-
Enjoy XS400.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS400.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Winterizing
- Thread starter zonk39
- Start date
xs400newbie
XS400 Enthusiast
Disconnect the battery and put it on a tender. These small batteries typically don't like getting discharged as it will significantly reduce the life span. Add a little fuel stabilizer, especially if the gas in your area has ethanol in it, and let it run for a bit to get it into the carbs.
ShaqX7
XS400 Member
Put in fresh new oil and preferentially a new filter as well. The normal amount will do, and you will be ready when the season starts.
Definitely change the oil with fresh. Old oil will be contaminated, acidic, and corrosive from running it. You can add a bit of oil in spark plug holes and turn engine by hand.
Top off fuel or completely drain fuel and slosh around some 2-stroke oil with a little gas to coat the tank, leave cap open awhile to let the gas evaporate. (even better keep the tank indoors, if not the bike)
You can use a stabilizer and run the bike a short while if leaving tank topped off. I think either way of doing it I would drain the carb bowls.
I stuff the airbox inlets with a shop rag to prevent moisture from getting in.
Keep the bike on the centerstand and something (layers of cardboard) under front wheel and keep tire pressure at max. Also rotate the tire every few weeks to prevent a flat spot. You can also wrap the tire itself with garbage bag, which some do but I don't bother and need a new rear tire in spring anyway.
Cover the mufflers with a plastic bread bag or something, and rubberband.
Clean the bike and use wd-40 wiped on as many bolts and engine surface that you can reach for a protective coating.
Battery out, of course. Keep it inside and charged.
Top off fuel or completely drain fuel and slosh around some 2-stroke oil with a little gas to coat the tank, leave cap open awhile to let the gas evaporate. (even better keep the tank indoors, if not the bike)
You can use a stabilizer and run the bike a short while if leaving tank topped off. I think either way of doing it I would drain the carb bowls.
I stuff the airbox inlets with a shop rag to prevent moisture from getting in.
Keep the bike on the centerstand and something (layers of cardboard) under front wheel and keep tire pressure at max. Also rotate the tire every few weeks to prevent a flat spot. You can also wrap the tire itself with garbage bag, which some do but I don't bother and need a new rear tire in spring anyway.
Cover the mufflers with a plastic bread bag or something, and rubberband.
Clean the bike and use wd-40 wiped on as many bolts and engine surface that you can reach for a protective coating.
Battery out, of course. Keep it inside and charged.
Tombo
XS400 Addict
I am truly blown away at the dedication that many of you have! If I had to put my bikes into hibernation every winter, I'd lose my shit. I guess if I had to do it, I'd opt to spend a beer or two with my bike down in the garage once a week!
A Yamaha dealer I visited in Ohio last year recommended using the green coloured stabilizer made particularly for winterizing marine engines which, according to him, have added condensation and ethanol concerns. I don't know if this was just a ploy to sell a slightly more expensive version of the same exact product (the cynic would say that green dye costs more than red dye), however, I noticed a couple of different companies had the product and I went with the pitch.
I also used SHELL 91 octane - which up here does NOT have any ethanol. I had no problems or complaints - the sr250 started right up this March as if it had only sat overnight.
I did siphon the old gas with the stabilizer out of the bike and into my car's nearly full tank and replaced it with fresh gas before going anywhere the first day. Why take the chance?
I also used SHELL 91 octane - which up here does NOT have any ethanol. I had no problems or complaints - the sr250 started right up this March as if it had only sat overnight.
I did siphon the old gas with the stabilizer out of the bike and into my car's nearly full tank and replaced it with fresh gas before going anywhere the first day. Why take the chance?
My winterizing involves:
- Thorough cleaning, wax, rubber/vinyl protectant
- Oil change with new filter
- fill up with decent gas, then I put both Seafoam and some 2 stroke oil in it. I run that into the carbs and run the engine, then shut off the fuel at the petcock and let the carbs run dry. I DO NOT run the engine with this in the spring. I drain the tank before starting and dump the 3.5+ gallons in my truck's tank with 20 other gallons of gas.
- I remove the drain plugs and drain the bowls.
- I remove the plugs and spray storage oil fogger in the cylinders.
- I clean and lubricate the chain
- I lubricate the cables
- I put a few extra pounds of air in the tires (1 or 2 over "two-up")
- I roll it into the corner of the garage, out the cover on and hook the smart charger up to the battery. I have never disconnected the battery, but there's no harm in that.
- Thorough cleaning, wax, rubber/vinyl protectant
- Oil change with new filter
- fill up with decent gas, then I put both Seafoam and some 2 stroke oil in it. I run that into the carbs and run the engine, then shut off the fuel at the petcock and let the carbs run dry. I DO NOT run the engine with this in the spring. I drain the tank before starting and dump the 3.5+ gallons in my truck's tank with 20 other gallons of gas.
- I remove the drain plugs and drain the bowls.
- I remove the plugs and spray storage oil fogger in the cylinders.
- I clean and lubricate the chain
- I lubricate the cables
- I put a few extra pounds of air in the tires (1 or 2 over "two-up")
- I roll it into the corner of the garage, out the cover on and hook the smart charger up to the battery. I have never disconnected the battery, but there's no harm in that.
I use some scrap pieces of Ty-Par (one way breathable membrane used in home construction) to cover the muffler openings and the air box inlets (or pod filters). This material will allow moisture to exit but not enter the engine. With some oil added to the cylinders, there won't be any problems with rust in the cylinders.
Dave
Dave
i put an electric oil heater under mine and it sleeps under a blanket too.
drain off the carbs unless you like cleaning them in spring
drain off the carbs unless you like cleaning them in spring
Every few weeks I kick them over to keep things from sticking.
