metal rescue : opinions thoughts or comments?

[lowpunk]

I swear by vinegar these days. I am repeatedly amazed at how well it works. I had a fairly rust tank and filled it up, came back the next day and there was a HUGE improvement. I shook it a little but just added more to top off what had evaporated. Came back the next and it was just about clean. I topped it off again just to really get it. One more day and then rinsed heavily with water and dried really really good. Final rinse with acetone and then a tank sealer. The tank sealer probably wasn't necessary but i welded a little on it so i just wanted a little insurance. Grand total in vinegar was $8.25 and still have about a quarter gallon left to do bits and pieces. I've done a lot of parts for my xs400, BSA and Ford Model A. The more rust the more time it should sit but it does a stellar job!!!!

Its cheap, readily available, pretty clean and easy to deal with(not harsh like acids or other heavy chemicals) and does a amazing job. I strongly encourage people to try this. I was totally skeptical when i heard about it but it really works.

 

[OnePhate]

I've plugged metal rescue here several times.

 

[regvenne]

Go with kreem tank seal kit worked great for me. I used Metal Rescue to dissolve the rust, then clean it with diluted degreaser and then acetone for quick dry and leftover residue.

 

[XSLeo]

I'mnot so sure about the Kreem coating. From a lot of what I've read it won't hold up well with the ethanol they put in gas. I've heard the POR works better.
Leo

 

[regvenne]

Once you used metal rescue, and you find no leaks and the metal isn't to thin, it would not be necessary to use Kreem or POR. Just a thought.

 

[branson]

Flash rust is an issue. Also welcome aboard.

 

[regvenne]

Thanks,

Acetone is great for eliminating moisture, and it evaporates very quickly.
Give it enough time to and fuel back in the tank, keep it full, no rust.

PORT and Kreem both include it in there kits.

 

[branson]

Well id rather ride mine then keep it full. I don't know if kreem or por or something else works best but I wouldn't be caught dead without a sealant of some kind. To each his own.

 

[Maxim-umm]

I used MEK and drywall screws to clean out my tank. P/O used kreme coating inside and it was flaking off really bad. Didn't notice until I cleaned my carbs to find flakes and gum from the coating. Afterward I used redkote in my tank. It's been 3 years and it's still holding strong. No signs of flaking, peeling or bubbling at all.

 

[branson]

After I removed rust balls from my carbs I tore my tank off cut it open and sand balsted the bejesus out of it. Redcoat hasn't given me any issues with flaking or bubbling although this winter I had a fuel leak and didn't notice it. I've got a few pinprick sized rust spots from six months of abuse. I'm not even gonna worry about it. No bubbles. No flakes no "significant" rust. No worries. My method was extreme. But it worked. My bike looked like it was an archeological find when I got it and now its a spiffy lil mochine. Also the reason it rusted as bad as it did the first time was because I used vinnegar to derust 30 years of rust. It worked although it took me a month and four batches of vinnegar. Left it alone for one month with a full tank and it was rusted so bad it look like my ol 77 ford,s tank. Full not full not gonna keep it from rusting without a barrier. I am very pro-tection (pardon the pun) because I don't like redoing the same job because I didn't do it right the first time. Anyhow I'm not gonna preach/nag/rant or whatever else anyone wants to call it any further. After all whatever anyone wants to do with their cycle is their choice until they become a hazard to someone else. Ride well and remember to keep the rubber side down