Which line is the RF mark ?

[Philodoxo]

Hi

I'm trying to set my ignition, after having changed the cylinder top.

BUT which line is the RF mark ??? There are 3 (4) lines. The RT line is pretty easy to guess, but I can't figure out, which one of the two lines i have marked B and C is the RF line, that marks the opening ?

Or perhaps they are surposed to be open between B and C ?

Can anyone help me ? My Haynes manual does not show me.

 

[xschris]

C would be right fire.

 

[drewpy]

C for me too.

easy to confirm with a strobe light.

let in some tippex fluid and wipe away the excess will give you a nice easy line to view

 

[bcware]

Hayne's describes which line it is in text. Read the entire chapter before beginning any job; often information is scattered throughout.

 

[Philodoxo]

Thank you for the help.

Was It a mistake to reuse the "old" camshaft, when i replaced the cylinder head and the camshaft cover ?

I can't turn the ignition far enough clockwise, to make the contact breaker go apart at the LF mark. I only need 2-4 degrees more, but can't get there. And the contact brekaer plate are not supposed to be turned that much.

Are the camshafts different ?

Cylinderhead and cover are from a 4G5-engine, and rest engine is a 2A2. Please don't write, that those parts can never be put together.....


Must be blind - can't find that desciption i chapter 3 - but I'm convinced you're right, bcware. The Haynes manual will be my night-table book

 

[drewpy]

camshafts are interchangeable. there was a smaller HP one for the German market but is the amount of lift not anything else.

there is not a lot of manoeuvring room with timing, so you need it spot on.

I used a dwell meter to set the dwell angle (thus gap) always aim for the smaller gap as this gives the coils longer to soak up the volts before discharging.

 

[jayel]

there is usually a range of points gap given, say .012 to .016, the gap can change the timing itself... giving you more or less adjustment on the timing backing plate, it can be a compromise to get everything lined up

 

[Philodoxo]

Hi guys
Thank you very much for the answers and advise. Unfortunately i'm to stupid to make it work.

On this photo you can see the ignition-plate is turned as much clockwise as possible

And the "helpers" for turning the plate tells me it is not supposed to be turned that far

Still the LF-mark spot on, they are still closed

The contact breakers do not come apart until I turn it to the LT-mark.

Does this mean, that i have turned chain one tooth on the sprocket, when i put it together again - although I would swear on my mothers grave to come, that I replaced it exactly the same places. I even took photos to be sure, how the camshaft should be, when the LF-mark was spot on, and I used the descprition in Haynes. But there is a slack on the chain.....

I'm really sorry, that I keep wasting your precious time on my questions.... but i really appreciate it.

 

[drewpy]

I would suggest your point's heals are worn beyond adjustment

copy points are sometimes out too

 

[Philodoxo]

But of cause - that sounds worth trying out. Thanx!

 

[xschris]

Your cam lobe that your points ride on could be worn round not opening and closing the points correct. I also notice you are missing the oil wick that keeps the lobe from wearing out, you need that

 

[Philodoxo]

I don't think the cam is that worn - it ran very well, before I took it apart - because of a crack in the cylinderhead.

Actually it's also the same points.... they also worked fine before chancing the cylinderhead....... and they open enough ... just much too late.

But I take it, that it can't be because I have put the chain one tooth to late on the sprocket ??? Cant I check that in any way ? Like I wrote - i used Haynes guide, but the chain had some slack.

Yes - I have the oil wick, and will put it on again

 

[Philodoxo]

Better get back to Haynes..... Thanks for trying to help me.

 

[bcware]

Try adjusting the points instead of the entire unit. The way I "start" adjusting the timing is by leaving the crank on LF, and setting the gap on the left point. From there I rotate the timing to fine tune it and make them open at the right time.

In other words, you set the crank on LF, close (it should be JUST open actually) the left point, and then adjust the left side timing until the left point opens on LF. You'll have to turn the engine over and check everything, but this worked for me when they were way out of whack.

 

[Philodoxo]

Thanks bcware.
I just done that. It move the ignition-point a little non-clockwise, but fra from enough. With the ignitionplate turned as much clockwise as possible, it opens between the LF and the LT-marks.

Ordered new contact breaker points, but I dought it will help enough ??

To check if the cam-chain is put on one tooth to soon - can I check when valves open ? Is there a mark, where the exhaust-valve should start to open ?

 

[bcware]

The mark for the cam timing is on the cam gear itself (hidden by the valve cover) OR on the end of the cam that the points attach to. The points would have to be removed to see the "pip." You'd also have to pull the headers AND the carbs in order to get a good look at the valves. You can see valves open through the spark plug hole, but it is very difficult to look in there and see them when they are closed. Anyway, this seems like a crappy way to check. I'd ideally want to pull off the valve cover and check that way. You can also check the tensioner at the same time. This is a much bigger job, but can be done with the motor in the frame.

 

[Drewcifer]

Get it rolled around to where TDC is on the left cyl, and you want a piece of plastic or cellophane, or a dollar bill, to be pinched in the points. I used cellophane from some chocolate covered graham crackers because that is what mechanics do. Ahem.

Pinch the cellophane and roll the crank to the F mark line as you tug ever so slightly on the cellophane. Correctly timed, the points will open over the F line (not the F, the line immediately to it's right!) and the cellophane will be released. This is simple, power off, physical timing.

You can use the same method on the right.

now if you have a simple test light, you can use the youtube method to get the light to appear when the line is crossed. Look it up, it's easy...

What I found harder was to trust the indication of the timing wheel marks as a whole. Advanced, my bike started aggressively and I loved it, but it would go out of adjustment much quicker. Retarded it idled weird and acted annoying. So putting it back to where I started pretty much solved it.

Also found that oily wires could cause shorts in there. The plates aren't supposed to touch each other, so keep em isolated. A test light will verify this fact.

 

[Philodoxo]

Thanks for all the advice. But I'm giving up.

Bought new points, all though the old one worked fine before I took the engine apart. It didn't move the opening point just a little bit. Still not opening before the LT-mark, and the ignition-plate is turned as much clockwise as possible.

Fuck - must learn not to mess with mechanics

But thanks You guys for all the advice.

 

[bcware]

Are you using a light bulb or something to test the timing? Did you loosen a point and manually open it without just rotating the entire unit?

 

[Philodoxo]

Yes and yes. Can't get to to open early enough.

Will try to move the cam-chain one tooth to see, if that helps. Otherwise it's the local mechanic :-(