Using The Kick Start Effectively

paulwlms

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Hello everyone,

I am new to this site and love motorcycles. In May of this year, I bought a 1977 xs400. It had 3800 miles on it and I bought it for $250. I put $400 in to get it running, and it runs great. However, I have never owned a bike with only a kick start before. I am having issues with starting the bike. I started it right up and rode it home from the repair shop with no problems. I parked it in my garage for 3 hours, and then I decided to take it for a spin before I went to work.
It started on the second kick, but when I let go of the throttle (thinking it would idle), it died. It started up again but died right away. Then I could not get it started again.
I did something next that I probably shouldn't have done. I put the gas lever on PRI for 2-3 seconds, then put it back to ON, and I opened up the choke.
When I kicked it again, gas started coming out the left side of the bike and dripping down the side. Every time I kicked it after that, gas poured out. Then I closed the choke. Gas kept coming out. After 10 minutes of trying, I gave up. I never did get it started. Someone told me that it sounds like I flooded it.
I have only been used to electric starts, so I am probably doing something wrong. I just don't want to go somewhere, and then be stuck for 30 minutes (or longer) trying to start the bike up again.
So my question is: Is there a technique that people can recommend that guarantees that my bike will start after only a few kicks? I know it's not the bike as it runs great. But starting it is hard for me and I am sure it is because of something I am doing wrong.

Thanks.
 

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If it is a kick only then it must be a 78. Post some picks so we can see. If gas is running out you will need to do some work on the carbs as it is most likely the float valves not sealing. Welcome to the forum. There are a bunch of good threads on carb cleaning and setup just do a search.
 
sounds like the kick starter and ur "technique" are working since you got the bike to start, just having an issue with your carbs being dirty since its dying and gas is leaking.

tale chris's advice and clean the carbs a few times and then change ur oil if you got any gas in it.

My carbs would dump fuel and i had idle issues until i got the carbs spotless.
 
Thank you for your comments. I will look into those issues. I thought I had figured out that it was a 1977. But if you are saying it's a 1978 because of it being a kick start only, then it must be a 1978.

By the way, is it possible to install an electric start on this bike? And have it not be too expensive?

Thanks
 
You have a 78 2-E. You can put an e-start in but you will need to find all the parts and wire it to make it work. There is a guy on here that has done it with the same bike as you.
 
Welcome! Yup sounds like float valve problems :)

If you're wondering about the technique of kickstarting a bike, just watch some videos on youtube ;)

also check out bcware's video thread here and my new owner's guide here
 
After I put my carbs back together a week or so ago, everything seemed fine...but the bike was sitting on the center stand as I was doing some other work on it.

I took it for a ride on Saturday and then pulled in the garage and put it on its side stand for the first time since the carbs were gone through...a couple minutes later, gas came pouring out the left carb (actually, the left air box). Off came the side covers, air boxes, H-pipe and carbs, I readjusted the float height to about 28mm from 25mm and adjusted the tab that keeps the floats from going too low; if the floats hang too low, they can get hung um and not float free. All is good now.

...in other words, if everything is adjusted correctly, gas should not pour out of the carb regardless whether the petcock is left open. A little seepage, yes; pouring out, no. I suspect that with surgically clean carbs and adjusted floats, it'll start every time.
 
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As for kick starting the youtube video is a good watch.Everything has to be in tune so it starts either 1st or 2cnd kick other wise it will wear you out.At lease me anyws LOL.I always hate having to kicl start the bike and I like the estart.Not much more advice for me to offer you got the other suggestions so good luck.:)
 
I second all of the advice above. Clean carbs are happy carbs. Also, get yourself a good pair of boots with sturdy soles, especially if you're kick-only. I've had my boots for about 3 weeks and have repaired them twice because the sole let go. Sorry to hijack, but is there something I'm doing wrong?
 
Thanks for all the comments everyone. Sounds like it's the carbs and the floats. I will give an update once it gets fixed.

I feel like I found a treasure when I found this bike for $250. I am glad I didn't pass it up thinking it's too good to be true. I saw the ad on Craigslist on a Wednesday, and it was Friday before I had time to go look at it. When I called the owner he said it was still available. I got to his place and he said he had a number of calls on it, but I was the only one that actually took the initiative to come down to look at it.

Good deal for me!

ONE MORE THING: I have a patch on the front right of my seat. I don't want to spend $175 to get the entire seat recovered. Is there a way to patch that one area for cheap? The rest of the seat is good.

Thanks.
 
Duck tape:thumbsup: If you have some Amish or Mennonites that do upholstery try there. I have a local one do a seat for me and it only cost about $60.
 
On the petcock if you have a PRI, ON, RES, you have a vacuum operated petcock. When in the ON or RES position fuel only flows when the engine is running.
The PRI or prime position fuel flows without the engine running. This position is used to insure your carbs are full of fuel. You can use this anytime you want with no fear of hurting anything. Once running it's best to turn it to ON or RES, that depends on the amount of fuel in the tank. On fuel flows until the level in the tank drops below the pick up for ON, at this point you turn to RES or reserve. This will run out the rest of the fuel in the tank.
I agree your problem right now is carb related. Dirt, crud or float adjustment is keeping the float valves open. You need to clean and inspect your carbs, correctly set the float height.
While in there clean and inspect the rest of the carb parts, pilot jets, needle jets, main jets, pilot passages, enrichener passages.
Leo
 
With a bit of artificial leather and a staple gun you can fix yourself a new seat cover. Just take your time and google some tips, it's not that hard. Duct tape holds it as well, but it will always be a temporary fix.

But if your time is more valuable, source it out to a local furniture upholstery place or someone else cheap (like chris said)
 
UPDATE: My mechanic fixed the problem (micro holes in the original floats. Gas got into them and they weren't floating), and now my bike runs great. I do have some issues with vibration which is common from what I have read about this bike. But if anyone has ideas on what to check and what steps to take to minimize the vibration, I would definitely welcome them. Also, I do have an album with updated pics of my bike. You can find it by searching for paulwlms. Any other comments are welcome. I am looking forward to many years of riding my 1978 xs400 2E.
 
Hey Paul. What kind of vibrations are you experiencing? Are they coming from any part of the bike specifically? What are your speedometer and tachometer reading at the time of vibration?
 
Just a general vibration of the entire bike. All the gauges read normal. At about 50mph and above, the vibration diminishes, but up until about 50, the vibration is very noticeable. It's nothing that's uncomfortable, but I just want to see if I can get the vibration to diminish. I believe that the original 1978 tires are still on it, but since it was stored inside a guys basement for 24 years, the rubber is good.
 
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