw in and when ot was out. All the way in the two sides (butterflies) are pushed apart as far as the two will go. All the way out the two sides (adjusters left & right) are all the way together, they toch each other. There are two springs on this ( the top is the one you turn to screw with (presses directly on the left butterfly and below there is a spring for the right side of the butterfly.
I hope this is clearer than mud.

Last but not least, where do you set the idle knob (bottom) when you start to tune the carbs? All the way out or in or part way.

Okay there you have it Thanks I need a ride soon!

 

[drewpy]

not clear at all, I can see better in mud

are you using a vacuum gauge? its never been mentioned

all you are doing is letting both carb have the same amount of "flow"

ignore mix screws, ignore idle screws (unless its going to stall)

adjust the centre/front screw between the carbs till you get an even balance on the gauge

that's it!

it takes me longer to get the tank off the bike than balance the carbs.

 

[SlickRick]

Thanks Drewpy,

If what you say is true, I'am in serious trouble. I made a big long (20') manometer so I could kill switch fast. Even that did not work well. The ATF was shooting up the right side
fast. Regardless of many adjustments with the sync screw (in & out) no go. Took it off and tuned it by ear. Sounds better, idel, revs come down quickly, rpms around 13-14 idle. It all sounds good, got backfire stopped. My sync screw is almost turned all the way in and to get this running better I have had to turn the left F/A mix way back out and the right much less. I will test again today w/ manometer and test ride. But I feel I have a major problem. It can and has ran well before. Any check first ideas? thank for your time and effort.

 

[HoughMade]

Adjust the sync screw first by looking into the carbs and just barely opening the throttle so that a piece if thin wire just drags under the butterfly. Adjust so the wire drags the same amount on both sides. That will get you real close. Then you can hook everything up and adjust with the manometer from there. The screw should be about in the middle to start. Of course, if one cylinder is not firing, it will throw the sync off a bit because flow is affected by the heat of combustion and the velocity of burned fuel/air versus unburned.

 

[SlickRick]

Thanks HoughMade,

I will take the air cleaners off and rubber connecters. I guess I can use a feeler gauge for gaping. I'ii check for spark first.

Thanks again, let you know.

 

[drewpy]

make sure your valves are adjusted too along with the ignition timing if you have points.

that can throw your balance out too

 

[SlickRick]

Hi Guys,
Ok, this is where I got tonight. After some trying decided to take the carbs off. So I did and got the butterflys in sync but they are now both shut. I guess that should be a start.
Cleaned the carbs again, all the parts I could and looked at the diaphrams (good). Already adj. the valves sound good. Have spark(orange??) Have TCI. Tomorrow will tighten up the carbs to the inlet stubs and adj. F/A mix screws to about 2 1/2. Now I don't know if it will start or idle have to wait and see. I still have have the throttle screw off the sync connection to see what i need to do if and when it starts without it.
Hopefully will be able to use manometer.
Thanks for ALL the help you guys give us novices.

 

[SlickRick]

Hi guys,

Ok got bike to idle with choke in roughly 1200 rpms. was able to use manometer but found out I needed clamps on the vacuums because they were sucking air in and changing the balance. A/F mix might need to change a bit too. How dose one adj. the choke when tuning. I just get mine warm than push choke all the way in. Have the throttle in use to get the 1200 rpm. than manometer the carbs. Hope tomorrow it will be time to test all this tuning.

Thanks- results coming

 

[SlickRick]

Hi,

Well here is what i have up to this minute.
Only way it will start is with the choke pulled out on one not all the way and thats were it stays hot or cold. Here I have above rpms (14-15), but at least I can balance the manometer. Rpms on the throttle are bit slow at first, just a tad, The rest revs nice and rpms come down fast. I think I can ride like that, I do not understand the choke, pulled out all the way when cold, once in warm and all the way in warmed up?
Oh and I have not used the idle knob at bottom at all, it's not touching the sync part because I have the rpms higher than they should be.
So I know I am missing something, any more tips would be apreciated.

Thanks

 

[XSLeo]

With the bike warmed up push the enrichener, it's not a choke, all the way in. Now adjust the idle speed to get your idle speed where it should be. Now hook up the manometer, set sync screw so both sides are the same. Unhook the manometer.
All this should be done with the air mix screws set the same. Once you get the sync done then you can set the mix screws buy unplugging one vaccumm port, this kills one cylinder, adjust idle speed as low as you can. On the running cylinder adjust the mix screw in till it stumbles, now back out till it stumbles, set the mix screw 1/2 way between those two points.
Now plug the vaccum port, unplug the other, adjust the mix screw on the other carb the same way. Plug the ports.
Now set idle speed to 1200 rpm. Recheck sync.
Ride, be happy.
Leo

 

[SlickRick]

Thanks Leo, that is what I will be doing first thing tomorrow morning. I will start buy pulling out the enrichener all the way out cold and try to start there using throttle knob at bottom (this opens both butterflys at the same time. In the pass I had to unsync to get it running like that??? A/F screws will leave at 3 turns out. Hope to get it started with enrichener out (cold) push in one (warmer) all the in (operate temp). Get it idled at 1200 and follow rest of your directions.
Great, Let you know the results! Hope to be on the road soon.

 

[SlickRick]

Hi,

Got to the first manometer and got them even. lowered rpms (9-1000RPM). Just barely keep running. Tried the mix screws one cylinder at a time and did not seem to get to a stumbling point. I will have to start there because it feels like the sync maybe off and now I so not have the quick revs when twisting the throttle quickly and some backfire when revs come down. what do you think

Try,try again!
Thanks

 

[SlickRick]

Hi,
Got the bike nearly tuned, just a little slow on the start on revs and small backfire on the left side. Maybe a little A/F mix adj?
Thanks for all your help, I needed it.