What just happened, one cylinder?

So if I replace the entire head and its internals(valves etc.), + the piston + clean out the crank replace gaskets and seals should I be fairley set minus timing issues and fine tuning.
It would seem reasonable to assume that if you replaced every part that was cracked, chipped, crumbled or scoured; and if you could be 100% sure that you could remove every bit of detritus, then you'd have a rebuilt engine good to go.

I don't know enough to say if this is possible or worthwhile though. I suppose anything is possible, but if it involved dozens of hours and parts that add up to more $$ than another bike with good engine parts, then it might not be worth it even if you value your time at zero. But time away from that cute little guy of yours might be costly.

And what does Drewpy mean by "too risky"? Lousy odds that you can find all the detritus? Too many hours spent with no guarantee it will work again? A safety issue even after getting it split and then reconnected?

In the good old days when everything was made of iron (and I walked up hill through 3' of snow to-AND-from school) I remember folks having lumps of magnet in the oil pan to collect all the detritus. But now, much of it will be made of aluminum and, I imagine, will keep circulating and doing damage if you don't get it all.

Be patient, look for a cheap replacement engine while waiting for some real expertise to chime in, and remain optimistic. :thumbsup:
 
I'm no engine builder, but it seems to me that searching for a good used replacement would be the way to go. Hell, I bet you could find a complete bike for the money you would spend on your current engine.
 
I think I'm beginning to understand the severity of how much "detritus" is inside the engine and crankcase. Still pondering then, thanks again for the advice.
 
I say open her up, and see what's inside. It's not like it's worth a ton of money together, and a little investigation will at least teach you what the inside of the engine looks like. Remember dissection in biology? I bet you never dissected anything as cool as a 4-stroke motor...
 
I love that word! Detritus.

Yes, the holed piston is a big deal and you'll have to be sure you've removed all your bit down below.

That being said I think there are more than a few tutorials on the forum about how to get that far inside the engine, and as long as you have the patience, you can get in there, clean it out, and re-assemble. After all a human put it together once, so a human can put it together again.

hope I'm not giving bad advice.

Drewcifer
 
I love that word! Detritus...
The Oxford Dic. (the kind of English that obviously routinely trips off Drewpy's tongue) says it's material produced by erosion. It comes from Latin detritus (from deterere - to "wear away").
I think we can agree with Drewpy that an exploding piston and its immediate aftermath could certainly be considered an extreme form of erosion.
... After all a human put it together once, so a human can put it together again... Drewcifer
Isn't it possible though that some or all of the humans, who put these things together back in the late '70s, had been bitten by radioactive spiders?
 
funny I thought that was a great word too but when I looked up the definition i got something along these lines. "Detritus is non-living particulate organic material (as opposed to dissolved organic material). It typically includes the bodies or fragments of dead organisms as well as fecal material. " So i thought you were saying I needed to get all that shit out of the engine, but in a nice way. O btw I am going to pick up a "new" engine tom morning.:thumbsup:
 
Got the new engine Friday, gonna try to find the time to work on it this week. Unfortunaltey school starts and I have a full load of classes. Not to mention I want to paint the engine but its covered in all this oily detritus..:shrug: well any tips on things to pay close attention to on preparing to install the new unit. it doesn't come with any electrical parts or carbs so those will all be the old units'.I will make sure carb are cleaned of all metal detritus, and any other parts that go back on as well. I really want to paint my frame while the motors off so it may take a little time since I have a lot I want to do.:D
 
Can now confirm categorically that the absolute best engine cleaner, with no residue is being outdoors and using gasoline. Over a large oil change tub to catch the spill off.

It will blow your mind.

Drewcifer
 
Can now confirm categorically that the absolute best engine cleaner, with no residue is being outdoors and using gasoline. Over a large oil change tub to catch the spill off.

It will blow your mind.

Drewcifer

I've used Kerosene. It's safer than using gasoline.
 
Sorry? I couldn't hear you over the roaring fire outside...

No, really, Kerosene (Diesel) is no longer commonly available at gas stations in Los Angeles. It's hard to find.
 
So having a slight issue putting the rotor back on aligned with the woodruff key. One of those rollers falls out each time I try to get it aligned, and even when it doesn't fall out the rotor srill wont go on. Any advice, I'm gonna give it another shot in the morning.
 
Ok engine is almost completeley put together, the new engine was missing electronices and a few other tidbits but so far so good, its in mounted and now I have to figure a way to get the chain back on without breaking it I would rather keep i together. Any one now if i can just loosen the tensioner then slide on the front cog then re tighten it? I just thought about that way while in class. O well if no response then I'l try it tom after class. Thanks again for all the help guys this thread may soon come to an end.
 
... now I have to figure a way to get the chain back on without breaking it I would rather keep i together. Any one now if i can just loosen the tensioner then slide on the front cog then re tighten it? I just thought about that way while in class. O well if no response then I'l try it tom after class. Thanks again for all the help guys this thread may soon come to an end.
Not sure I understand.
If by front cog you mean the front sprocket, then the answer is likely yes - as you would essentially be doing the same thing I did when I replaced the front sprocket with a slightly larger one and had to loosen the chain in order to install it. Assuming: your chain is still around the rear wheel sprocket?
 
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