What am I getting into?

[bcware]

My kick-start only:

Key to middle dot on ignition.
In neutral? Kill switch?
Pull choke all the way out.
Float bowls filled with fuel? Bike warm/known to start easy? Petcock to 'on.' (uses vacuum)
For diagnosing use prime (no vacuum required, so fuel just flows in until floats close the float valve)
Kick/start

Runs for a few seconds and shuts off? Not getting enough fuel!

 

[staycryptic]

That's what I figured- running out of fuel.

I'm not too sure what the settings on the petcock are for, or whether they're at that setting when the tab is over the letters or opposite that.

 

[bcware]

The push tab thing on the petcock goes over the letters of the setting you are on; the tab itself is the "arrow" if you will (not opposite). Hm, like the hands of a clock. Easiest way to figure this out for certain? Remove the gas tank fuel line. If set to "on" or "off" fuel will not flow. If set to prime fuel pees out until none is left.

 

[staycryptic]

THAT'S what I needed to know! Thanks for clarifying, dude...

I feel like driving back to the garage to try it again with everything set the correct way.

Eh, that's what lunch breaks are for.

 

[staycryptic]

And its 'On', 'Res', and what?

I was using the picture in this thread as reference.

 

[bcware]

I know what its like to want to run back out and keep trying Odds are your pilot circuit is just dirty. The insides of my carbs looked quite clean initially, but once I removed the emulsion tubes and all the jets there was black gunk clogging a lot of the holes and air passages.

You'll need several different sizes of flat bladed screw drivers, a few phillips head screwdrivers, a clean working surface, carb cleaner, a socket set, a brass brush and pipe cleaners are useful, and compressed air.

 

[bcware]

I am not sure if you have a vacuum type petcock, but it looks like you don't because I do not see a prime position. Reserve accesses the bottom of the fuel tank for when you are low on fuel. A non-vacuum type is on or off, but a vacuum type probably has a prime position in which it acts like a non-vacuum type by flowing all the time.

If you do have a vacuum type petcock there will be a second small hose behind the fuel petcock going to a vacuum source (either the air intake or carb boot is most likely).

 

[staycryptic]

I've got plenty of working space and tools so a carb rebuild is in the future.

And yep, it does have a second hose going over to the other carb.

 

[bcware]

Ok, then it's definitely a vacuum type. From the photo I cannot see what is under the position it is currently set to. When I had a lot of trouble starting I would just leave it on prime.

 

[staycryptic]

Cool, ill give it a shot tomorrow.

Edit- Ran over before work to throw it on the charger. Hopefully, I'll come home to a strong battery.

Didnt do anything else except grab a quick shot of it:

Oh, and it's not on- That's the flourescent workbench lamps hitting the reflectors.

 

[staycryptic]

Okie dokie, just got home from a quick stop at the garage. Here's what I found:

The battery charger was finished, and the battery showed a strong charge. Horn was loud and lights were bright, good.

I decided to try to start it with the push button.

It turns over,




and turns over,



and turns over.

Quick shot of starting fluid into the carbs, fires then runs for a few seconds.

Here's what I got:
Petcock on PRI. Choke out.
Checked the line going to the carb. Plenty of fuel dumping in.
Pulled the plugs. Theyre wet.

So, Im figuring it's getting fuel because the plugs are wet. So, its making its way into the cylinders. Also, Im thinking its getting spark because it DOES run when the ether is shot into the carbs.

So, Im thinking its a' time for rebuilding the carbs.

Thoughts?

 

[bcware]

Carbs are not delivering the goods. Tear 'em apart I'll make a video or something of a rebuild procedure at some point. I open mine once a week; ha!

 

[HoughMade]

Just take 'em apart and clean them. Don't buy a kit to "rebuild" unless you have to. Clean, clean, clean.

 

[bcware]

I agree with avoiding a kit unless you are certain you need to replace something. I had to jet because of aftermarket "upgrades," but older carbs have few parts that wear out appreciably.

Don't disturb or remove the float bowl gasket if you can avoid it; it could rip apart, but it might work perfectly well if left alone despite being old. On the other hand it might be totally fine to remove it. Boiling or submerging my carbs was also not really necessary; compressed air and carb cleaner would have been fine. Use brass brushes if you need to scrub or poke through holes. Most hardware stores I checked seemed to constantly be sold out of brass brushes, but walmart always had them.

Being overly aggressive with my cleaning has probably done some harm. Right now I suspect I have an air leak in the carbs. I'm the type to dive right in and figure things out as I go; sometimes you miss things like hidden rubber parts in the butterfly valves. Some ether or propane should help find the leak when I get around to it.

 

[staycryptic]

Yeah, I'm probably going to tear them off this week. I wont order a rebuild kit unless I see something that was damaged.

There's GOT to be shitty fuel sitting in the passageway just clogging things up. I'll keep a few old guitar strings on hand for poking.

I'll take some photos when I do clean them.

 

[ahale2772]

make sure you pull the emultion tubes, they easily get looked over and I found one of mine clogged

 

[staycryptic]

Okay, where are the emulsion tubes?

 

[ahale2772]

right above the main jet, if you pull the jet and the slider/ needle assembely it pushes through the top side, tons of little holes there that are perfect for a piece of rust.

 

[staycryptic]

Gotcha. I'll definitely check it out.

 

[OliverB]

While the carbs are off, I would replace the o-rings at the base of the idle mix screws. If they are deformed, hardened or broken, they will allow air to be sucked in and mess up your idle. A cheap and easy fix. I bought the screw/o-ring set from Mikesxs.