Another Dreaded LED Turn signal Thread

[Ruined1]

Ok so I ordered and installed this all in one light kit:

http://www.kapscomoto.com/product_p/tl-gj-022-1m.htm

Of course I removed my oem tail light and rear turn signals. Now I face that same problem where my turn signals (and the respective indicator lamp) stay on when applied and do not flash. I tried adding in 1k, 10k, and 100k 1/4watt resistors to change resistance (because I had them on hand) nothing changed my issue.

For an example, the rear light turn signal has 2.88 resistance when off and zeroes out when turned on... Do I need to compensate and cause 2.88 resistance in-line for when it is turned on? Does the resistance needed get affected by all points at once ? (If I get the right turn signal to blink with appropriate resistance, will the left one too? or is it a separate application?)

Any help is appreciated.

 

[frwinks]

I used a Tridon EP34 flasher relay, switched the wires in the plug to match the relay prongs and called it dun
Throwing resistors or dummy bulbs in the mix defeats the purpose of LEDs IMO

 

[bcware]

I think your resistors are too small. I used two 10 ohm 10 watt resistors in parallel per side in the rear only to fix this problem (4 signals total, though). My signals are mini, but use bulbs. The stock bulbs are like 27 watts each, and the mini signals have very small bulbs. If running these is parallel doesn't work a single one probably will. You reduce resistance when they are wired in parallel.

Alternatively, if you can do the math, you could wire your existing resistors in series until you reach the correct result.

 

[Charles]

I'd get a new flasher relay specifically for LEDs. They require less resistance to work properly.

 

[bcware]

Are there any flashers that are plug and play? I tried to find some at several auto parts stores and nothing had the same prongs.

 

[Ruined1]

I picked up two 10ohm 10watt resistors, honestly I did that before I read the replies

I'm going to try one, then both on a single signal tomorrow and see what kind of results I get...

@frwinks I'm only doing it for the turn signals and honestly I dont even care for them other than wanting to pass inspection, so adding resistance to the LEDs for signals doesn't really defeat any purposes I had for purchasing the unit.

I just can't wait until i do the front lights too and end up doing this fun stuff all over again

Will post results.

 

[OliverB]

I used a Tridon EP34 flasher relay, switched the wires in the plug to match the relay prongs and called it dun
Throwing resistors or dummy bulbs in the mix defeats the purpose of LEDs IMO

So, after switching a couple wires, this unit (Tridon EP34 flasher relay) works with front and rear LED bulbs? If so, this would be the answer many folks are looking for. May not be exactly plug-n-play but pretty simple. Do you have a wiring sketch?

 

[bcware]

Yes, or photos!

 

[frwinks]

I'll take some pics tonight. I don't have the bike with me today...too cold and rainy in southern Ontario today

 

[Ruined1]

Simply spliced in two 10 ohm 10 watt resistors and the lights..... THEY BLINK

 

[bcware]

Just 1 on each side in the rear?

 

[XSLeo]

Most parts stores have electronic flashers that are not load sensitive. They are two prong flashers. They will plug right into the stock flasher socket. Just besure it plugs ito the brown and brown/white wires of the socket.
On the nonselfcanceling unit the third wire was just a ground. On the selfcanceling unit bikes the third wire was green/yellow I think, something like that and went to the canceler unit. Useing the two prong flasher will delete the self canceler. A good idea IMHO. The self canceler will cancel whenever it wants. This can get you hurt.
I use the www.superbrightleds.com LF1-S-flat flasher. It has short leads that are in a two prong plastic plug. Just remove the wires from the plastic. This leaves a flat blade connector on each wire, they plug right into the flasher socket, just use the brown and Brown/white wires.
Here's a pic. oops, this is the pin version. You see it has a grey and black wire. The one you get may have red and black wires. The black wire goes to the brown/white wire the grey or red goes to the brown wire.
This flasher will flash just one LED bulb or up to 150 watts of bulbs. It flashes at 80 per minute. Cost $8.95. Only thing is it don't like being close to a high output coil, makes it flash funny. Keep it a foot or so away and your golden.
Leo

 

[Chev59_99]

Just so you know blinkers that say on can get you killed also.I had my son on bike and forgot right blinker was on ,car at stop sign thought I was turning right and pulled out just about taking us both out.I was really pissed at the guy until I seen my blinker on and my lack of attention.For one I like self cancel blinkers.

 

[Ruined1]

Two 10ohm 10watt resistors per light, totaling 4 resistors that only cost me 4.64 (2.32 a set 1.16 per resistor) from radioshack. That might be a little pricey compared to online bulk rates... but for the instant convenience of satisfaction I will not complain. No issues so far.

Off Topic:

I felt stupid when I asked the guy at radioshack which side of the resistor was positive and which was negative... had light emitting diode's on the brain...

 

[bcware]

Just so you know blinkers that say on can get you killed also.I had my son on bike and forgot right blinker was on ,car at stop sign thought I was turning right and pulled out just about taking us both out.I was really pissed at the guy until I seen my blinker on and my lack of attention.For one I like self cancel blinkers.

I think the main argument against them is that they do not work 100% of the time as intended. While none of my motorcycles have this feature, my car does. On everything I drive/ride I cancel the signal manually every time. It has become reflexive to the point where I hit the cancel button every time I turn at an intersection regardless of whether I actually activated the signal in the first place (i.e. sometimes I do not signal when there is no competing traffic). For me it boils down to the fact that I like a bit more certainty and control, but the auto cancelers may be a better solution for some people.

As far as the original topic goes: would any l.e.d. flasher work? I noticed that different flashers have the prongs labeled differently. i.e. some have a "B," "X," or "L" on them. Do these letters hold any significance? Searching for information on this has proven to be difficult in the past.

 

[jayel]

B = battery/power, X = ground, L = load get rid of the canceller and wire in a piezo buzzer that beeps with the turn signal $3.59
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102817
of course you have to mount it where you can hear it

 

[frwinks]

on my '82 the wires go somefin like dis:
brown to 49 (+)
brown white to 49a (load)
yellow green to 31 (ground) this is the old feed to the self killing feature which is now grounded on the frame

 

[rficken42]

ok so i have led front and rear turn signals on my 1980 bike. will the Tridon EP34 flasher relay work for this application? i really dont wanna mess around with resistors.

 

[bcware]

He said EP 34, but the photo shows an EP 36. From what I understand you're going to have to mess around with something no matter what. Even the EP 36 is not plug and play, the terminals need to be switched around from what I understand.

 

[rficken42]

what is required for the terminals to get them to work?