timing - Advanced timing - differences

[overpl]

Hi,
I looked into manual again And I have there difference between advanced timing for all XS 400, and those on German market. Ignition Timing is the same: 10degrees/1200rpm,
but advanced timing is: 35degrees/7000rpm, and 39+/-2 degrees /5,500 rpm for germany.

What does it mean actually? Can I check it somehow and easily change it without harm to motorcycle? And may I changed it without 45HP red module (willem - still no package from you ).

 

[willem]

hm cr*p. Doesn't look like its coming, eh?

Don't know how to change it though.. Seems to me like that's just in that red module which I tried sending you, not something you can adjust

 

[overpl]

The angle in module? Well i don't know nothing about this stuff either:/ yea, it has been, what- 3 weeks already?:/ i wonder if there is some kind of way to check what happened:/ or make a complain in post office :/

 

[16VGTIDave]

Hi,
I looked into manual again And I have there difference between advanced timing for all XS 400, and those on German market. Ignition Timing is the same: 10degrees/1200rpm,
but advanced timing is: 35degrees/7000rpm, and 39+/-2 degrees /5,500 rpm for germany.

What does it mean actually? Can I check it somehow and easily change it without harm to motorcycle? And may I changed it without 45HP red module.

Yes, there are differences with the ignition TCI module on DOHC bikes. You want the German (Euro?) spec module, model #TID 12-07 made by Hitachi. I've found that it was also installed on Canadian bikes. Mine is Black. The module installed on US bikes (and other countries?) was a TID 12-08, also made by Hitachi, and it has less timing advance so it makes less power at higher RPM.

The testing procedure is detailed in the manual, so I won't repeat it here. You can change it simply by removing the old module and installing the "new" module, and it won't cause any harm. Though it may make your face sore from grinning when you can easily rev your engine to 10,000 RPM.

 

[overpl]

I want that now its going nuts at 7000-7600 and can't go further :/

So you are sayin that there are also difference between TID 12-07 and TID 12-08? And 07 is better?? I know that TID 12-07 is in 2 versons 12R and 12F - F is restricted and have blue label - R is non restricted with red label on it.

Kind regards!

 

[16VGTIDave]

7,600 RPM is getting to the top of where the needle in the carbs control the fuel, but below where the main jets operate. I had to raise the needles in my carbs 1 notch (moved the clip down) to get enough fuel and therefore RPM to get the RPM's high enough to be using the main jets. If you have non-stock air filters or mufflers, or dirty carbs, this may be the cause. There are plenty of posts here about carbs, cleaning carbs, cleaning carbs 5 times, replacing diaphragms, and jetting changes.

Yes, the TID 12-08 will make less power. The TID 12-07 12R module is the one you want.

 

[overpl]

Dave, I have my carbs clean as baby butt after whipe;] - also new jets (stock), filter is stock also.

By raising the needles - and moving clip down - I'm guessing you are talking about making higher float height - right?? If yes - what is your height now?

 

[16VGTIDave]

I said the same thing about my carbs. And I was very wrong! It took 5 or 6 cleanings, with the last being 12 hours in an ultrasonic cleaner, heated, with a mild acid cleaner, completely disassembled, to get my carbs working correctly. Just like a baby's butt, there is always more dirt...

No, I'm talking about the needle attached to the diaphragm. I have my needles 1 notch higher than stock. My float heights are currently set stock, with the fuel level 3mm below the body edge. As described in the manual, chapter 4.

 

[overpl]

Damn... looks like i will have to set them in a hard way;-)) I like my way to just measure the float height at disassembled carbs

I really don't know what I can clean there more.. they are shiny, with new jets - I don't see any dirt but if the consumption will not fall down after another float height settings - I'll probably give up and take them to specialist.

 

[16VGTIDave]

Setting the float height isn't guaranteed to set the fuel level. Manufacturing tolerances can have floats weighing different amounts and floating at different heights. Measuring the fuel level in the float bowl is precise. And it can be checked on the bench as well as on the bike. All that is needed is a length of clear tube, some gasoline, and a screwdriver. What could be easier AND more precise?

Shiny on the outside means nothing for our carbs. It is the small passages inside that have to be clean. To get them clean you will need a thin but stiff wire to probe through each passage, high pressure compressed air to blow out debris, a mild acid to dissolve corrosion (lemon juice, vinegar, household cleaner that removes water stains, etc), a pot and stove. The carbs MUST be completely disassembled, with the exception of removing the throttle shafts. The wire should be worked into each passage repeatedly, then use air to blow out any debris. Then work the wire from the other end of the passage and blow clear. Repeat for every passage. When done, simmer in cleaning solution for a few hours. Then repeat.

The simmering will clean areas that you can't get to with the wire. The more you do, the fewer problems you will have...

 

[overpl]

Yeah I know it seems to be easy maybe I'm affraid of doing it without a reason its just a thing that you must repeating that method until fuel level is right - and float height you do once but you are right.

I've cleaned passages and jets with carb cleaner (its cleaning under compression) - but someday maybe I will clean it better Now I'm looking for module from willem - but seems like post office stole it or lost it :/